Lets Talk Grounding... Especially for the WINCH!

[Hondasxs]

Lets talk winch grounding for your winch.

First, I am no expert. I am self taught in regards to 12v systems. Over the past few years I have learned so much about 12v systems and I hate seeing so many people wire up their machines and have issues, sometimes repeated issues, of dead batteries.

Here I will give 3 examples of where to pick a winch ground location.
FYI, you should NEVER run a winch through a bus bar. Not many can truly handle 200+amps, plus that adds another level of complexity we don't need.

Ok...
Lets review this and talk.
I'm not saying its perfect. but I would like to hear what you have to think.

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FIRST - The factory installed winch, single battery.​

Here the best choice is to use the extra provided ground wire (blue tape wire). Doing this routs power through the frame and allows pulling a little power from the stator on the way, thus slightly reducing the load on the battery. This is also Honda's recommend method.

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SECOND - Winch with a dual battery system. NOT IDEAL! ​

Here we have used the factory provided extra ground wire for our winch ground. This is not ideal because the return path pushes through the factory system and could pass thought the primary battery as well.
Our goal with a dual battery system is to protect the primary battery.
In this case, if the isolator cuts off, the ground will still hit the primary and from there I am not exactly sure if it will be considered returned or continue on. If it is considered returned, then I would not expect that battery to last long.

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THIRD - The best grounding method. ​

Here we force the return path to be directly to the second battery. If the isolator cuts off then the primary battery is not effected in any manner.

 

[Hondasxs]

OPEN.

 

[Pilotadam]

I personally used option 3. I think this added the best protection to the Honda wiring system yet good connection for the winch to get the best amp. In this subject we should also talk about wire size. Many people under size the wire to their winch. Under high load the winch pull 200+ Amps. Using the proper size wire or slight larger is as important as grounding to prevent heat build up and damage to the system.

Great discussion.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[someguy1313]

good stuff!

 

[906UP]

Mine is very similar to #3 too, I have my aux battery mounted in the rear (T1Kx) with cables running to the front, the + from the aux battery, the winch + and aux + from the isolator are on a stinger. The aux -, winch - and factory extra - are connected to another stinger. The main & aux batteries are separated but use the frame as a common ground. The factory extra + goes to the main lug on the isolator to charge the main battery.

 

[Bama-Daniel]

Great explanation. Explanations like this is one of many examples why this club is so awesome. I used the 3rd method too. I wanted all accessories to be on the 2nd battery and don’t want anything pulling from my primary system. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Great info. Mine is #3. I’ve got + and - bus bars, along with a couple things from the club store, just waiting for the weather to break a bit to install. That 2nd battery terminal gets crowded running everything through it to protect primary. Hoping to get it down to big 3 - winch, isolator and stinger. Debating what size wire is best for bus bars. Appreciate all the help and info.

 

[Hondasxs]

That 2nd battery terminal gets crowded running everything through it to protect primary. Hoping to get it down to big 3 - winch, isolator and stinger.

Yes. Those 3 need to be direct to the battery.

Everything else that needs power can run after the stinger off the fuse box.

If you need constant. Hook it to the battery side of the stinger.

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[Ridinfool]

Great explanation. Explanations like this is one of many examples why this club is so awesome. I used the 3rd method too. I wanted all accessories to be on the 2nd battery and don’t want anything pulling from my primary system. Thanks for sharing.

This, Ed Zackery 👆👆👆👆

 

[Pilotadam]

If you need more battery junctions I used these for mine. Mostly because I mounted a blue tip Optima Battery under the driver seat. Than ran some #1/0 welding cable from the battery to this junction. Then split off to the winch and bus bar.

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[Pilotadam]

If you need more battery junctions I used these for mine. Mostly because I mounted a blue tip Optima Battery under the driver seat. Than ran some #1/0 welding cable from the battery to this junction. Then split off to the winch and bus bar.

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For got the picture.

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[Hondasxs]

For got the picture.View attachment 312667

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This is a mini bus bar.
Bus bars have there own issues to discuss when the isolator is also connected to that same bus bar.

Where as, installs I have seen with bus bars. They could completely remove the second battery and everything would still work.

That's far from a proper install for our purposes.

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[Pilotadam]

This is a mini bus bar.
Bus bars have there own issues to discuss when the isolator is also connected to that same bus bar.

Where as, installs I have seen with bus bars. They could completely remove the second battery and everything would still work.

That's far from a proper install for our purposes.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Let me clarify. I have a True isolator between the two batteries. I use these mini bus bar as the battery connection under the hood since my 2nd battery is under the seat.

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[Robobrainiac]

Good information. I am not crazy savvy on electronics or resistance and I know a little. My winch was direct to the main battery. After I added my auxillary battery the winch was then connected directly to the auxillary battery. Any high amp product should always perform best when connected directly to the power source.

 

[Scoop]

FYI, you should NEVER run a winch through a bus bar. Not many can truly handle 200+amps, plus that adds another level of complexity we don't need.

You can find them.

For the winch connections, I only use a bus bar for the negative side and the ground cable that goes from that bus bar back to the AUX battery negative is on the same post on the bus bar as the winch ground. My winch positive goes directly to the positive post on the AUX battery. Isolator is not connected to any bus bars - only to the two batteries.

Rated for 250A @ 12VDC: