I have to say that I am so happy with the insulation. I was wondering if it would be worth the effort and time to pull all the plastic off and insulate it...totally worth it. I used some stuff called Thermo Tec Cool It ($57 for 30x60” on Amazon). When it arrived and I un-rolled it, it did not look impressive at all. I laid it out in the sun to heat up and then pulled, washed, and laid out all the panels to warm up as well. Then I pulled out the razor knife, tape, straight edge and got to work. It took probably 4-5 hours to cover it all thoroughly and reinstall. During that time the shock spacers came. So, I installed those right after.
I just set the underseat fan to 170° (normally keep it at 140°; thermostat is located on the intake directly above the headers). I let the machine idle for 25minutes until the radiator fan kicked on (oh yeah, the new SPAL fan upgrade on that is much quieter and cooled the machine off quicker as well, only ran about 10 seconds). The machine got warm...very warm. I could only feel warmth at the location where the passenger seat belt plug is (just the rubber layers over there). In the back, you could only feel it in the right rear passenger footwell directly above the header (front left corner of the foot well). Both were warm, but probably only 80° I’m guessing. You could feel the heat rising between the back of the seat and the dump bed. I have some black insulation noodles on rider but they’re running late. I’m going to use those to seal off that area better.
It was sort of the a pain to do,..but worth it. To be honest...probably could by with doing that and not having under-seat fans. I guess overkill never hurt anyone since they’re already installed.
I just set the underseat fan to 170° (normally keep it at 140°; thermostat is located on the intake directly above the headers). I let the machine idle for 25minutes until the radiator fan kicked on (oh yeah, the new SPAL fan upgrade on that is much quieter and cooled the machine off quicker as well, only ran about 10 seconds). The machine got warm...very warm. I could only feel warmth at the location where the passenger seat belt plug is (just the rubber layers over there). In the back, you could only feel it in the right rear passenger footwell directly above the header (front left corner of the foot well). Both were warm, but probably only 80° I’m guessing. You could feel the heat rising between the back of the seat and the dump bed. I have some black insulation noodles on rider but they’re running late. I’m going to use those to seal off that area better.
It was sort of the a pain to do,..but worth it. To be honest...probably could by with doing that and not having under-seat fans. I guess overkill never hurt anyone since they’re already installed.
Here are a few pictures of the bed insulation.
I didn’t do anything more with the airbox cover...but I hate that stupid rubber flapper Honda put on there...it’s worthless and folds under half the time. I think I may order heavier rubber and cut a larger piece for it, and possibly insulate the cover because you can feel the heat rise up through it.
I didn’t do anything more with the airbox cover...but I hate that stupid rubber flapper Honda put on there...it’s worthless and folds under half the time. I think I may order heavier rubber and cut a larger piece for it, and possibly insulate the cover because you can feel the heat rise up through it.
I played around with an old cargo net that I had installed in my previous owned MotoVan. Seemed to be a perfect fit for an overhead storage option. After messing around with the mounting strap configuration, I was able to keep it tight and even with the top of the ROPS bars, so it won't hit rear passengers heads....if there are folks back there.
Last time I had my nieces in back, I noticed that the rear seat belts were hardly effective. The fold out buckles stuck up too high and the belt didn't even touch their hips. If they pull them down, the metal brackets dug into their hips. When the girls feel asleep, the cross-shoulder strap didn't touch them hardly and their heads would hit the rear shoulder bolster (the metal bar on the rear of the dump bed). It sort of bugged me that they weren't as comfy in my machine as they were in their dad's Yamaha Wolverine X4 that sports bucket seats. So, I ordered up a set of standard 4-point harnesses from eBay ($45 a pair). I had to cut the top mounting straps to use them as a strap-style instead of the bracket bolt-on style mount. I removed the top seat pad, and routed the straps around the steel bracket behind it, routed the straps to the center of the pad, and reinstalled the pad. This keeps the straps centered, and ensures that they go over the kids shoulders instead of around them. Plus, the straps are lower than mounting them on the top bar of the flip-up seat. The lap belt was simply bolted to the same place the factory flip-up brackets were bolted. Additionally, I keep two garden kneeling pads ready, and cut two pieces (about 10 inches long) of that black pipe insulation (same stuff from between the bed/seat back) and that covers the shoulder bolsters so I don't have to worry about their heads hitting (not that the 4-points would allow them to move much now). I keep the seat pads, and bolster covers stored in the under-seat storage tote beneath the drivers seat. The rear seats fold down nicely, and the belts should more effectively hold young passengers. I am going to order two sternum straps and shoulder pads just to increase comfort further. And, if an adult sits back there, they can either adjust the straps looser to fit, or simply loosen them enough to not even use the shoulder straps.
Storage....We can always use more, right?! And as many have found, storage that is safe from the elements and dust. I'm a sucker for Pelican cases after seeing how robust they are during my time in the Air Force...so I took some measurements and ordered a few. The Pelican case, model 1650, is the same height as the bed rails and I can fit one perpendicualr in the bed, or two running parallel. I will most likely just use one because I can easily mount and secure it down with lashing straps through the handles. This allows me open and close it without removing the straps and allows room for the soft cooler I have for the machine. After taking some more measurements, if the rear seats are up, I can slide the case back onto the tail gate. The Seizmik XD10 bed extender will fit perfectly for this setup, so I place one on back-order and they're expected sometime in early June.
Last time I had my nieces in back, I noticed that the rear seat belts were hardly effective. The fold out buckles stuck up too high and the belt didn't even touch their hips. If they pull them down, the metal brackets dug into their hips. When the girls feel asleep, the cross-shoulder strap didn't touch them hardly and their heads would hit the rear shoulder bolster (the metal bar on the rear of the dump bed). It sort of bugged me that they weren't as comfy in my machine as they were in their dad's Yamaha Wolverine X4 that sports bucket seats. So, I ordered up a set of standard 4-point harnesses from eBay ($45 a pair). I had to cut the top mounting straps to use them as a strap-style instead of the bracket bolt-on style mount. I removed the top seat pad, and routed the straps around the steel bracket behind it, routed the straps to the center of the pad, and reinstalled the pad. This keeps the straps centered, and ensures that they go over the kids shoulders instead of around them. Plus, the straps are lower than mounting them on the top bar of the flip-up seat. The lap belt was simply bolted to the same place the factory flip-up brackets were bolted. Additionally, I keep two garden kneeling pads ready, and cut two pieces (about 10 inches long) of that black pipe insulation (same stuff from between the bed/seat back) and that covers the shoulder bolsters so I don't have to worry about their heads hitting (not that the 4-points would allow them to move much now). I keep the seat pads, and bolster covers stored in the under-seat storage tote beneath the drivers seat. The rear seats fold down nicely, and the belts should more effectively hold young passengers. I am going to order two sternum straps and shoulder pads just to increase comfort further. And, if an adult sits back there, they can either adjust the straps looser to fit, or simply loosen them enough to not even use the shoulder straps.
Storage....We can always use more, right?! And as many have found, storage that is safe from the elements and dust. I'm a sucker for Pelican cases after seeing how robust they are during my time in the Air Force...so I took some measurements and ordered a few. The Pelican case, model 1650, is the same height as the bed rails and I can fit one perpendicualr in the bed, or two running parallel. I will most likely just use one because I can easily mount and secure it down with lashing straps through the handles. This allows me open and close it without removing the straps and allows room for the soft cooler I have for the machine. After taking some more measurements, if the rear seats are up, I can slide the case back onto the tail gate. The Seizmik XD10 bed extender will fit perfectly for this setup, so I place one on back-order and they're expected sometime in early June.
Haldog77
NTC's Mafia Enforcer
Lifetime Member
Picked up a DynoJet Power Vision 3 after seeing the temperature drops folks have been recording.
Also grabbed a Seizmik Bed Extender just incase we pick up more passengers and need to slide the case out back. The bed extender is pretty cool...but much more complicated than those I've seen from Honda OEM, JEI, and Brick City Fab. I preferred the ease of the others, but because of how many of them flipped inside the bed, they didn't leave enough room for the Pelican case. Because my toy hauler only has a 10ft garage, adding something off the rear also wasn't an option....so Seizmik was the only choice I had. Few things...
1. DO NOT USE RVautoparts.com. They advertised it for $316 shipped. The price got me and I swiped the card. After 6 weeks of waiting, I called, left messages, sent emails....got one response. They said it should be shipping any day. It never shipped. Then their site was gone one day. Tried for a refund and nothing. So, I had VISA pull the money back.
2. It's a cool idea. But...it's like they had the idea and never took the time to really figure out tiny details. The hardware is a miss and parts that were assembled, required attention because many of the bolts were loose. I had to file bolts off because they hit in places where they shouldn't have. It took some finesse, but it's installed and works as it should. Just wanted to give folks a heads up if they're looking at them.
And finally...got it loaded in the toy hauler. It's a snug fit...but it fits. We're headed up to northern Michigan next week from Maryland. I cannot wait to get out of here and up there! Finally get to use this thing and anytime away from DC is a win for us!
Also grabbed a Seizmik Bed Extender just incase we pick up more passengers and need to slide the case out back. The bed extender is pretty cool...but much more complicated than those I've seen from Honda OEM, JEI, and Brick City Fab. I preferred the ease of the others, but because of how many of them flipped inside the bed, they didn't leave enough room for the Pelican case. Because my toy hauler only has a 10ft garage, adding something off the rear also wasn't an option....so Seizmik was the only choice I had. Few things...
1. DO NOT USE RVautoparts.com. They advertised it for $316 shipped. The price got me and I swiped the card. After 6 weeks of waiting, I called, left messages, sent emails....got one response. They said it should be shipping any day. It never shipped. Then their site was gone one day. Tried for a refund and nothing. So, I had VISA pull the money back.
2. It's a cool idea. But...it's like they had the idea and never took the time to really figure out tiny details. The hardware is a miss and parts that were assembled, required attention because many of the bolts were loose. I had to file bolts off because they hit in places where they shouldn't have. It took some finesse, but it's installed and works as it should. Just wanted to give folks a heads up if they're looking at them.
And finally...got it loaded in the toy hauler. It's a snug fit...but it fits. We're headed up to northern Michigan next week from Maryland. I cannot wait to get out of here and up there! Finally get to use this thing and anytime away from DC is a win for us!
So, we brought the machine up to Michigan for a few weeks and logged a few hundred miles.
The changes and add on's helped a lot. Many fo them were very useful. The ride was MUCH better, heat control was decent, and we had a good time. But...the hard reality is that this machine....isn't the right machine for me. The handling, the power, the comfort....it's just not where I think it should be. If we're staying under 30mph; ideally around 20mph, it's great for scenic riding. But above that is really pushing the chassis too hard in my opinion and sort of boring when compared to riding bikes. So...an expensive lesson learned. I think I'm going to sell this thing and replace it with a sport machine of some sort. I just have to decide if I'm going to sell it "as is" or start pulling and selling accessories and returning it partially back to stock.
I think I'll be pulling all of the Rigid Lights that are forward facing (or at least 2 sets), the Soundbar has to be pulled and recycled to a new machine because it's awesome. I'm not sure about he other parts.
The changes and add on's helped a lot. Many fo them were very useful. The ride was MUCH better, heat control was decent, and we had a good time. But...the hard reality is that this machine....isn't the right machine for me. The handling, the power, the comfort....it's just not where I think it should be. If we're staying under 30mph; ideally around 20mph, it's great for scenic riding. But above that is really pushing the chassis too hard in my opinion and sort of boring when compared to riding bikes. So...an expensive lesson learned. I think I'm going to sell this thing and replace it with a sport machine of some sort. I just have to decide if I'm going to sell it "as is" or start pulling and selling accessories and returning it partially back to stock.
I think I'll be pulling all of the Rigid Lights that are forward facing (or at least 2 sets), the Soundbar has to be pulled and recycled to a new machine because it's awesome. I'm not sure about he other parts.
J
Unfortunately, the machine was left up in Michigan at my fathers place. I received orders out to Nebraska and the UTV put me well over my weight limit. So I had to move it and one of the trailers up there for the next few months. I’ll eventually get up there and grab it, but it’ll go right out to NE; not back here.
J
OK. After doing some measuring and exploring...I'm pretty sure a Honda Talon 1000X model will meet my needs. They make a sweet little bump seat to fit between the driver and passenger that should give my daughter another 30lbs of room for growth. I'd like to stay with a 2-seater SXS because the 4 seaters are soooo long and don't like right without heavy mods (in my opinion). Plus...they'd be hard to explore with the way my brother and I explore (tight woods, etc).
So...I think I'm going to sell this thing. I'm not sure what to try and sell it for. I know, without a doubt....I'm going to take a hit. But, I think that I can get a fair price for the machine and someone who is in the market can get a sweet deal. It is very well sorted out and has only been on 2 big trips. You see, I live in DC at the moment and the machine has sat in the garage for most of its life. I would keep it plugged into a battery tender 24/7 and run it around the neighborhood at least once every 2-weeks just to keep things moving. I'm a very thorough mechanic and treat my machines like my tools...very well taken care of and maintained. 15 years in aircraft maintenance on-top of working in the Powersports industry for 12+ years will do that to you. But like I said...I think someone who knows what they're looking for could get a great deal, and I feel very confident in knowing that I'm selling a very sound machine.
I will, without a doubt, remove the sound bar and 2 pairs of the Rigid Ind lights (the expensive ones). Depending on what I list it for...I may remove some of the other items unless a buyer is willing to pay for them. Those items include the shocks, bed extender, and maybe the winch? I'm not sure yet...
Here are the details. Any opinions on what you guys think I should or could list it for? Or does anyone have buddies looking for a turn-key ready trail machine?
2018 Honda Pioneer 1000-5 Deluxe
- Clean/Clear VA title in hand
- Extended warranty - 3 1/2yrs remaining
- Hours: (I'll have to check...should be very low)
- Miles: (I'lll have check, but should be under 600 miles)
- First service and all recalls complied with.
Additional Items------------------------------------------------
- Walker Evans Shocks Front and Rear
- Honda Accessories front bumper (LE bumper)
- Honda Accessories Soft-top with rear window
- Honda Accessories under-dash storage tray
- Honda Accessories under-seat storage (5-gallon
- Honda full Service Manual
- DynoJet Powervision III
- Hess Motorsports Tune
- Skid Plate / Chassis - Factor 1/2 inch UHMW
- Skid Plate / A-Arms front and rear - Aluminum 1/8 inch
- SuperATV flip-up windshield
- WFO SuperATV Windshield arm
- Seizmik Rear Bed-Extender XD10
- RB door bushings front and rear
- Horn
- Dash Switch-plate (10 switch provisions, 1 USB charger, 1 dual-battery gauge, and RAM Mount)
- Dual-Battery set-up
- True AM Battery Isolator
- Second Battery
- Relayed and Fused accessory block
- SPAL high-performance radiator fan
- Throttle Max
- BUSS Fuse Block (5 relayed circuits, 5 powered circuits)
- Rigid Industries Ignite backup light pods
- Rigid Industries Ignite side lights - flush mounts
- Rigid Industries Dually D2 Spot lights
- Magnum Outdoors Pillar Light mounts
- KFI Winch Mount
- Mile Marker 5000lb winch
- Cup holders - Front and Rear
- Oversized dash cup holders
- Interior red dash lights (for night riding)
- Interior dome lighting
- Rear view mirror (center)
- Rear view mirrors (driver and passenger)
- Fully insulated tunnel/seat/floor
- Thermo switched w/override controlled undersea fan and engine-bay exhaust fan (both SPAL waterproof fans)
- Rear 4-point harness
- Rear seat pads
- Stock seatbelts for rear are included
- Stock shocks are included
- Service extras include air filter and gaskets
Installed but will not be included with sale-------------------------------
- Infinity Kappa Sound Bar
- Rigid Industries Dually Driving lights
- Rigid Industries Dually High/Low Driving Lights
So...I think I'm going to sell this thing. I'm not sure what to try and sell it for. I know, without a doubt....I'm going to take a hit. But, I think that I can get a fair price for the machine and someone who is in the market can get a sweet deal. It is very well sorted out and has only been on 2 big trips. You see, I live in DC at the moment and the machine has sat in the garage for most of its life. I would keep it plugged into a battery tender 24/7 and run it around the neighborhood at least once every 2-weeks just to keep things moving. I'm a very thorough mechanic and treat my machines like my tools...very well taken care of and maintained. 15 years in aircraft maintenance on-top of working in the Powersports industry for 12+ years will do that to you. But like I said...I think someone who knows what they're looking for could get a great deal, and I feel very confident in knowing that I'm selling a very sound machine.
I will, without a doubt, remove the sound bar and 2 pairs of the Rigid Ind lights (the expensive ones). Depending on what I list it for...I may remove some of the other items unless a buyer is willing to pay for them. Those items include the shocks, bed extender, and maybe the winch? I'm not sure yet...
Here are the details. Any opinions on what you guys think I should or could list it for? Or does anyone have buddies looking for a turn-key ready trail machine?
2018 Honda Pioneer 1000-5 Deluxe
- Clean/Clear VA title in hand
- Extended warranty - 3 1/2yrs remaining
- Hours: (I'll have to check...should be very low)
- Miles: (I'lll have check, but should be under 600 miles)
- First service and all recalls complied with.
Additional Items------------------------------------------------
- Walker Evans Shocks Front and Rear
- Honda Accessories front bumper (LE bumper)
- Honda Accessories Soft-top with rear window
- Honda Accessories under-dash storage tray
- Honda Accessories under-seat storage (5-gallon
- Honda full Service Manual
- DynoJet Powervision III
- Hess Motorsports Tune
- Skid Plate / Chassis - Factor 1/2 inch UHMW
- Skid Plate / A-Arms front and rear - Aluminum 1/8 inch
- SuperATV flip-up windshield
- WFO SuperATV Windshield arm
- Seizmik Rear Bed-Extender XD10
- RB door bushings front and rear
- Horn
- Dash Switch-plate (10 switch provisions, 1 USB charger, 1 dual-battery gauge, and RAM Mount)
- Dual-Battery set-up
- True AM Battery Isolator
- Second Battery
- Relayed and Fused accessory block
- SPAL high-performance radiator fan
- Throttle Max
- BUSS Fuse Block (5 relayed circuits, 5 powered circuits)
- Rigid Industries Ignite backup light pods
- Rigid Industries Ignite side lights - flush mounts
- Rigid Industries Dually D2 Spot lights
- Magnum Outdoors Pillar Light mounts
- KFI Winch Mount
- Mile Marker 5000lb winch
- Cup holders - Front and Rear
- Oversized dash cup holders
- Interior red dash lights (for night riding)
- Interior dome lighting
- Rear view mirror (center)
- Rear view mirrors (driver and passenger)
- Fully insulated tunnel/seat/floor
- Thermo switched w/override controlled undersea fan and engine-bay exhaust fan (both SPAL waterproof fans)
- Rear 4-point harness
- Rear seat pads
- Stock seatbelts for rear are included
- Stock shocks are included
- Service extras include air filter and gaskets
Installed but will not be included with sale-------------------------------
- Infinity Kappa Sound Bar
- Rigid Industries Dually Driving lights
- Rigid Industries Dually High/Low Driving Lights
Last edited:
J
My brother-in-law might be interested. But I doubt he'd be willing to pay any more than what I paid for a new one, despite the modifications. The unfortunate reality is modifications rarely increase the value of a used vehicle, most of the time they actually reduce the value. While your have a number of high quality modifications and a well documented record of performing top notch mechanical work it may still not return a lot of value when sold.
For your sake, I hope I'm wrong in this. Personally, I wouldn't give over $16k for the unit based on the above reasoning, and would offer $15k as a buyer.
For your sake, I hope I'm wrong in this. Personally, I wouldn't give over $16k for the unit based on the above reasoning, and would offer $15k as a buyer.
I appreciate the honest feedback.
You’re right. Most of that stuff won’t add any value. If something is easy to pull off, I most likely will. But some stuff simply wouldn’t yield a used-price that justifies the time to remove...(skids, anything electrical, bumpers, etc). To be 100% honest....I’ll probably only pull the stuff I’ll reuse and maybe the shocks. The rest will go to the buyer and I’ll eat that hit.
But you’re pricing is what I was thinking. $16k with shocks and $15k without.
oh...just FYI...clean and clear VA title in hand.
Thanks for the honesty @jgardner!
You’re right. Most of that stuff won’t add any value. If something is easy to pull off, I most likely will. But some stuff simply wouldn’t yield a used-price that justifies the time to remove...(skids, anything electrical, bumpers, etc). To be 100% honest....I’ll probably only pull the stuff I’ll reuse and maybe the shocks. The rest will go to the buyer and I’ll eat that hit.
But you’re pricing is what I was thinking. $16k with shocks and $15k without.
oh...just FYI...clean and clear VA title in hand.
Thanks for the honesty @jgardner!
J
TripleB
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
I think the current situation with inventory at the dealers, someone would give $16k in a heartbeat. Its a sellers market right now. I would advertise it for $20k and see what you can get. A base model 5 seater is gonna cost someone $17,300 in most places. Dealers aren't willing to deal like before.
This
@jgardner - I'll let you know if I end up bringing the machine or any parts back. I've got to travel back to Michigan to rebuild my father's Mule...poor guy. Damn air intake is sooo low on those things, and he sucked water and bent a rod when it hydro-locked. Dealer's estimated $2500-2800 to replace one rod and piston and I couldn't let him pay that.
@TripleB Yeah, the more I'm searching...the harder they are to find. I'm hoping to sell it up near my dad's to save me hauling the thing back and forth. A buddy up there just mentioned that his brother was interested...so we'll see if that goes anywhere. If it doesn't...I think I'll list it high and see what happens.
Below are a few pictures from up in Michigan of my dad's machine and the bent rod.
Well...didn’t even get a chance to list it. Close friend from back in Michigan was talking to his younger brother about the machine. They just left my dads place where I left it and called me up. Made an offer to buy the machine as is (minus my soundbar) that I couldn’t pass on.
So....I guess it’s sold. I’ll be shopping for Talon’s after we move and settle in NE.
So....I guess it’s sold. I’ll be shopping for Talon’s after we move and settle in NE.
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