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I know this is yet another 700-4 build, but it's mine to share. I'm new to the side-by-side game and wanted to thank everyone in advance for their posts as I stole almost all these upgrades from your experiences. I'm not a professional, do so at your own risk.
Going through the pictures.
So what do you think? What would you have done differently or what did I miss? open to positive comments and ideas.
Take care,
PartsGuy
Going through the pictures.
- Of course Mystic tailgate levelers.
- 2016 Canam Defender Shocks (2.5" lift) bushings from polys supply. Had to sand down poly bushings the get close enough fit.
- Used orange paint marker to mark everything to see in dark better.
- Marked all door handles from above with yellow paint marker for easier visibility
- Wrapped main exhaust with header wrap. Yes, it's still hot as all when you touch the plastic.
- Rear shock install pic.
- Getting ready for Snorkel Install. Used 2" spa hose and various 45 and 90 degrees for minimalistic routing. Bought a warrior riser separately. All said less than $100 into the snorkel.
- Turned the front of the area into my electrical tray. Bent up an old computer case to 35 degrees and walla!
- Didn't like the front bumper. 1" electrical conduit bent into a light bar. Drill hole into the bumper and put pipe all the way in and welded around, very rigid.
- Rear Money shot of installed shocks, really nice and smooth ride. Well worth the $330 for the shocks.
- If you notice the green I Eastwood undercarriage sprayed every internal pipe I could before capping them off.
- 1 5/8 Clamp-on bar clamps for the custom horizontal bar. The bar is used for rear harness straps and adjustable rear headrests. Quick story - We had a friend who off-roaded all the time with their kids in a jeep. One day they were having a great time and noticed their son fell asleep in the back seat. When they got back he did not wake up. Turned out he slammed his head on the roll bar and broke his neck. The Honda rear seat is a square metal tube that will hurt you.
- Rear storage area. 3/4" metal conduit bent into 90 degrees. Leftover 3/8 rod from child door gate. Bottom flat plat leftover door from the old electrical panel. Sidebars are 2" angle iron. One nutsert into the hole under the plastic cap on the tailgate latch area and use a stock bolt for tiedown. It is semi-permanent and requires removal to close the gate.
- Used 2 Polaris ranger headrests as they had the bolt pattern I was looking for mounting. Adjustable for kids and adults. Use a push pin to hold. In top position clears bed tilt.
- Mystic switch panel did not clear switches as metal reinforcement behind dash prevented attachment. Used 2 .5 inch PVC board cutout outs as spacers (shown in later pic)
- Front and rear differentials got bellows breathers (yes fan breather was attached in front).
- My electrical panel comes to fruition. The stinger accessory switch ran off of a lighter accessory as a trigger. Winch manual also mounted inside. 6 gauge wiring to battery for positive and negative. Also made the black cover plate to reduce mud into electrical and it worked well, 12-degree bend if I remember correctly.
- Honda 1000 wheels and 27 bighorns using 1.5" 4X137 to 4X100 adapters. 15.5 inches of clearance.
- Rear shot of quick release fire extinguisher and cargo area.
- Spaced out switch panel with PVC. Did dome and cargo light with 8" 12v led strips.
- Forgot - I also added a 3500lb winch with a 7 K-rated lifting eyebolt mounted on the winch tray so I can double back hook safely.
So what do you think? What would you have done differently or what did I miss? open to positive comments and ideas.
Take care,
PartsGuy
