P1000m5 New Member - Quick Wiring Question

Jankyeye

Jankyeye

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@Scotty D Welcome from FL! Just and FYI, you can find pretty much the same windshield on Amazon much cheaper. It wont be the TUSK brand but almost half the cost. That said, I ordered a TUSK rear window that showed up broke. Sent them a message with a picture and had a replacement a few days later.

did you mean to put this in this thread?
 
Mopower58

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Hi, Bulldawg Bill from Wilder, TN here, just bought a 2024 Pioneer 1000-5 and am looking forward to joining the community and hopefully doing some group rides once I get a trailer big enough to haul it.

I'm in the process of making it street legal. I bought a street legal kit from the dealer who was going to install it, so I didn't get to choose the kit, but due to various delays I decided to install it myself. Had I selected it I would have searched for one that uses the stock tail/brake lights, but the kit they bought has separate, tiny little turn signals for both front and rear. I don't see much choice for the front, but for the rear, is there a problem tapping into the wiring to the existing tail/brake lights? If I do that, is some kind of switch needed to keep the blinker flashing when I press the brake, or any other caveats?

Thank you in advance for your help!
Welcome from Mississippi.
#NTC
 
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Bulldawg Bill

Bulldawg Bill

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Welcome to the club. Nice buggy. Highly recommend the club store for all of your accessories as they seem to be the best fit and most popular for your Pioneer. Club store tab up top on this page. Good luck.
I have looked through the previous threads, watched a number of videos, etc., and bought parts accordingly. Now that I'm getting ready to install it all, however, I'm left wondering if I misread something, bought too many parts, etc.?

I bought the Kemimoto Battery Isolator kit from Amazon, as well as the Stinger Relay, but now I'm wondering if I need both? I like the Kemimoto kit because of the emergency start option, the voltage meter, etc., but I can't find the wiring diagram (if there ever was one?) that used both. I'm sure life would have been much simpler if I had bought everything from the HondaSXS Club store as Rayger143 advised, and that was indeed my intent (I purchased the accessory switch wiring harness there) but to my chagrin the store site came up as closed when I was trying to order everything. Now it appears that was a temporary thing, and after reading past posts appears it happens from time to time, so next time I'll know to wait, but this time I thought it was out of business and sent Jeff Bezos too much of my hard earned money.

If anyone has time to shed light on the best way to wire the dual battery setup with both the Kemimoto and the Stinger (I also have bus bars for all the accessories I'm adding) I would really appreciate it!

Also, I have seen some disagreement in various threads regarding where the winch should be wired - the primary (starting) battery or the second battery. I am leaning toward the second battery via the bus bars, to preserve my starting battery (though I generally leave the engine running when winching to prevent discharging the battery) and because the second battery is larger with more amp hours and CCA. Are there any downsides to doing it this way?

Thanks in advance for the advice for a newbie!
 
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Rayger143

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I have looked through the previous threads, watched a number of videos, etc., and bought parts accordingly. Now that I'm getting ready to install it all, however, I'm left wondering if I misread something, bought too many parts, etc.?

I bought the Kemimoto Battery Isolator kit from Amazon, as well as the Stinger Relay, but now I'm wondering if I need both? I like the Kemimoto kit because of the emergency start option, the voltage meter, etc., but I can't find the wiring diagram (if there ever was one?) that used both. I'm sure life would have been much simpler if I had bought everything from the HondaSXS Club store as Rayger143 advised, and that was indeed my intent (I purchased the accessory switch wiring harness there) but to my chagrin the store site came up as closed when I was trying to order everything. Now it appears that was a temporary thing, and after reading past posts appears it happens from time to time, so next time I'll know to wait, but this time I thought it was out of business and sent Jeff Bezos too much of my hard earned money.

If anyone has time to shed light on the best way to wire the dual battery setup with both the Kemimoto and the Stinger (I also have bus bars for all the accessories I'm adding) I would really appreciate it!

Also, I have seen some disagreement in various threads regarding where the winch should be wired - the primary (starting) battery or the second battery. I am leaning toward the second battery via the bus bars, to preserve my starting battery (though I generally leave the engine running when winching to prevent discharging the battery) and because the second battery is larger with more amp hours and CCA. Are there any downsides to doing it this way?

Thanks in advance for the advice for a newbie!
Can't help with the Kemimoto stuff. Amazon is pretty good on returns. As far as which battery to connect your winch to there are a lot of opinions but only 2 choices.
 
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Jankyeye

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Also not familiar with the Kemimoto set up but looking at it I don't think you need the stinger if it has a 140A relay. Most use a stinger type relay with the Tru isolator that does not have a relay.

As for the winch, pos/neg to 2nd battery with the winch solenoid trigger wired to the key on pwr 140A relay is how I would do it.
 
Bulldawg Bill

Bulldawg Bill

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Also not familiar with the Kemimoto set up but looking at it I don't think you need the stinger if it has a 140A relay. Most use a stinger type relay with the Tru isolator that does not have a relay.

As for the winch, pos/neg to 2nd battery with the winch solenoid trigger wired to the key on pwr 140A relay is how I would do it.
Thanks!
 
Mudder

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Welcome from Georgia.
 
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Scoop

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Also not familiar with the Kemimoto set up but looking at it I don't think you need the stinger if it has a 140A relay. Most use a stinger type relay with the Tru isolator that does not have a relay.
I believe the only relay in his kit is for the voltmeter.

Screenshot 20240808 175428 DuckDuckGo
 
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Jankyeye

Jankyeye

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I believe the only relay in his kit is for the voltmeter.

View attachment 439802
Looking at the web sight, the isolator is 140a, the relay is only 40a. While its still likely enough to run a fuse panel/accessories, I believe you are correct that its intended for the volt meter. I stand corrected.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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Looking at the web sight, the isolator is 140a, the relay is only 40a. While its still likely enough to run a fuse panel/accessories, I believe you are correct that its intended for the volt meter. I stand corrected.
You need a good high amp continuous duty rated relay to power a fuse box that has more than a few things on it. No way would I run a fuse panel with a dinky automotive style relay like that. But, hey, to each their own.
 
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Jankyeye

Jankyeye

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  2. Talon R LV
You need a good high amp continuous duty rated relay to power a fuse box that has more than a few things on it. No way would I run a fuse panel with a dinky automotive style relay like that. But, hey, to each their own.
I have a Cole herse/fuse panel in the pioneer, works great. I opted to try the 40 amp turnpro buss bar in the talon since everything has an in line fuse anyway. It has a smaller automotive relay and has worked great so far.
 
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Bulldawg Bill

Bulldawg Bill

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I used the Stinger to power the fuse box. The other relay for the voltmeter says to wire it to an ignition ground - never heard of such a thing, so the voltmeter stays on all the time, which I don't like. I found one other thread mentioning a different kit and where to wire the relay, but I couldn't understand it.

I finally got most of the customizations done I have planned, so I'm updating a few pics here. I do want to make the switches on the lower panel match at some point, but have to get my turn signal problem figured out before I worry about that.

20240824 18402420240824 18461720240824 18483020240824 18494920240824 185017

Also curious if anyone has come across an aftermarket something to cover the gaping maw in the front panel without overly restricting air intake to the radiator causing overheating? Not only is it ugly, I would think it's just asking for a stray branch to puncture the radiator at some point? Would something similar to the flag I have in the back block too much air? Anyone seen something like that for sale?


20240827 141002
 
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Jankyeye

Jankyeye

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Tampa, Fl.
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  1. 1000-5

  2. Talon R LV
I used the Stinger to power the fuse box. The other relay for the voltmeter says to wire it to an ignition ground - never heard of such a thing, so the voltmeter stays on all the time, which I don't like. I found one other thread mentioning a different kit and where to wire the relay, but I couldn't understand it.

I finally got most of the customizations done I have planned, so I'm updating a few pics here. I do want to make the switches on the lower panel match at some point, but have to get my turn signal problem figured out before I worry about that.

View attachment 441970View attachment 441971View attachment 441972View attachment 441973View attachment 441974

Also curious if anyone has come across an aftermarket something to cover the gaping maw in the front panel without overly restricting air intake to the radiator causing overheating? Not only is it ugly, I would think it's just asking for a stray branch to puncture the radiator at some point? Would something similar to the flag I have in the back block too much air? Anyone seen something like that for sale?


View attachment 441975

I have one of these laying around. Changed bumper and dont need it anymore.
 
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