Fantastic Mr. Barlow. I've avoided Canada as of late just due to their firearms policies, it doesn't appear there is any (legal) way for an American tourist to bring a handgun into the country and I just don't travel unarmed.
You're correct. Canada customs is dead serious about handguns. They go on high alert when someone with a Texas license plate pulls up to their entry station. I guess they think all Texans are armed cowboys. They'll ask you three or four times in different ways if you're carrying a handgun to see if they can see a tell in your face.
Thirty years ago my wife and I, pulling a travel trailer, entered British Columbia. I was carrying a small semi-automatic handgun but stopped in Bellingham, WA and checked the gun in with a local hardware store to keep for safekeeping for a few days. The hardware store would not accept the magazine or rounds.
So when I pulled up to the customs entry and was asked, I replied honestly - "I was carrying a handgun but checked it with Xxxxx Hardware in Bellingham." "Here's the receipt." "But the hardware store wouldn't accept the magazine so it's in a drawer in the trailer."
The Canada customs agent was suddenly angry and tight-jawed. He ordered us to pull over to the inspection lane and get out of the truck. Two agents made us sit on a curb while they carefully searched the entire truck and trailer. When they found only the magazine they let us proceed without further trouble.
But I've been back many times including the Trans-Canada motorcycle ride and never had any problems. canada is a beautiful place and worth seeing. Just don't carry a gun!