P500 P500 Inferno heater instal- lessons learned?

bowhunterbill

bowhunterbill

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May 31, 2019
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I finally decided I’m finished freezing when plowing or hunting here in Montana. I have an Inferno heater on order from Side By Side Stuff.

I’m sure the instal instructions make sense, but has anybody installed one and wished they’d known something they learned installing it- before they did?

Second, it looks like the cold air intake is vented to the outside. Is it possible to run a duct from the cab so heated air is reheated, etc to help it get the cab warmer with all the places it can leak around the doors, etc.

BTW- SxS Suff has the P500/520 Falcon Ridge soft doors on sale for $139 regularly $465.

Thanks!


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I finally decided I’m finished freezing when plowing or hunting here in Montana. I have an Inferno heater on order from Side By Side Stuff.

I’m sure the instal instructions make sense, but has anybody installed one and wished they’d known something they learned installing it- before they did?

Second, it looks like the cold air intake is vented to the outside. Is it possible to run a duct from the cab so heated air is reheated, etc to help it get the cab warmer with all the places it can leak around the doors, etc.

BTW- SxS Suff has the P500/520 Falcon Ridge soft doors on sale for $139 regularly $465.

Thanks!


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I just ordered a set of those doors. They want like an extra $100 for zippered windows but it looks like they come zippered anyway so you can get the door open. I only plan on running them in the winter and for $150 I'm not expecting them to seal very well. Thanks BHB.
 
futzin

futzin

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I just ordered a set of those doors. They want like an extra $100 for zippered windows but it looks like they come zippered anyway so you can get the door open. I only plan on running them in the winter and for $150 I'm not expecting them to seal very well. Thanks BHB.

Now, you're finished with it! :p
 
Scoop

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Second, it looks like the cold air intake is vented to the outside. Is it possible to run a duct from the cab so heated air is reheated, etc to help it get the cab warmer with all the places it can leak around the doors, etc.
Not a 500/520, but I installed an Ice Crusher heater in my P1K5. The air intake for that is on the inside of the cab (under the dash pointing down). If you can figure out a way to route your intake to pull air in from the cab, I think that would be a much gooder idea.

Gooder
 
MarlinWalker

MarlinWalker

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This guy did the very thing you are looking for. He used a 3d printer to make the routing. I have always wanted to do that with my system but never got around to it. Maybe it would be an excuse to buy a 3d printer??

 
bowhunterbill

bowhunterbill

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Good information, thanks. The Inferno arrived today UPS so it’s time to get serious.


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The_Frontiersmn

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Good information, thanks. The Inferno arrived today UPS so it’s time to get serious.


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Once temperatures get below freezing you're going to want to unplug the radiator fan and cover the radiator. It will make a massive difference in heat output.
 
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DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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I finally decided I’m finished freezing when plowing or hunting here in Montana. I have an Inferno heater on order from Side By Side Stuff.

I’m sure the instal instructions make sense, but has anybody installed one and wished they’d known something they learned installing it- before they did?

Second, it looks like the cold air intake is vented to the outside. Is it possible to run a duct from the cab so heated air is reheated, etc to help it get the cab warmer with all the places it can leak around the doors, etc.

BTW- SxS Suff has the P500/520 Falcon Ridge soft doors on sale for $139 regularly $465.

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
good luck - stare at it a while, re-stare, drink a beer or two - then plow into mounting the heater core, if ya want to recicr air, I am sure between stove pipe, pvc, etc you can come up with an adapter to get the flex hose on the intake to recicr the warm air.....
 
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john790

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If you pull your air from outside the cab your cab will be postive.That means all your cab leaks will try to push cold air out.This works real well at low speeds only.
 
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bowhunterbill

bowhunterbill

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If you pull your air from outside the cab your cab will be postive.That means all your cab leaks will try to push cold air out.This works real well at low speeds only.

That’s a really good point. I think if I seal that opening in the lower doors with pieces the foam insulation sheets used on foundations, and find some thick rubber moulding for the bottom it may would help. I’ll start a new thread on the topic.


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bowhunterbill

bowhunterbill

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Bozeman, MT
Once temperatures get below freezing you're going to want to unplug the radiator fan and cover the radiator. It will make a massive difference in heat output.

Thanks. All the more reason to install an inexpensive ‘analog’ water temp gauge next to the switch when I install it.

When the temps get really cold here, I’m primarily using the P5 for plowing.


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T

The_Frontiersmn

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Thanks. All the more reason to install an inexpensive ‘analog’ water temp gauge next to the switch when I install it.

When the temps get really cold here, I’m primarily using the P5 for plowing.


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I haven't had any issues just using the OEM digital temp gauge. As long as it's below freezing the heater seems to be a sufficient radiator by itself. I only overheated once last winter, and that was a warmer day where the snow was so sticky that it built up on the engine to the point that it overinsulated it. Also, if you have the stock gauge set to a setting other than temp, it will automatically switch to temp as soon as your engine gets too hot.
 
bowhunterbill

bowhunterbill

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May 31, 2019
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Bozeman, MT
I haven't had any issues just using the OEM digital temp gauge. As long as it's below freezing the heater seems to be a sufficient radiator by itself. I only overheated once last winter, and that was a warmer day where the snow was so sticky that it built up on the engine to the point that it overinsulated it. Also, if you have the stock gauge set to a setting other than temp, it will automatically switch to temp as soon as your engine gets too hot.

Thanks good to know


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bowhunterbill

bowhunterbill

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Started installing today. Instructions are straight forward. I stopped at moving the radiator hoses because I remembered reading here to only use Honda Blue antifreeze.

I found a small wood carving chisel worked well trimming the plastic after drilling a bunch of holes to create the openings for the defrost vents and switch. I rocked it hole to hole to cut, then shaved the opening to final size.

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The 2 ‘extra’ things I did was use metal hi temp duct tape to secure the flexible hose in addition to zip ties and taped the hose away from the steering linkage to avoid it wearing a hole with time.

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To be continued.




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Last edited:
bowhunterbill

bowhunterbill

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Finished it up. Instead of using the 90 degree pex connector and 2 lenghts of hose as in the instructions, I found a heater hose with a 90 degree bend at the local auto parts store. Eliminates 2 potential leaking connections and is neater.

Driving up and down our road to eliminate any air in the coolant system…. It pumps out heat!

9d38d0bc3533c503ec68a1d7e16525b2


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LandofCheese

LandofCheese

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Finished it up. Instead of using the 90 degree pex connector and 2 lenghts of hose as in the instructions, I found a heater hose with a 90 degree bend at the local auto parts store. Eliminates 2 potential leaking connections and is neater.

Driving up and down our road to eliminate any air in the coolant system…. It pumps out heat!

View attachment 406777


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Do you have a part number or size or anything for that 90 degree hose? I'm looking to install this heater soon as I've had it in the garage since last winter and love the idea of an easy less potential leaky solution.
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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Napa, Amazon, summit, all that is ex to get - jeez, double hose clamps!!!!
 
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