whos that?Why don't y'all ask Cory at C-Fab to do it?
I talked to him before in the past and offered my bike but he wasn’t interested didn’t think there would be enough people interested
as far as i know between this forum and the old forum i was in before this one cranked up there were 3 guys that were fabricating them for sale . but last one i seen around was about 2 yrs ago. and no manufacturer has ever made them. i have debated just cutting the tabs off the frame and moving them 3 inches forward then adding some support. but with that you have to either move the shock mount also on top which im not a fan of because i think it can only go over about 2 inches then redo the bottom one and should be fine. the only thing is finding the exact center line that mirrors the axle angle from behind to infront of the diffIve been checking in on this thread here and there out of curiosity. My wife used to have a P7-4 and it seems I looked for forward arched a-arms for hers with no luck. I remember I came across a detailed build thread somewhere of a guy that built his own. He used angle iron underneath the P7 going left to right and he set the P7 wheels in the angle iron with no tires on the wheels to square them up and take measurements from the frame tabs to the knuckles. I tried looking it up again to share the info and apparently its on honda pioneer forum dot com. I used to be a member over there but I cant remember my passwords over there because I havent been on in so long. If any of you are members look it up over there. Also, in searching for this info I came across a guy on facebook that has apparently built a set for his and will build them for other people too. I dont do facebook so I cant see all the details, but Im sure yall probably do, so check him out. I took a screenshot of his P7 for yall. Good luck to yall!
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I moved my a-arms forward on my P5 to keep the 35s from rubbing. Back when I did this though the only company that made them was outkast fabworx and they had gotten a reputation for taking peoples money and not delivering the product and just being an all around headache to deal with. So I just unplugged my a-arms, moved them around to the forward side of the tabs, built new tabs in front of the a-arms, and cut the old unused tabs off. I probably went forward maybe about 1 and 1/4" maybe, I cant remember the measurements. You would be going further forward, but it would be about the same process. It wasnt too awful hard. I documented it on here in a build thread and also on youtube if you wanted to see how I did it. I know what you mean about having to have the same angle going forward out of the diff as the angle is now going to the rear out of the diff to the knuckle so the axles wont get in a bind.as far as i know between this forum and the old forum i was in before this one cranked up there were 3 guys that were fabricating them for sale . but last one i seen around was about 2 yrs ago. and no manufacturer has ever made them. i have debated just cutting the tabs off the frame and moving them 3 inches forward then adding some support. but with that you have to either move the shock mount also on top which im not a fan of because i think it can only go over about 2 inches then redo the bottom one and should be fine. the only thing is finding the exact center line that mirrors the axle angle from behind to infront of the diff
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exactly but i think the p5 has different offset. than p7. i have to get exact measurements but i plan on changing my tie rods to hine joints when i do it, and add a little metal to the steering arm on portal mounts so my steering will be a little less full turn. but easier to turn. no power steering. lolI moved my a-arms forward on my P5 to keep the 35s from rubbing. Back when I did this though the only company that made them was outkast fabworx and they had gotten a reputation for taking peoples money and not delivering the product and just being an all around headache to deal with. So I just unplugged my a-arms, moved them around to the forward side of the tabs, built new tabs in front of the a-arms, and cut the old unused tabs off. I probably went forward maybe about 1 and 1/4" maybe, I cant remember the measurements. You would be going further forward, but it would be about the same process. It wasnt too awful hard. I documented it on here in a build thread and also on youtube if you wanted to see how I did it. I know what you mean about having to have the same angle going forward out of the diff as the angle is now going to the rear out of the diff to the knuckle so the axles wont get in a bind.
Yes the P5 is totally different. I found that out when toying with the idea of putting P7 a-arms on a P5. I just thought if you wanted to see the process I used it might help you with yours.exactly but i think the p5 has different offset. than p7. i have to get exact measurements but i plan on changing my tie rods to hine joints when i do it, and add a little metal to the steering arm on portal mounts so my steering will be a little less full turn. but easier to turn. no power steering. lol
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Cant wait to see what you come up with. Im following this thread for sure. Heres the link to my youtube where I did mine. I know yours is different though. Have a good one man and good luck!thats about right really. im not going to jack it up though. just gonna square the center of the axle at the diff. measure from center of ball joint to the square. double that. and either move the brackets which would mean adding to the frame line some more or just build a arms. View attachment 154432
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How well does the p5 turn those tiresCant wait to see what you come up with. Im following this thread for sure. Heres the link to my youtube where I did mine. I know yours is different though. Have a good one man and good luck!