portals and forward arched a arms

Alan_Vander

Alan_Vander

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Mar 19, 2019
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rosepine,la
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  1. 700-4
who would buy either of these if satv made them? E61f56dac7600b4b5fa5a9649e6f0aea

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Bradley-Thornton

Bradley-Thornton

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Nov 6, 2017
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Hattiesburg MS
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  1. 1000-5
If y'all did a group buy Say maybe 10 people and someone gave him a bike to use I bet he would do it.
 
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motorman18

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Apr 28, 2016
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Laurel, MS
I talked to him before in the past and offered my bike but he wasn’t interested didn’t think there would be enough people interested
 
Bradley-Thornton

Bradley-Thornton

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Nov 6, 2017
684
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Hattiesburg MS
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  1. 1000-5
I talked to him before in the past and offered my bike but he wasn’t interested didn’t think there would be enough people interested

Thats why I said you would need a group buy. Ask him how many you would need to get it done. Start a group buy and get that #.
 
Alan_Vander

Alan_Vander

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Mar 19, 2019
1,547
2,751
113
rosepine,la
Ownership

  1. 700-4
thats why it sounded familiar. weve actually been trying to get a few different companies to make forward arched a arms for a while. even back in 2014 the problem is getting enough people together to make that magic number. if i cant get a real world number from satv then im just gonna build my own and take a s*** ton of measurements and share them. cause i can fab them but i dont have the patience to build 20 sets.

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Bastardchild

Bastardchild

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Nov 3, 2016
1,978
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Orange Heights, fl
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  1. 500

  2. 1000-5
Ive been checking in on this thread here and there out of curiosity. My wife used to have a P7-4 and it seems I looked for forward arched a-arms for hers with no luck. I remember I came across a detailed build thread somewhere of a guy that built his own. He used angle iron underneath the P7 going left to right and he set the P7 wheels in the angle iron with no tires on the wheels to square them up and take measurements from the frame tabs to the knuckles. I tried looking it up again to share the info and apparently its on honda pioneer forum dot com. I used to be a member over there but I cant remember my passwords over there because I havent been on in so long. If any of you are members look it up over there. Also, in searching for this info I came across a guy on facebook that has apparently built a set for his and will build them for other people too. I dont do facebook so I cant see all the details, but Im sure yall probably do, so check him out. I took a screenshot of his P7 for yall. Good luck to yall! :)

Screenshot 20190910 191617 Google
 
Alan_Vander

Alan_Vander

Well-Known Member
Mar 19, 2019
1,547
2,751
113
rosepine,la
Ownership

  1. 700-4
Ive been checking in on this thread here and there out of curiosity. My wife used to have a P7-4 and it seems I looked for forward arched a-arms for hers with no luck. I remember I came across a detailed build thread somewhere of a guy that built his own. He used angle iron underneath the P7 going left to right and he set the P7 wheels in the angle iron with no tires on the wheels to square them up and take measurements from the frame tabs to the knuckles. I tried looking it up again to share the info and apparently its on honda pioneer forum dot com. I used to be a member over there but I cant remember my passwords over there because I havent been on in so long. If any of you are members look it up over there. Also, in searching for this info I came across a guy on facebook that has apparently built a set for his and will build them for other people too. I dont do facebook so I cant see all the details, but Im sure yall probably do, so check him out. I took a screenshot of his P7 for yall. Good luck to yall! :)

View attachment 154429
as far as i know between this forum and the old forum i was in before this one cranked up there were 3 guys that were fabricating them for sale . but last one i seen around was about 2 yrs ago. and no manufacturer has ever made them. i have debated just cutting the tabs off the frame and moving them 3 inches forward then adding some support. but with that you have to either move the shock mount also on top which im not a fan of because i think it can only go over about 2 inches then redo the bottom one and should be fine. the only thing is finding the exact center line that mirrors the axle angle from behind to infront of the diff

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Bastardchild

Bastardchild

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Nov 3, 2016
1,978
7,251
113
Orange Heights, fl
Ownership

  1. 500

  2. 1000-5
as far as i know between this forum and the old forum i was in before this one cranked up there were 3 guys that were fabricating them for sale . but last one i seen around was about 2 yrs ago. and no manufacturer has ever made them. i have debated just cutting the tabs off the frame and moving them 3 inches forward then adding some support. but with that you have to either move the shock mount also on top which im not a fan of because i think it can only go over about 2 inches then redo the bottom one and should be fine. the only thing is finding the exact center line that mirrors the axle angle from behind to infront of the diff

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I moved my a-arms forward on my P5 to keep the 35s from rubbing. Back when I did this though the only company that made them was outkast fabworx and they had gotten a reputation for taking peoples money and not delivering the product and just being an all around headache to deal with. So I just unplugged my a-arms, moved them around to the forward side of the tabs, built new tabs in front of the a-arms, and cut the old unused tabs off. I probably went forward maybe about 1 and 1/4" maybe, I cant remember the measurements. You would be going further forward, but it would be about the same process. It wasnt too awful hard. I documented it on here in a build thread and also on youtube if you wanted to see how I did it. I know what you mean about having to have the same angle going forward out of the diff as the angle is now going to the rear out of the diff to the knuckle so the axles wont get in a bind.
 
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Alan_Vander

Alan_Vander

Well-Known Member
Mar 19, 2019
1,547
2,751
113
rosepine,la
Ownership

  1. 700-4
I moved my a-arms forward on my P5 to keep the 35s from rubbing. Back when I did this though the only company that made them was outkast fabworx and they had gotten a reputation for taking peoples money and not delivering the product and just being an all around headache to deal with. So I just unplugged my a-arms, moved them around to the forward side of the tabs, built new tabs in front of the a-arms, and cut the old unused tabs off. I probably went forward maybe about 1 and 1/4" maybe, I cant remember the measurements. You would be going further forward, but it would be about the same process. It wasnt too awful hard. I documented it on here in a build thread and also on youtube if you wanted to see how I did it. I know what you mean about having to have the same angle going forward out of the diff as the angle is now going to the rear out of the diff to the knuckle so the axles wont get in a bind.
exactly but i think the p5 has different offset. than p7. i have to get exact measurements but i plan on changing my tie rods to hine joints when i do it, and add a little metal to the steering arm on portal mounts so my steering will be a little less full turn. but easier to turn. no power steering. lol

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Bastardchild

Bastardchild

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Nov 3, 2016
1,978
7,251
113
Orange Heights, fl
Ownership

  1. 500

  2. 1000-5
Im thinking you could jack it up and take the wheel off of the front, unbolt the shock, and jack the knuckle up to where its level off of the side of the frame. Then measure from the centerline of the knuckle to the frame with a square and put a little mark on the frame. Then using squares find the centerline of the front diff hole and put a little mark on the frame. Now measure between the marks you made. Lets say its 2". Now put a new mark on the frame 2" forward of the diff hole mark. Run your square out from this new mark towards your knuckle. The knuckle now needs to come forward until the centerline of the knuckle is inline with the end of the square. Im sure theres 100 different ways to do this. This is just the way I thought of, and Im sure I probably didnt do a good job of explaining it lol
 
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Bastardchild

Bastardchild

Well-Known Member
Nov 3, 2016
1,978
7,251
113
Orange Heights, fl
Ownership

  1. 500

  2. 1000-5
exactly but i think the p5 has different offset. than p7. i have to get exact measurements but i plan on changing my tie rods to hine joints when i do it, and add a little metal to the steering arm on portal mounts so my steering will be a little less full turn. but easier to turn. no power steering. lol

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Yes the P5 is totally different. I found that out when toying with the idea of putting P7 a-arms on a P5. I just thought if you wanted to see the process I used it might help you with yours. :)
 
Alan_Vander

Alan_Vander

Well-Known Member
Mar 19, 2019
1,547
2,751
113
rosepine,la
Ownership

  1. 700-4
thats about right really. im not going to jack it up though. just gonna square the center of the axle at the diff. measure from center of ball joint to the square. double that. and either move the brackets which would mean adding to the frame line some more or just build a arms. 77444c1860116a0731f0a7aa646c7082

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Bastardchild

Bastardchild

Well-Known Member
Nov 3, 2016
1,978
7,251
113
Orange Heights, fl
Ownership

  1. 500

  2. 1000-5
thats about right really. im not going to jack it up though. just gonna square the center of the axle at the diff. measure from center of ball joint to the square. double that. and either move the brackets which would mean adding to the frame line some more or just build a arms. View attachment 154432

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Cant wait to see what you come up with. Im following this thread for sure. Heres the link to my youtube where I did mine. I know yours is different though. Have a good one man and good luck! :)
 
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Alan_Vander

Alan_Vander

Well-Known Member
Mar 19, 2019
1,547
2,751
113
rosepine,la
Ownership

  1. 700-4
id imagine with the lower gears of the 500 and 6 inch portals probably as good as i turn the 32s if not better.

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