Running power to a outside shed

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Sr56

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Anyone know an electrician in the Cleveland or Chattanooga area that could do a small wiring job? Need to run power to a shed about 10 ft from the box. I’m fairly handy but electrical stuff freezes my brain regarding wire size needed, breaker size etc.


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AC wiring is pretty simple. What are you planning on running on the circuit? Lights and basic power tools? Or are you thinking 220 circuit for bigger air compressor or welder?
 
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Sr56

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One 220 for a thru the wall ac/ heat combo unit and 110 for 5 outlets, 2 recessed led lights and one ceiling fan. We ordered the building with the outlets and ceiling lights wired and wall switch. There is a breaker box also installed with a 30 amp breaker and 4 or 5 slots remaining. So just need a box for the ac/heat outlet/plug and then wire run from 100 amp breaker box in adjacent carport.

I did get one quote that gave me sticker shock of over $2,000

The shed is a studio/office for my daughter so computer, lights and the ac/heat unit. I’m doing all the inside finishing with insulation, drywall, bead board, trim and flooring.

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10 ga wire is sufficient for 30 amps, but if you’re running heat and AC I think 30 amps is marginal. My heat pump is on a 20 amp breaker.
Dig a trench, run some 6 ga in a conduit, and put a 50 amp breaker in the shed. There are code requirements concerning depth and warning tape, but I’m not familiar with that. One of our electricians will come along soon…
 
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There are code requirements concerning depth and warning tape, but I’m not familiar with that.
30" to 36" below finish grade. Cover conduit with a few inches of dirt or stone and run red caution tape over the top of that and then backfill. Run an extra conduit in the trench while you're at it. It's cheap and you'll want it later whether you know it or not.
 
NTCPrezJB

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If your not comfortable putting your hand in the breaker box to wire in the breaker then I can’t recommend you doing it yourself. 110 will bite but 220 is plenty to make for a really bad day. You could probably save yourself a little by running the lines and then have the electrician verify it before you cover anything and he does the final termination into the main panel. Ask though before you start. It might not save as you as much as you think.
 
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Sr56

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Thanks all for the tips. I don’t mind spending the cash, just want to not get ripped. I agree sometimes it’s worth it to get a pro for certain parts of a project.

@GovtMule - address is Harrison but closer to Birchwood. 15-20 minutes from Cleveland.


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When getting quotes mention the 2020 NEC Code revisions, especially if you have to pull permits. IMO given the labor effort versus cost of wire, add up all potential amp draw and consider at least one size larger guage wire as a margin. I ran separate stranded THWN wire versus sheathed romex inside buried conduit (with warning tape above) to my outbuilding with a GFCI breaker. Might be worth hiring it out if unsure.
 
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Mudder

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Ten feet of trench, conduit and wire for $2000. I’d do it myself. Even if you have to rent a backhoe for a half day you’re less than $300.
When I ran water and electrical 150 feet out to the barn, rented a walk behind trencher, thinking it cut down to a 2-3 foot deep trench. Worth every penny given Georgia rocks.
 
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When I ran water and electrical 150 feet out to the barn, rented a walk behind trencher, thinking it cut down to a 2-3 foot deep trench. Worth every penny given Georgia rocks.

Exactly what I used to run power out to the garage when I built it. 👍
 
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Need to run power to a shed about 10 ft from the box.
Only 10’
use a shovel and trench you 2’ deep the 10’ length. Get some 10-2 underground romex (gray color) burry it in your trench. Hook up a 20amp single throw breaker in the box. Its just a shed, no need for fancy wancy.
I did this to my shed 30’ from the house 18yrs ago feeds lights and a few 110 circuits, no problems.
 
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Only 10’
use a shovel and trench you 2’ deep the 10’ length. Get some 10-2 underground romex (gray color) burry it in your trench. Hook up a 20amp single throw breaker in the box. Its just a shed, no need for fancy wancy.
I did this to my shed 30’ from the house 18yrs ago feeds lights and a few 110 circuits, no problems.

He wants 220v.
 
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He wants 220v.
Sh!t i didnt see that in his second post. Just read the first one. He might be ok still with the 10-2 depending on the window shaker output. The 10-2 can easily feed a small sub panel box with 4-110 outlets like i did in the garage at the cabin. What Id like to know is what size and rating of his window shaker For sure.
 
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Sr56

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Sh!t i didnt see that in his second post. Just read the first one. He might be ok still with the 10-2 depending on the window shaker output. The 10-2 can easily feed a small sub panel box with 4-110 outlets like i did in the garage at the cabin. What Id like to know is what size and rating of his window shaker For sure.
742ec549f021452349eb1bf4ffa7a674

Here are the specs of the shaker…I plan to put in as a thru the wall box instead of the window.


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View attachment 353445

Here are the specs of the shaker…I plan to put in as a thru the wall box instead of the window.


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Wow! Thats a 1-1/2 ton unit, how big is your shed? Just for reference, a 1-1/2 tons of AC will do a 5 to 800 square foot house. you should be able to hang meat in that shed 😂

Back to your electrical, with that Window shaker/HP combo you can get away with a 25-30amp double throw breaker max for it. Should say what they recommend for a breaker on the tag of the WS. You can still feed a small sub panel with underground 10-2 for the WS, some lights and a few outlets using 2-4 15amp breakers In the sub panel With a 50amp double throw feeding it from the house. as an example, weve done 10-2 for a 5 ton AC alone many times so a WS and a few breakers should be fine imo.
unless your planing on making this shed a shop like Norm Abrums Then your talkin some bigger gauge wire and alot more That sounds like your first bid is at.
 
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