BOX1

Running power to a outside shed

Vikes79

Vikes79

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The better question is what is going on in the other 100A panel.

running a 50A sub off the 100A might be fine if the 100A is lightly loaded, but you really screw yourself or future owner in the future if you want to do something in the garage with the 100a panel.
 
S

Sr56

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Wow! Thats a 1-1/2 ton unit, how big is your shed? Just for reference, a 1-1/2 tons of AC will do a 5 to 800 square foot house. you should be able to hang meat in that shed

Back to your electrical, with that Window shaker/HP combo you can get away with a 25-30amp double throw breaker max for it. Should say what they recommend for a breaker on the tag of the WS. You can still feed a small sub panel with underground 10-2 for the WS, some lights and a few outlets using 2-4 15amp breakers In the sub panel With a 50amp double throw feeding it from the house. as an example, weve done 10-2 for a 5 ton AC alone many times so a WS and a few breakers should be fine imo.
unless your planing on making this shed a shop like Norm Abrums Then your talkin some bigger gauge wire and alot more That sounds like your first bid is at.

Thanks Remy. The bldg is 240 sg ft so it should be ok with ac and heat. I would prefer a mini-split if was going to be living qtrs but this will be office / studio type. For the price dif of a mini-split ( quote of $4500 for a Mitsubishi) I opted for this option at under $700.


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S

Sr56

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The better question is what is going on in the other 100A panel.

running a 50A sub off the 100A might be fine if the 100A is lightly loaded, but you really screw yourself or future owner in the future if you want to do something in the garage with the 100a panel.

The original circuit from the 100 amp panel is two boat lifts (110v) and two lights. The lifts would not be running simultaneously and usually before dark.


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Remington

Remington

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Thanks Remy. The bldg is 240 sg ft so it should be ok with ac and heat. I would prefer a mini-split if was going to be living qtrs but this will be office / studio type. For the price dif of a mini-split ( quote of $4500 for a Mitsubishi) I opted for this option at under $700.


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Yup, minisplits are expensive. If your not using it that much, its not worth the cost. They can also be a bear to fix. I say that with experience lol.
 
HeadedOut

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Wow. Wow wow wow lol

a couple of these suggestions are just wow! Talk about screwing over you or the next guy if you ever sell!

I’ll say that here in eastern Washington, $2,000 would get you a trench, conduit between the panels depending on location and IF they’re up to code already, and wire pulled between boxes.

If a licensed electrician touches preexisting electrical, we have to, by code, bring it up to current code spec. If you had a quote for time, materials and permit pulls, for $2,xxx 😍 I would consider you crazy for not taking that deal! By all means, if you had a friend, or if I came through town I would absolutely help to make it cheaper. But man o man that’s a damn DAMN good price for the little you need.

Look over your quote and make sure that it doesn’t say “upon further inspection” or “pending code issues” or something like that. If it’s a guaranteed job done at that cost, IF they run into code issues, it’s on them because they didn’t quote it right.
 
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Sr56

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To finish this thread….found an electric company that did the job for $950. They came on a Friday afternoon to look and came back Saturday am. Two guys were done in 3 hrs. So glad I didn’t go with the first estimate.


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Remington

Remington

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To finish this thread….found an electric company that did the job for $950. They came on a Friday afternoon to look and came back Saturday am. Two guys were done in 3 hrs. So glad I didn’t go with the first estimate.


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$158 an hr plus material and permit?
Hope they charged the second guy helper rate.
 
JenElio

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Is this Thread Closed ??
Catclosedoor cat
 
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