P1000 size and interchangeability of rear roll bar from 1000-5 to 1000-3

[Ronbow411]

are the roll bars the same for each as to add a roof over the bed on a 3. on a 2021.all the flanges are there to bolt to. anybody done this?

 

[Admin]

 

[HondaTech]

I believe people have found the 3 seat bed is too wide to fit the 5 seat roll cage.

 

[Ronbow411]

At my duck club we have 4- 5 seaters the flanges on my 3 are identical i guess they use the same frame for both I was hoping i could get a OEM 5 seater roll cage,i havent found any aftermkt i liked to roof the bed yet. thks for your reply Honda tech.

 

[ClayWelder]

Yes, sadly the 1k-5 bed is much narrower than the 1k-3 bed. The frames are identical, I believe, at least in as much as the ROPS bars go. They will bolt up just fine, aside from the bed in the way. My idea I am kicking around is to get another set of 1k-5 rear ROPS bars (sold the first set as I didn't have time to mess with it and needed the money back until I figured this out) and take some great measurements of the bed overlap (width from the frame to outside of bed), remove the bed, and bolt up the ROPS. Then see what my interference measurement is. I want to be able to mount a factory 1k-5 roof. So I will basically identify where I can cut the ROPS at the top (vertical tube) and the bottom between the mount and the mandrel bend (horizontal tube). then basically that section will move out about 3" or maybe 3-1/2". Bottom tube extension will be an oversize tube/pipe to fit as a sleeve extension. The top extension will be basically a set of 1/8" plates in a parallelogram shape, maybe 3" tall, and same width as the offset I need to create. the cuts will be at the same height, and the extension plates will run from center of tube (upper) to center of tube (lower). Almost a diamond shape, actually. Tack it all up, do the other side, make sure its all square and back to "original" as far as the upper part of the ROPS (roof fitment!) then weld it up. And I will fabricate and add in 1/8" plates to box out the splice, to keep water out as well as add strength. Yes I am a certified welder, and certified weld inspector, so I do know what I am doing. It may be a while before I get around to doing this project, so here is the general plan if anyone wants to make use of it. This is the "best" way I know to make a set of factory roof compatible ROPS without a complete custom job. If anyone needs more details I will be happy to provide them, just DM me. Thanks!

 

[Ronbow411]

Finally a member with knowledge bout this project.I didn't measure the bed I assumed they were same for the 3 and 5 seater

 

[Ronbow411]

Is a oem rear ROPS even available from Honda to modify and I hate to think how much $

 

[Ronbow411]

I would love to talk on the phone bout this.

 

[Ronbow411]

At my duck club we own 4 1k-5s and I did not notice the bed width just looked at the flanges thks for the info 706 707 6315 Ron

 

[Ronbow411]

Is a oem rear ROPS even available from Honda to modify and I hate to think how much $

I'm not nailed to the fitment being compatible with the oem plastic roof.there is a aftermarket AL. That I like better and want to put a rack up top for light decoys.

 

[ClayWelder]

The rear ROPS bars (left, right, & cross bar) are available from Partzilla

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/side-by-side/2018/sxs1000m5d-2ac-pioneer-1000-5-deluxe/roll-bar

for @$500 each. In the US. In Canada, they get a LOT more expensive. Plus international shipping, makes it worthwhile to source a good used set if possible. Realistically if you know anyone with GREAT fabrication skills (welding, bending tube/pipe, etc), they can make a custom set for you. Just use the proper DOM tubing material (45mm OD) and you should be fine. But, you need to be sure that the custom bars “profile” on the top will match factory spec so that any roof that you purchase will fit without any further modifications. Additional holes in your roof will leak, sooner or later, if you do any serious off roading due to vibration, and general flexing of the chassis and therefore the ROPS bars. Also, if you use anything aftermarket or custom for ROPS, your insurance may have a fit if you make an injury claim from any crash, especially a rollover. Just saying. OH, and it is worthwhile to investigate in insulation for that aluminum roof. It will get HOT in the sun….. !! IF you have access to someone’s 1K-5, you can measure everything you need to, to match the bar placement for roof compatibility. Or, just buy the 45mm clamps and make your own roof. If you do make your own roof, or modify the various aluminum ones, you can place your own holes wherever you want them. Any previous holes can be patched by welding, or just a small bolt with flat washers, sealant, and a lock nut. Even an acorn lock nut so it gives a rounded profile. Also a custom roof gives you the option to make it a little wider for additional rain and sun protection on the sides, if that is a concern. Or, you can fabricate aluminum or even UHDP add-on side panels and bolt or rivet them in, with an automotive grade non-curing sealer so it will stay flexible and keep the joint sealed against rain water/ice-snow melt etc. Or add a sun visor/shade to the front of your roof. I had made originally a plywood roof when I first bought my side by side in 2017. It was heavy to be sure, but I made it about 12” longer in the front, 8” wider on the sides and rear, and the extra protection from sun and rain was amazing. I use my P1k-3 for work inspecting on the pipelines. It’s a beast. Powers through everything. The dual clutch lets me pause at the top of a steep grade, drop it in low, and with 4wd Lock, I have positive control of the descent without having to only use brakes. Makes it a lot safer IMHO. One of these days I’ll post some picks of my ride. I’m just so damn busy with work and reports.

 

[Soaz1000]

Thought I'd pass this along. Saw this on CL. 2021 Pioneer 1000-5 Roll Cage - atvs, utvs, snowmobiles - by owner -...