P1000 I think my rear diff is bad

[ODAMO]

Well I'm at a loss of what to do. Getting new OEM axles is gonna run me about a grand but the dealer is saying the left side axle's stub out is 1\2 inch shorter than OEM spec which could cause shifting in the diff causing the locker to engage and disengage intermittently.

Does that sound possible to anyone? It makes sense I guess. Currently only does it when turning left.

Machine currently has allballs rear axles from the dealer I bought it from. The other option is just leave it in 2wd all the time and say the hell with turf mode.

Thoughts? Looking for ideas as it's totally possible that the new OEM axles wouldn't fix anything...

The axle length has nothing to do with locker function. Is the dealer implying the spline engagement is sliding out when turning? Take the allballs out and replace with factory oem units if you think they are bad. What exactly is it doing when you turn left again?
It sounds like you're thinking a problem exists when in fact its operating properly. Whatever you feel it's doing, does it do it in reverse when turning also?

 

[lukpy8810]

The axle length has nothing to do with locker function. Is the dealer implying the spline engagement is sliding out when turning? Take the allballs out and replace with factory oem units if you think they are bad. What exactly is it doing when you turn left again?
It sounds like you're thinking a problem exists when in fact its operating properly. Whatever you feel it's doing, does it do it in reverse when turning also?

I don't know if it does it im reverse also it's still at the dealer unfortunately. The rear diff is limited slip right? So it can lock up on its own correct?

And the original issue was that the diff would violently disengage with a very audible clunk\pop. when starting out if you were in turf mode even with cables adjusted to spec. The diff was in like new condition when they opened it up.

Currently when turning left the dealer says the lock will engage and pop out when in turf mode. Honda is telling them that since the stub out going into the diff is 1\2inch shorter than OEM that this could cause things to shift slightly in the diff allowing the locker to engage intermittently...? Idk I'm at a loss... I didn't think there was movement of any parts side to side, except the locker, in the rear diff.

Also the allballs are brand-new maybe 3 miles on them (yes 3)

 

[ODAMO]

I don't know if it does it im reverse also it's still at the dealer unfortunately. The rear diff is limited slip right? So it can lock up on its own correct?

And the original issue was that the diff would violently disengage with a very audible clunk\pop. when starting out if you were in turf mode even with cables adjusted to spec. The diff was in like new condition when they opened it up.

Currently when turning left the dealer says the lock will engage and pop out when in turf mode. Honda is telling them that since the stub out going into the diff is 1\2inch shorter than OEM that this could cause things to shift slightly in the diff allowing the locker to engage intermittently...? Idk I'm at a loss... I didn't think there was movement of any parts side to side, except the locker, in the rear diff.

Also the allballs are brand-new maybe 3 miles on them (yes 3)

No, it cannot lock all on its own. The design is nothing like your standard clutch pack lsd found in cars. If they measured the allballs axle and its shorter than oem then thats probably the problem.

 

[lukpy8810]

No, it cannot lock all on its own. The design is nothing like your standard clutch pack lsd found in cars. If they measured the allballs axle and its shorter than oem then thats probably the problem.

Even if it's just the stub out that goes into the diff that's too short? Just trying to make an informed decision before I drop 1000$

 

[DRZRon1]

I smell stinky bulls*** and incompetence

U r into it for $1k and nothing solved other than exploratory surgery and parts that aren’t needed

my advice is to go get it and drive it, technically the axle length has no effect on locking and unlocking rear diff

If the axle length is short - it will simply pull out of the diff - I’ve only seen this on really bent frames on the front and I ain’t a mechanic


let’s get technical - it’s the rear. - it goes up and down

Go to them and have them jack it up to simulate the suspension travel and show u the axle popping in and out of rear diff

 

[Remington]

Also the allballs are brand-new maybe 3 miles on them (yes 3)

Those axels suck BTW
NoHmo
I had 2 sets that didnt last a ride.

Just trying to make an informed decision before I drop 1000$

I Call like I did before FUBAR!
Ho get it, dont pay a GD dime and take it home and drive it. If u still feel theres an issue, make a trip to another GOOD repeatable dealer. Do some research and find one that is a highly specialized Honda mechanic. Its obvious these tool boxes dont know there assholes from a hole in the ground and are running circles around the rig while
Running up your tab! Talking to Honda Tech support or not. Happens in my trade with companies all the time. Its a Cut throat industry. Time to move on!!!

 

[ODAMO]

Even if it's just the stub out that goes into the diff that's too short? Just trying to make an informed decision before I drop 1000$

If the stub shaft is too short and is indeed coming out of the splined face cam when you turn left and then slipping back in when straightening out there would be evidence of that in the form of burrs and scuffs on the splines as they would be rotating at different speeds while trying to re-engage and that may be the Bang your hearing

 

[lukpy8810]

If the stub shaft is too short and is indeed coming out of the splined face cam when you turn left and then slipping back in when straightening out there would be evidence of that in the form of burrs and scuffs on the splines as they would be rotating at different speeds while trying to re-engage and that may be the Bang your hearing

The kicker is that it only happens in turf mode

 

[ODAMO]

The kicker is that it only happens in turf mode

I'll bet thats whats happening. When its locked both right and left outputs are forced to rotate at the same speed. When unlocked(turf mode) your left output begins to spin at twice the rpms as the right as soon as the shaft decouples and when it recouples it has to deal with the mismatched speeds.

 

[lukpy8810]

I'll bet thats whats happening. When its locked both right and left outputs are forced to rotate at the same speed. When unlocked(turf mode) your left output begins to spin at twice the rpms as the right as soon as the shaft decouples and when it recouples it has to deal with the mismatched speeds.

To further this assumption. They called allballs with the axle measurements and allballs was like those arent even the correct axles for the machine

 

[ODAMO]

To further this assumption. They called allballs with the axle measurements and allballs was like those arent even the correct axles for the machine

See post 33.
And just get the oem axles and be done with it.

 

[lukpy8810]

See post 33.
And just get the oem axles and be done with it.

Already on order!

 

[ODAMO]

Already on order!

The dealer should pay for them at the very least

 

[Remington]

To further this assumption. They called allballs with the axle measurements and allballs was like those arent even the correct axles for the machine

All the more reason to go get it and…..
TAKE IT HOME!

 

[lukpy8810]

All the more reason to go get it and…..
TAKE IT HOME!

The bad axles are from the original selling dealer. I just don't have time to do the work they are doing. I already replaced the front knuckles (cuz it was easier that bringing the old ones to a shop to press out the bad bearings and press in new ones) and I would have been rushed to do what they are doing for me. Sometimes it's just easier to have the dealer do it, not necessarily cheaper.

 

[ODAMO]

You wouldn't think that a dealer would be so incompetent or willing to screw over a customer

 

[lukpy8810]

You wouldn't think that a dealer would be so incompetent or willing to screw over a customer

Clearly the one I bought from is.

 

[Remington]

The bad axles are from the original selling dealer. I just don't have time to do the work they are doing. I already replaced the front knuckles (cuz it was easier that bringing the old ones to a shop to press out the bad bearings and press in new ones) and I would have been rushed to do what they are doing for me. Sometimes it's just easier to have the dealer do it, not necessarily cheaper.

 

[lukpy8810]

View attachment 411328

Lol well played

 

[DRZRon1]

is this resolved by chance