No, it doesn't. The cable has no less tension in that configuration than if you hooked right to where the pulley is located. Using a snatch block in that type of orientation may work, but it doesn't provide benefit.
Perhaps the picture just makes the angles look odd, maybe the angle on the cable passing through the pulley points up more in real life, and that's not how it looks in the picture.
I take the statement above back. You can disagree all you want, my original assessment is correct.
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My plow setup does not use the pully, it goes directly to the push tubes where you have the pully mounted, works great this way. Probably lifts twice as fast, which is fine with me.
I can understand the physics involved, I can't explain it, but I understand.
I made my repair and really looked over the pulley, it doesn't look like there is any damage or extra space, so I finished plowing.
I do have an issue though. My less than perfect repair job, I used 3 U-bolts and they are taking away how much toom I have when raising the plow. I have to be careful or I will suck those U-bolts back into the pulley. I need to find a way to shorten the tow strap.
I made my repair and really looked over the pulley, it doesn't look like there is any damage or extra space, so I finished plowing.
I do have an issue though. My less than perfect repair job, I used 3 U-bolts and they are taking away how much toom I have when raising the plow. I have to be careful or I will suck those U-bolts back into the pulley. I need to find a way to shorten the tow strap.
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@Johnny just a thought to try....have your cable go over the top of that pully and hook back to the cross bar between the push tubes. One, that won't make the cable angle so drastic coming off the roller and two, it will give all the lift room you want. If need I can get picture of mine later and post it up. On my old kaw 4- wheeler warn actually had a cut out there for the winch hook.
You can get a round sling (or flat web sling) in any length. double or triple wrap the sling until it is no slack. You might need a couple different lengths to try till you get the correct one. On another note, I can not tell for sure from your picture, but have you ever heard the phrase "never saddle a dead horse"? On a cable clamp, the round part should go over the part of the line that is short...the dead end. The saddle, goes over the live end (the part going to the winch) If you get it backwards the clamps will slip...
With the hook end of the cable going to the bumper, the cable is a two part line, and the winch has twice the strength it has in a straight pull.
if you hook the hook end to back to the push tubes it is NOT in a two part line, it is still only one, and there is no reduction of stress on the winch or line, but the plow will move twice as fast... Hope that all makes sense!!
To Hometeam, love that idea, I will try that.
To Up2it, lol, of course, I should have figured I would get it backwards! I looked and Im sort of in between.
That's why I love this place, thanks for all the info and I have successfully hi-jacked this post, sorry to the original poster, I'm just a sponge, I love to learn new things, even if it's new techniques to clean a toilet
To Up2it, lol, of course, I should have figured I would get it backwards! I looked and Im sort of in between.
That's why I love this place, thanks for all the info and I have successfully hi-jacked this post, sorry to the original poster, I'm just a sponge, I love to learn new things, even if it's new techniques to clean a toilet
No problem. This is for the most part good stuff. I actually learned something about saddling a dead horse but I don't see the benefit as your not going to get too far unless you slid the horse off a cliff.
Please keep in mind though, if you change the routing per Hometeam's suggestion, you have cut the mechanical advantage of the cable system in half, doubling the cable tension and lift speed exactly as Up2lt stated in his last paragraph. If that isn't a concern to you then there should be no problem.
Carney is right with his statement here. My thought is that pulley is so small it doesnt do a good job letting the cable run through it and that is really the stress point. It will speed up how it picks it up. Ideally if u had bigger pulley on bearings like shackle and double it back that would be the ideal setup. It was late when I wrote this and meant a snatch block not shackle...
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How did you make out mounting this shifter knob? I would like to use this setup as well if it works.Curious how the plow operates on the Honda's compared to my old 800XP???
I have the plow and all the parts needed to assemble and mount the plow on the 1000-3 but I am planning out my wiring on the plow and noticed some big differences between how Polaris and Honda mounts and operates the plow.
To be honest I think Polaris has a better system in how the winch/plow operates but Honda has better parts that should last much longer.
My first question is about how the Winch is restricted from over tensioning the plow mounts while raising the plow. My Polaris had a mechanical limit switch that would contact the bumper and disconnect coil power to the retract contactor?
Is this not needed on the Honda for some reason or do you just need to be careful while using it? I am not opposed to installing a magnetic proximity sensor to my wiring but before I dig in to the wiring I was curious if I am over thinking this.
Picture of Polaris limit switch:
Proximity sensor:
My second question relates to the operation of the winch while plowing. My Polaris has a toggle switch located on the shift handle knob but Honda expects you to use the cable remote controller or a toggle switch on the dash. Will the Polaris s*** knob fit the Honda?
Here is a picture of what I am talking about:
This is the one I had:
This is the one I want to try:
After all the feedback I decided to take a different approach and bought a warn wireless controller. I'll have the toggle switch on the dash and the wireless controller to run the plow. It also seem there is no need for the prox cutout as everyone says the plow movement range is very large. The odds of over stressing the mounts are low.
I'm still waiting on my new front plastics before I can get everything install. Patience is running out quickly!
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