P1000 2016 P1 Piston and Ring replacement

Todd627

Todd627

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Well my P1 has been at the shop for two months, which is fine by me. I don't have to walk by it and get disgusted every time I'm in my shop. Did call, intake valves very wallowed out. New head is on the way. At 4,560 miles. I recommend never buying anything first year out.
That sucks Smitty.
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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Well my P1 has been at the shop for two months, which is fine by me. I don't have to walk by it and get disgusted every time I'm in my shop. Did call, intake valves very wallowed out. New head is on the way. At 4,560 miles. I recommend never buying anything first year out.
I smell bulls***, POIDH on the wallowing, really? - the other member on here has pistons out and goin back in - in a couple of hours - no cases to split, something is amiss here
 
Smitty335

Smitty335

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I smell bulls***, POIDH on the wallowing, really? - the other member on here has pistons out and goin back in - in a couple of hours - no cases to split, something is amiss here
2016 P1versus the later models.
 
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DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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Well, yabutt, why would they make such a big change in an engine? I mean it's a 1000 cc twin with a DCT transmission. Disassembly shouldn't be all that different. The Talon has basically the same engine - pull head, remove oil pan, remove rod caps, push pistons out the top.

But the Japanese have done stranger things. 😏
is this fixed yet?

part numbers for the crankcase sets are the same for a '16, '17, '18, etc.......

no mechanic - but, if they are not honing/sleeving/nickasiling whatever the bores and just swapping pistons and rings, it looks like a very very long couple of hour job - as CID said - take all the crap off to get to the head, remove head, drop skid\oil pan, undo piston rods and push up and out- push new ones back in, bolt up and put all the crap back on

not sure what carbon deposits means - from my limited experience it could just be loaded up a little from a bad valve seal, etc. - they all have carbon on the top - thats good - its been firing

yes they have to split the cases if they are replacing the cylinder "block"/ crankcase halve(s) or sending out for repairs - whole bunch of extra hours to remove engine and take apart and put back together

if its eating oil, someone providing the bill to you has data\readings showing its the bore out, rings out, etc. of spec.
 
tjoreo

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I'm very sorry for your situation. If I remember right there was a service bulletin about the clamps on the intake boots not being clamped correctly. I never took mine back to the dealer, but I remember Hondatech recommending to put a 10mm allen wrench to check the gap. I checked mine and it seemed to be ok. Not that it helps any but just curious if it might have been sucking dirt after the filter?
 
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Smitty335

Smitty335

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I'm very sorry for your situation. If I remember right there was a service bulletin about the clamps on the intake boots not being clamped correctly. I never took mine back to the dealer, but I remember Hondatech recommending to put a 10mm allen wrench to check the gap. I checked mine and it seemed to be ok. Not that it helps any but just curious if it might have been sucking dirt after the filter?
Yep, that was early on.
 
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