P1000 2021 Pioneer 1000-5 LE Dual Battery Kit

T

Taylor10

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Considering a dual battery setup but not sure it's necessary, looking for advice. I will only be running with a winch, wiper, a couple USB ports and possible a light bar further down the road. Is the dual battery necessary for those few items or will I be okay with just the main stock battery setup?
 
Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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I wouldn’t say it was necessary but winches are battery killers and it’s always better to have more than you need. And that 12” light bar on the bumper turns into a 52” light bar before you know it. It’s and easy mod that adds peace of mind.
 
Hondasxs

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Hi.
You will be fine without one. It's not really required.

There is a old theory that you need one for the clutches. This has been fixed.

Biggest reason you need a dual battery is if you need lots of key OFF power or have a extra needs for your winch beyond basic seldom recovery.

Regarding clutches. It's a manual, auto shifting, machine. Treat it like a manual truck in regards to clutch wear and you won't have a issue.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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Taylor10

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Thanks, answers a lot of questions. I think I’ll be good without the kit for the time being.
 
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HondaRed16

HondaRed16

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Hi.
You will be fine without one. It's not really required.

There is a old theory that you need one for the clutches. This has been fixed.

Biggest reason you need a dual battery is if you need lots of key OFF power or have a extra needs for your winch beyond basic seldom recovery.

Regarding clutches. It's a manual, auto shifting, machine. Treat it like a manual truck in regards to clutch wear and you won't have a issue.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Interesting; the what do you mean exactly, always shift in manual mode?
 
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Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Interesting; the what do you mean exactly, always shift in manual mode?
No. has nothing to do with shifting and more with how you work the clutches.

Remember your old manual truck/car?
You wouldn't hold the gas if it wasn't going anywhere, would you?
So why would you do this same thing to your Pioneer 1000/Talon?

If you are stuck in a situation/mud and you are pressing the gas...
If the wheels are not turning the clutches are slipping.
Do this over and over and you will burn them up.
 
red1329

red1329

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i have had the clutch dis Engauge on me many times...

example one: so when pulling yourself out of a mud hole you want your tires spinning to help move the unit.. not spinning super fast but spinning still.. also rpm over idle will help keep the voltage up. so you need to be ability to winch and run the power to the tranny at the same time.

example two: when plowing snow, when I'm lifting my plow up and I'm moving back words at the same time. when the plow hits the stop point it puts the winch under max load for a split second while I'm still moving so it knock the clutch out for a split second.

to avoid all this you can do the true dual battery system like everyone talks about. or you can simply get another battery and wire them together.. after doing this I've never had an issue with my winch knocking my clutch out. and I've had some good long pulls out of some mud holes. and all it cost me was a second battery and some cables to reach the original battery.


now if you want off key power.. where you can listen to music while the unit isn't running and not have to worry about the start battery being dead you will need the battery isolation set up.
 
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HondaRed16

HondaRed16

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Interesting; the what do you mean exactly, always shift in manual mode?
No. has nothing to do with shifting and more with how you work the clutches.

Remember your old manual truck/car?
You wouldn't hold the gas if it wasn't going anywhere, would you?
So why would you do this same thing to your Pioneer 1000/Talon?

If you are stuck in a situation/mud and you are pressing the gas...
If the wheels are not turning the clutches are slipping.
Do this over and over and you will burn them up.
Thank you, great explanation.
Now this simple mind understands 😊
 
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c_carrierlj

c_carrierlj

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Feb 21, 2021
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i have had the clutch dis Engauge on me many times...

example one: so when pulling yourself out of a mud hole you want your tires spinning to help move the unit.. not spinning super fast but spinning still.. also rpm over idle will help keep the voltage up. so you need to be ability to winch and run the power to the tranny at the same time.

example two: when plowing snow, when I'm lifting my plow up and I'm moving back words at the same time. when the plow hits the stop point it puts the winch under max load for a split second while I'm still moving so it knock the clutch out for a split second.

to avoid all this you can do the true dual battery system like everyone talks about. or you can simply get another battery and wire them together.. after doing this I've never had an issue with my winch knocking my clutch out. and I've had some good long pulls out of some mud holes. and all it cost me was a second battery and some cables to reach the original battery.


now if you want off key power.. where you can listen to music while the unit isn't running and not have to worry about the start battery being dead you will need the battery isolation set up.
 
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red1329

red1329

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Ok. Would you recommend a dual battery for plowing snow? I will never use a winch for pulling myself or anyone out of a mud hole or anything. Only for plowing. Is a dual battery necessary?
i did my dual batter no isolation for plowing snow. it works fine. the biggest thing with the isolation is you can run one battery dead while the other still starts and supply's your engine with 12v. this is for guys that are turning the key off amd running lights or sound system. for just running your winch two batteries non isolated will keep up with your plow easy. you may consider getting two new batteries. one thing people will argue about is if you have a weaker battery it will pull down the other.. people tend to over think this alot. look at evey diesel truck on the road.. two batteries wired together.. no issues. just remebwr positive to positive is called parallel and will give you 12v with more amps. running it in series is when you take the positve of one battery to the negitive of the other. this will give you 24v.. you do not want 24v
 
MC_Crowbar

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If you don't plan to use the winch for recovery, then you'll probably be fine with just the factory battery. I have dual batteries and an isolator, but I knew I'd be running a stereo with the key off a lot while working around my place out of the machine.
I've used my winch 3 times for recovery, twice recovering myself, and both times the pull was long enough to drain my second battery. Granted, maybe the isolator disconnected and kept the aux/winch battery from charging (I never had the opportunity to check it), but during the recoveries, I was pretty happy I had 2 batteries instead of potentially killing my factory battery.
If you don't have any key-off power plans, 2 batteries in parallel will likely be fine, too, like red1329 said, just keep an eye out for phantom power drain anytime you add a new load.

Also, good news regarding the voltage/clutch issue I've read about on here, thanks for the info Hondasxs!
 
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c_carrierlj

c_carrierlj

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i did my dual batter no isolation for plowing snow. it works fine. the biggest thing with the isolation is you can run one battery dead while the other still starts and supply's your engine with 12v. this is for guys that are turning the key off amd running lights or sound system. for just running your winch two batteries non isolated will keep up with your plow easy. you may consider getting two new batteries. one thing people will argue about is if you have a weaker battery it will pull down the other.. people tend to over think this alot. look at evey diesel truck on the road.. two batteries wired together.. no issues. just remebwr positive to positive is called parallel and will give you 12v with more amps. running it in series is when you take the positve of one battery to the negitive of the other. this will give you 24v.. you do not want 24v
Awesome. Thanks for the info man! One more question for ya. Do you hook your accessories up to the primary battery or the secondary battery???
 
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red1329

red1329

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Awesome. Thanks for the info man! One more question for ya. Do you hook your accessories up to the primary battery or the secondary battery???
really doesnt matter. once wire together they are all the same circut. i personally already had all my stuff running to the main battery so i just left it that way when i added my second battery.
if you have an isolation system idealy all you accessorys go to second battery and your primary feeds only the starter and computer system. if you might do a iso system in the future you might wanna wire it all to the second battery as well so you don't have to redu it later. ultimately its all what you want.
 
c_carrierlj

c_carrierlj

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really doesnt matter. once wire together they are all the same circut. i personally already had all my stuff running to the main battery so i just left it that way when i added my second battery.
if you have an isolation system idealy all you accessorys go to second battery and your primary feeds only the starter and computer system. if you might do a iso system in the future you might wanna wire it all to the second battery as well so you don't have to redu it later. ultimately its all what you want.
Awesome! Thanks for all your help man! Im just gonna go with what you did. Connect another battery without an isolation system. No need for it. Appreciate ya!
 
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red1329

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StewB

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I had the same question a few months ago and after sifting through a lot of info. decided to add a second battery with an isolator for my 2021 P1K5 LE.

I have a winch and light bar and use both for plowing quite a bit, which means lights, shifting and lifting. I also ride way, way out there alone and like the peace of mind of a second battery.

There is a key difference in set ups that others noted above. You can parallel two batteries, hook new accessories to the main battery, and that will work just fine. The batteries will, however, live together and die together because the lower-charge/failing battery will suck down the stronger battery.

If you use an isolator, put all of the new accessories (esp. high draw items like a winch and light bar) on the second battery. That will save the main battery for starting and shifting, while putting the add-on load entirely on the second battery. If the second battery is low, you can still start and drive the machine and it will re-charge the second battery or at least get you home. And if your main battery dies, you can use the second battery to jumpstart.

Gratuitous thoughts: the winch should be tied straight to the battery because of the high load, but I really suggest using an automotive relay and car/marine fuse power block for the other accessories - about $20 for a relay and six tap fuse block. Using a fuse block makes adding new accessories super easy and you can get rid of the in-line fuses. Rather than hunting down scattered in-line fuses, they will all be in one place - just make sure to use the right amp fuse for the specific accessory.

Fuse box

This is my dual battery set up. The isolator is just out of the picture (mounted in the flat oval near the anti-freeze fill cap) and the winch relay and breaker are mounted out of view on the right. This shows off my super-engineered Gorilla tape battery lifter (we've come a long way from duct tape, baby!) and I also added a 30A circuit breaker (far left) primarily so I can cut the power to the system (about $20 for the circuit breaker). Don't tell my wife, but I didn't really need the circuit breaker, I just thought it'd be cool.

Negative is hard-wired from the battery to the negative bus on the new fuse box (out of view on bottom of the fuse box).
Positive runs from battery to top of the 30A circuit breaker to the relay to the new fuse box. The relay (next to the fuse box) is a standard 30A automotive relay that is key on power (KOP) switched from a PosiTap on the factory acc. fuse. You need to pick the right side of the acc. fuse to tap, so read about it; I forgot which one it is and don't know if it's different in other model years.

All of my accessories and their relay switches run through the new fuse box (winch relay, light relay, dual battery voltage meter, wireless winch remote).

Good luck!
 

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