P1000 2021 pioneer 1000-5 not firing on front cylinder

[bumperm]

As @Jerryg says, replace the plugs. Then I'd replace the fuel injector wiring, from the club store.

There's a troubleshooting rule they taught in Navy ET School, "Check the easy stuff first!". When you're working on a big radar or transmitter with a gazillion parts, you quickly learn how useful and appropriate this is.

 

[Jerryg]

There's a troubleshooting rule they taught in Navy ET School, "Check the easy stuff first!". When you're working on a big radar or transmitter with a gazillion parts, you quickly learn how useful and appropriate this is.

Ed Zachery

 

[TxDoc]

As @Jerryg says, replace the plugs. Then I'd replace the fuel injector wiring, from the club store.

There's a troubleshooting rule they taught in Navy ET School, "Check the easy stuff first!". When you're working on a big radar or transmitter with a gazillion parts, you quickly learn how useful and appropriate this is.

My father was a master electrician and electrical contractor for over sixty years.

That's what he said. Start with the simple things first. And, with 12 and 24 volt systems, start with the grounds.

And, he called it an ohm meter, nowadays people might say a multimeter.

He preferred a and a Simpson analog ohm meter and a Wiggins for quick checking of AC circuits. I have at least a dozen Simpsons with leather cases

He did like Fluke brand products.

I hope Giddy169 gets this fixed soon.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

[Jerryg]

My father was a master electrician and electrical contractor for over sixty years.

That's every he said. Start with the simple things first. And, with 12 and 24 volt systems, start with the grounds.

And, he called it an ohm meter, nowadays people might say a multimeter.

He preferred a and a Simpson analog ohm meter and a Wiggins for quick checking of AC circuits. I have at least a dozen Simpsons with leather cases

He did like Fluke brand products.

I hope Giddy169 gets this fixed soon.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

I prefer analog ohm meters as well, always more accurate.

 

[DRZRon1]

Well here’s my story so far. 2021 Honda 1000-5 deluxe. I put a snorkel on it, dual battery with fuse box and true isolator with winch and a couple other miscellaneous lights for the interior and sound bar. Was driving it and all of a sudden it started running rough and would die. It has about 66 hours on it. Hauled it home put new plugs in it and disconnected the second battery and no change, no spark in the front cylinder. If I applied the brake while I tried to start it. It would blow the ignition fuse if I didn’t apply the brake it would start but only on the back cylinder.
So I brought it into the dealer, it’s 6 months out of warranty. They said they pulled the pgm(ECU) and put it in another unit so they said it was the pgm(ECU). They installed the new pgm and it fried and only ran on one cylinder. Now they say it needs a wiring harness. I guess we will see if this fixes it. So far not very impressed with this machine with only 66 hours. Anyone else with a similar issue? Of course the deal throws back my added battery could be causing this.

U have chewed / pinched or grounded/shorted wiring, blowing fuses with pedal down and dropping a cylinder while riding through the rocks tells the story - firing on one cylinder is just a symptom

doesn’t matter what freaking type of meter is used, just looking for open, grounded, shorted wiring point to point - painful journey

 

[Remington]

My father was a master electrician and electrical contractor for over sixty years.

That's every he said. Start with the simple things first. And, with 12 and 24 volt systems, start with the grounds.

And, he called it an ohm meter, nowadays people might say a multimeter.

He preferred a and a Simpson analog ohm meter and a Wiggins for quick checking of AC circuits. I have at least a dozen Simpsons with leather cases

He did like Fluke brand products.

I hope Giddy169 gets this fixed soon.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

I use to use them when i first started in the trades . That was all my journeyman used

 

[Remington]

"Check the easy stuff first!"

As in work smarter not harder!
9 out of 10 times, youll find it there

 

[bumperm]

I use to use them when i first started in the trades . That was all my journeyman used

I recommend a digital volt-ohm meter. Even the cheapo ones at Harbor Freight are good for the non-pro.

In the early 60's Navy, it was Simpson 260 volt-ohm meters. Nothing wrong with the older analog tech, and some still prefer them. I would reach for a digital meter most every time. I have 4 digital Fluke meters scattered about, and as many cheaper digital meters as well. The only meter I have with a needle (analog) is a hand crank megger. (A megger is used to test high resistance stuff, like the insulation in wiring, It puts out very high voltage, so you can do damage with it if you don't know what for.)

 

[DRZRon1]

Well here’s my story so far. 2021 Honda 1000-5 deluxe. I put a snorkel on it, dual battery with fuse box and true isolator with winch and a couple other miscellaneous lights for the interior and sound bar. Was driving it and all of a sudden it started running rough and would die. It has about 66 hours on it. Hauled it home put new plugs in it and disconnected the second battery and no change, no spark in the front cylinder. If I applied the brake while I tried to start it. It would blow the ignition fuse if I didn’t apply the brake it would start but only on the back cylinder.
So I brought it into the dealer, it’s 6 months out of warranty. They said they pulled the pgm(ECU) and put it in another unit so they said it was the pgm(ECU). They installed the new pgm and it fried and only ran on one cylinder. Now they say it needs a wiring harness. I guess we will see if this fixes it. So far not very impressed with this machine with only 66 hours. Anyone else with a similar issue? Of course the deal throws back my added battery could be causing this.

is this fixed yet - update please

 

[Giddy169]

is this fixed yet - update please

Nope still in the shop, waiting on them to receive and install the wiring harness. I will let you know when I hear from them.

 

[Giddy169]

Talked to the shop today the replacement ECU came in today. They had the new wiring harness installed put the ECU in and it ran on both cylinders like it’s supposed to. They were working on putting it back together and expect it to be done tomorrow.

 

[Giddy169]

Well I went to the shop yesterday afternoon and picked it up $2200+ later. They told me they’d pull my accessories off and not reinstall them but didn’t say they’d be cutting the wires and zip tie them to the roll cage. That’s a bit frustrating now I have to buy all new connectors and rewire everything.

Next they told me my second battery Mighty Max was shot. I asked how so and where is it. They said recycle pile, and it would spike to 30 volts. I said that doesn’t sound right I had a dual volt meter in the machine and it has never gone above 13.5ish or so. I said show me and I don’t know what he had his multimeter set to but he couldn’t even get it to give a reading. So I brought the battery and checked it on my my multimeter and it reads 12.56volts. I can’t see any way it could give off 30 volts any opinions? He said he’d have no reservations put the aftermarket accessories on if he was me but not use that battery.

Then they told me after they put the new wiring harness on and another ECU (pgm) it fried the new ECU (pgm). So they fried two ECU(pgm)s and then they replaced the ignition coil, it had a short. What I can’t understand is how the ignition coil could have a short. Shouldn’t this have been one of the first things to check? I told them I checked for spark and there was no spark on the front cylinder and I put in new spark plugs. I even said if you try to start the machine with the brake on it blows the ignition fuse. Even if the ECU (pgm) was bad they should have been able to check the coils with the multimeter for the correct readings right?

Bottom line it is running who knows if I needed a new wiring harness and the 8.5hours of labor. But I definitely needed a ECU (pgm) and an ignition coil.

 

[Scoop]

Despite the trials and tribulations, I'm glad it's all sorted. Now you can move forward.

 

[Giddy169]

Despite the trials and tribulations, I'm glad it's all sorted. Now you can move forward.

Yup glad it’s fixed! If anyone else has this problem check the ignition coil and it may blow the pgm. I am not sure how you’d check the pgm as a DIY.

 

[Jerryg]

Well I went to the shop yesterday afternoon and picked it up $2200+ later. They told me they’d pull my accessories off and not reinstall them but didn’t say they’d be cutting the wires and zip tie them to the roll cage. That’s a bit frustrating now I have to buy all new connectors and rewire everything.

Next they told me my second battery Mighty Max was shot. I asked how so and where is it. They said recycle pile, and it would spike to 30 volts. I said that doesn’t sound right I had a dual volt meter in the machine and it has never gone above 13.5ish or so. I said show me and I don’t know what he had his multimeter set to but he couldn’t even get it to give a reading. So I brought the battery and checked it on my my multimeter and it reads 12.56volts. I can’t see any way it could give off 30 volts any opinions? He said he’d have no reservations put the aftermarket accessories on if he was me but not use that battery.

Then they told me after they put the new wiring harness on and another ECU (pgm) it fried the new ECU (pgm). So they fried two ECU(pgm)s and then they replaced the ignition coil, it had a short. What I can’t understand is how the ignition coil could have a short. Shouldn’t this have been one of the first things to check? I told them I checked for spark and there was no spark on the front cylinder and I put in new spark plugs. I even said if you try to start the machine with the brake on it blows the ignition fuse. Even if the ECU (pgm) was bad they should have been able to check the coils with the multimeter for the correct readings right?

Bottom line it is running who knows if I needed a new wiring harness and the 8.5hours of labor. But I definitely needed a ECU (pgm) and an ignition coil.

Sorry bro, sounds like you got screwed over. I wouldn't go back there for anything.

 

[Bighat]

Hard to find a real mechanic these days, just part replacers is all that's left. I think most of the younger gen will soon not be able to wipe without getting crap on their finger.

 

[bumperm]

The employee (I hesitate to call him a tech), doesn't have a clue. There is absolutely positively no way a 12 volt lead acid battery can put out 30 volts!! That's physically impossible.

Glad you got it fixed, but I'd say you paid for a lot of incompetence at that shop.