P1000 2nd battery and accessory install ='s hair loss

[Jgroesbeck]

Howdy. New member here. I’ve been pouring through 2nd battery install and wiring threads and still have a few questions I haven't been able to figure out. I’ll admit they are basic as I’m still in learning mode. In the spirit of full disclosure, I’ve reached a point where I’m suffering from paralysis from analysis. This has led to an increased rate of hair loss, not that I had much to begin with. Thank you in advance for your help and shared knowledge.

My planned setup:
Odyssey 2nd battery w/ a terra 45s winch. I will be installing an accessory panel with OTRATTW V-series switches and a yet to be determined number of accessories. For now, I am planning for a rear and front light bar, dome light and bilge fan, each to their own switch. Similar to other install projects, I will run an accessory switch that will allow me to pass or stop power to my accessories from the accessory panel. Additionally, I’d like to place a disconnect amp switch between the solenoid and fuse panel. Again, this is like a number of builds I’ve watched.

Current equipment:
-TrueAm UTV-SBI-18CM UTV Dual Battery Isolator Kit
-Odyssey PC925 battery
-Cole Hersee Solenoid (stinger replacement) as I live in a cold climate
-Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block
-Misc. wires (4G to 16G), connectors, shrink wrap, etc..)

TBD equipment: (TBD based on when I get edumecated)
-Bussmann 100 AMP circuit breaker
-Buss bar
-Secondary Harness?
-What else?

Questions (for now)
-Buss Bar: I notice some builds use a buss bar and others don’t. For the builds that do not, are the accessories grounded directly to the frame? I don’t understand why or what the advantages are to using a bus bar other than convenience?

-Winch wiring: I’ve seen this done a few ways. Some run directly to the 2nd battery others through what I believe is circuit breaker? For those through a circuit breaker, I noticed most use a smaller (100-150amp) breaker. I would think the breaker circuit needs to larger, like a 300+ amp breaker? Do most folks chuck the supplied solenoid that is supplied with the winch for a larger one?

-Wiring harness: Many builds mention using a secondary wiring harness from the SXS store in conjunction with the second battery and accessories, and some builds do not. This is a basic concept that I’m missing here. Why use a secondary harness? With a fuse box, positive power goes directly from the fuse block to the accessories so is a harness even needed? Like the buss bar, is this a convenience piece of equipment? I strongly suspect I’m missing fundamental knowledge here.

Many thanks in advance for helping me understand 12v 101 wiring.

Should have added a pic to begin with (pics or it didn't happen). This was from our first ride this last weekend. And yes, the vent lines had been extended based off of recommendations from this forum

 

[Admin]

 

[helimech]

You can run your lights to any frame ground or bring them back to the blue sea fuse panel, that has a main Ground that i run to my second battery. For the winch i use a 250a breaker as the Terra45 pulls 230 at full load. From second battery through supplied winch control relay to winch
You dont really need a busbar as the blue sea serves that purpous
Hope that helps

 

[BigOL3]

Run the winch STRAIGHT to the battery.

 

[TripleB]

Howdy. New member here. I’ve been pouring through 2nd battery install and wiring threads and still have a few questions I haven't been able to figure out. I’ll admit they are basic as I’m still in learning mode. In the spirit of full disclosure, I’ve reached a point where I’m suffering from paralysis from analysis. This has led to an increased rate of hair loss, not that I had much to begin with. Thank you in advance for your help and shared knowledge.

My planned setup:
Odyssey 2nd battery w/ a terra 45s winch. I will be installing an accessory panel with OTRATTW V-series switches and a yet to be determined number of accessories. For now, I am planning for a rear and front light bar, dome light and bilge fan, each to their own switch. Similar to other install projects, I will run an accessory switch that will allow me to pass or stop power to my accessories from the accessory panel. Additionally, I’d like to place a disconnect amp switch between the solenoid and fuse panel. Again, this is like a number of builds I’ve watched.

Current equipment:
-TrueAm UTV-SBI-18CM UTV Dual Battery Isolator Kit
-Odyssey PC925 battery
-Cole Hersee Solenoid (stinger replacement) as I live in a cold climate
-Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block
-Misc. wires (4G to 16G), connectors, shrink wrap, etc..)

TBD equipment: (TBD based on when I get edumecated)
-Bussmann 100 AMP circuit breaker
-Buss bar
-Secondary Harness?
-What else?

Questions (for now)
-Buss Bar: I notice some builds use a buss bar and others don’t. For the builds that do not, are the accessories grounded directly to the frame? I don’t understand why or what the advantages are to using a bus bar other than convenience?

-Winch wiring: I’ve seen this done a few ways. Some run directly to the 2nd battery others through what I believe is circuit breaker? For those through a circuit breaker, I noticed most use a smaller (100-150amp) breaker. I would think the breaker circuit needs to larger, like a 300+ amp breaker? Do most folks chuck the supplied solenoid that is supplied with the winch for a larger one?

-Wiring harness: Many builds mention using a secondary wiring harness from the SXS store in conjunction with the second battery and accessories, and some builds do not. This is a basic concept that I’m missing here. Why use a secondary harness? With a fuse box, positive power goes directly from the fuse block to the accessories so is a harness even needed? Like the buss bar, is this a convenience piece of equipment? I strongly suspect I’m missing fundamental knowledge here.

Many thanks in advance for helping me understand 12v 101 wiring.

Should have added a pic to begin with (pics or it didn't happen). This was from our first ride this last weekend. And yes, the vent lines had been extended based off of recommendations from this forum


View attachment 202353

If u don't use the harness or tap a key a on power source, and use a relay/stinger your fuse block/accessories will be hot all the time. U can do it that way but if u leave a switch on, your 2nd battery will be dead in the morning. Also with no key on power, u won't be able to use the backlighting on the switches. The switch lights will drain your battery over a few days because they will be on all the time.

 

[TripleB]

Howdy. New member here. I’ve been pouring through 2nd battery install and wiring threads and still have a few questions I haven't been able to figure out. I’ll admit they are basic as I’m still in learning mode. In the spirit of full disclosure, I’ve reached a point where I’m suffering from paralysis from analysis. This has led to an increased rate of hair loss, not that I had much to begin with. Thank you in advance for your help and shared knowledge.

My planned setup:
Odyssey 2nd battery w/ a terra 45s winch. I will be installing an accessory panel with OTRATTW V-series switches and a yet to be determined number of accessories. For now, I am planning for a rear and front light bar, dome light and bilge fan, each to their own switch. Similar to other install projects, I will run an accessory switch that will allow me to pass or stop power to my accessories from the accessory panel. Additionally, I’d like to place a disconnect amp switch between the solenoid and fuse panel. Again, this is like a number of builds I’ve watched.

Current equipment:
-TrueAm UTV-SBI-18CM UTV Dual Battery Isolator Kit
-Odyssey PC925 battery
-Cole Hersee Solenoid (stinger replacement) as I live in a cold climate
-Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block
-Misc. wires (4G to 16G), connectors, shrink wrap, etc..)

TBD equipment: (TBD based on when I get edumecated)
-Bussmann 100 AMP circuit breaker
-Buss bar
-Secondary Harness?
-What else?

Questions (for now)
-Buss Bar: I notice some builds use a buss bar and others don’t. For the builds that do not, are the accessories grounded directly to the frame? I don’t understand why or what the advantages are to using a bus bar other than convenience?

-Winch wiring: I’ve seen this done a few ways. Some run directly to the 2nd battery others through what I believe is circuit breaker? For those through a circuit breaker, I noticed most use a smaller (100-150amp) breaker. I would think the breaker circuit needs to larger, like a 300+ amp breaker? Do most folks chuck the supplied solenoid that is supplied with the winch for a larger one?

-Wiring harness: Many builds mention using a secondary wiring harness from the SXS store in conjunction with the second battery and accessories, and some builds do not. This is a basic concept that I’m missing here. Why use a secondary harness? With a fuse box, positive power goes directly from the fuse block to the accessories so is a harness even needed? Like the buss bar, is this a convenience piece of equipment? I strongly suspect I’m missing fundamental knowledge here.

Many thanks in advance for helping me understand 12v 101 wiring.

Should have added a pic to begin with (pics or it didn't happen). This was from our first ride this last weekend. And yes, the vent lines had been extended based off of recommendations from this forum


View attachment 202353

I reread your post and maybe I dont know what I'm talking about lol. I don't know if u can just run a wire from 2nd battery to a switch that would trigger your fuse block and switch lights or not. Maybe u can. Mine is not set up like that. My buddy just wired his 2nd battery and fuse block up to be hot all the time. Maybe someone else can help u.

 

[BBLASER]

I went with the 6 position blue sea sub fuse box with an integrated ground bar in it. I think it looks cleaner to have all your grounds going to one common point of attachment and will also help in troubleshooting a problem.

I used the supplied breaker with my Terra 45 winch. So far I have not had any issues with it tripping while using the winch.

Not sure on your wiring harness question. My setup is almost exactly as you describe yours wanting to be. I did not use a wiring harness tho. I have a 3 position switch that either makes my secondary batteried fuse box: Key on, switched on or switched off. If it helps you, look at member: Onthejob's build. I basically copied his wiring and it has been flawless and super simple imo. Takes a little bit of time up front, but I feel it is worth it for the nice easy layout.

 

[Jgroesbeck]

You can run your lights to any frame ground or bring them back to the blue sea fuse panel, that has a main Ground that i run to my second battery. For the winch i use a 250a breaker as the Terra45 pulls 230 at full load. From second battery through supplied winch control relay to winch
You dont really need a busbar as the blue sea serves that purpous
Hope that helps

Got it, I appreciate the reply. I figured the fuse panel was in place of the buss bar.

 

[Jgroesbeck]

If u don't use the harness or tap a key a on power source, and use a relay/stinger your fuse block/accessories will be hot all the time. U can do it that way but if u leave a switch on, your 2nd battery will be dead in the morning. Also with no key on power, u won't be able to use the backlighting on the switches. The switch lights will drain your battery over a few days because they will be on all the time.

I am planning on using a relay and stinger to do just that. What I don't understand or can't visualize is how the harness integrates into the install. Is this the Key on harness you are talking about?: KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer 1000, 700, 500, and Talon 1000.

 

[Jgroesbeck]

I went with the 6 position blue sea sub fuse box with an integrated ground bar in it. I think it looks cleaner to have all your grounds going to one common point of attachment and will also help in troubleshooting a problem.

I used the supplied breaker with my Terra 45 winch. So far I have not had any issues with it tripping while using the winch.

Not sure on your wiring harness question. My setup is almost exactly as you describe yours wanting to be. I did not use a wiring harness tho. I have a 3 position switch that either makes my secondary batteried fuse box: Key on, switched on or switched off. If it helps you, look at member: Onthejob's build. I basically copied his wiring and it has been flawless and super simple imo. Takes a little bit of time up front, but I feel it is worth it for the nice easy layout.

Ok, I can put the buss question behind me, thanks for that. Okay, I've seen what I believe are the 3 position switches you mentioned in a few build videos on the forum. I'll check out Onthejobs build and go from there. Many thanks for the help.

 

[JenElio]

I am planning on using a relay and stinger to do just that. What I don't understand or can't visualize is how the harness integrates into the install. Is this the Key on harness you are talking about?: KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer 1000, 700, 500, and Talon 1000.

Welcome to the club from South FL!

Yes that is the key on harness 👍 I would run that to a bussbar that way you can tap in to anything else you need key on.

 

[Jgroesbeck]

I went with the 6 position blue sea sub fuse box with an integrated ground bar in it. I think it looks cleaner to have all your grounds going to one common point of attachment and will also help in troubleshooting a problem.

I used the supplied breaker with my Terra 45 winch. So far I have not had any issues with it tripping while using the winch.

Not sure on your wiring harness question. My setup is almost exactly as you describe yours wanting to be. I did not use a wiring harness tho. I have a 3 position switch that either makes my secondary batteried fuse box: Key on, switched on or switched off. If it helps you, look at member: Onthejob's build. I basically copied his wiring and it has been flawless and super simple imo. Takes a little bit of time up front, but I feel it is worth it for the nice easy layout.

I noticed on Onthejob's build he used a bussbar and fuse box. Why would a bussbar be used with a fuse box? What does the bussbar do that the fuse box does not?

 

[TripleB]

I am planning on using a relay and stinger to do just that. What I don't understand or can't visualize is how the harness integrates into the install. Is this the Key on harness you are talking about?: KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer 1000, 700, 500, and Talon 1000.

Yes. That harness just gives u a key on power source without tapping or splicing any factory wires.

 

[TripleB]

I noticed on Onthejob's build he used a bussbar and fuse box. Why would a bussbar be used with a fuse box? What does the bussbar do that the fuse box does not?

I ran all my neg wires back to my fuse block also. I dont know all the benefits of the bussbar but I don't use it.

 

[helimech]

I noticed on Onthejob's build he used a bussbar and fuse box. Why would a bussbar be used with a fuse box? What does the bussbar do that the fuse box does not?

nothing, the blue sea has one built in

 

[Formula1]

I used my key on power wire to turn on my stinger which in turns powers my fuse box.

 

[Haldog77]

" I’ve reached a point where I’m suffering from paralysis from analysis." That is what I faced when my wiring project was unfolding as well. I had so much stuff I was trying to do all at once that I was getting nothing done. Where do I mount this? What size wire do I run for that? Which wires are these? Why did I put that there? (loud scream)

 

[Jgroesbeck]

Yes. That harness just gives u a key on power source without tapping or splicing any factory wires.

Ok, the picture is clearing a bit. If I'm understanding correctly, you can use a harness OR tap into the power source (as seen on build videos) from the factory wires. That is easy enough to understand. Seeing how I've already ordered the posi-taps, I'll splice into the factory wires. Thank you!

 

[Jgroesbeck]

" I’ve reached a point where I’m suffering from paralysis from analysis." That is what I faced when my wiring project was unfolding as well. I had so much stuff I was trying to do all at once that I was getting nothing done. Where do I mount this? What size wire do I run for that? Which wires are these? Why did I put that there? (loud scream)

The struggle is real. There was a point two nights ago when I just stopped hopping from one "wiring" thread to the next. I had a chuckle when I counted how many threads I had open. I had 15 threads open all talking about the same goal but going about it about 10 different ways. The bottle of Colonel Taylor Small Batch was well used that night. Hell, maybe that was the problem. Cheers.

 

[JoeyL]

Questions (for now)
-Buss Bar: I notice some builds use a buss bar and others don’t. For the builds that do not, are the accessories grounded directly to the frame? I don’t understand why or what the advantages are to using a bus bar other than convenience?

you got it right. a bus bar is used to make multiple connections to the same source cleanly, without having to stack a bunch of wires on the same terminal. they can be used on the positive or negative side. i used several on mine.

-Winch wiring: I’ve seen this done a few ways. Some run directly to the 2nd battery others through what I believe is circuit breaker? For those through a circuit breaker, I noticed most use a smaller (100-150amp) breaker. I would think the breaker circuit needs to larger, like a 300+ amp breaker? Do most folks chuck the supplied solenoid that is supplied with the winch for a larger one?

a circuit breaker or fuse is not a bad idea but not required. it protects your wiring from catching on fire if it shorts out. you may end up with nuisance trips if you dont use one thats big enough. check your winch documentation for the max amp draw.

I attached a diagram i made of my setup which is pretty similar to what youre doing. I have posted it before, so maybe you saw it in another thread you were looking at, not sure.

I have a second battery w a True Isolator (complete kit w dual volt meter) and I am also using a stinger 200A relay to switch my power feed to the fuse block. I added a DPDT 3 position (ON/OFF/ON) switch (OTRATTW) to switch between accessory power always on and accessory power on with the key and no accessory power. This switch feeds an "Accessory Bus" that feeds all the small stuff on the dash and also turns on the stinger to provide power to the fuse block.

So far I really like the ability to switch the accessory power. If I am in and out of the buggy a lot i can switch to always on and not interrupt the stereo every time i stop and start. Most other times i just leave it in keyed power mode.

If you dont want the switch the diagram is still basically valid, just eliminate the always on power wire and feed everything with the key on power.


A couple of extra notes:
The Axon winch has an internal relay, so your winch wiring will be a little different.
I should put a fuse in the main that feeds the fuse block, I just haven't done it yet.
I used 6AWG wire for all of the main wiring, it is shown thicker in the diagram.

i attached a pdf of the wiring diagram that is better quality than the attached image if you want to print it out.

 

[BrotherNov]

I'm reluctant to keep asking questions because it exposes my stupidness, but I've got to get this done somehow. Is my interpretation (attached pdf) of the awesome wiring diagram JoeyL provided correct? Will this work?