P700 700 Starting issue

Mopower58

Mopower58

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Also,I'm not familiar with the 700 but can you switch the ignition "on" and start it with a screwdriver at the starter solenoid? If you have it switched on and it cranks ok it will be the module that controls injector pulse width.
 
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mk36345

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Tried crossing the solenoid as well, thought maybe something in the keyswitch might be causing it, same result.
It's crazy.... looking at options for software now to read the realtime data from the DTC port.....may go back to the timing as well one more time
Also,I'm not familiar with the 700 but can you switch the ignition "on" and start it with a screwdriver at the starter solenoid? If you have it switched on and it cranks ok it will be the module that controls injector pulse width.
 
Glock21user

Glock21user

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I know it is a stretch and probably a useless idea but have you tried cranking it with a jump pack or cable to a vehicle?
I only ask because I had a Rancher 350 that would crank but not start until I hit it with a jump pack.
I put in a new battery and cleaned all connections never to have the issue again.
 
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mk36345

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Yep.... that's what we thought as well, replaced it, no change
That's if there only one module, I can't find another one in the service manual or maybe I don't know what I'm looking for
I know it is a stretch and probably a useless idea but have you tried cranking it with a jump pack or cable to a vehicle?
I only ask because I had a Rancher 350 that would crank but not start until I hit it with a jump pack.
I put in a new battery and cleaned all connections never to have the issue again.
Yep, tried that to jumper cables to a running vehicle to make sure plenty of amps available if the starter was loading the system. No luck
 
Glock21user

Glock21user

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That's if there only one module, I can't find another one in the service manual or maybe I don't know what I'm looking for

Yep, tried that to jumper cables to a running vehicle to make sure plenty of amps available if the starter was loading the system. No luck
Sorry hoss my only input.
Good luck and I will swing by a buddies house tomorrow after work that is a Honda mechanic at a local dealership and get any input he may have as well.
 
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mk36345

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Just wanted to give an update and bring this one to a close......

Finally found the problem....the Alternator Coil was fried.......literally......I guess the challenge finding the issue was it partially worked, at least enough to sustain fire to the plug, keep the engine running (once it had a snort of ether), and minimally charge the battery.

Note to self....always check the charging system....Honda usually will maintain around 14.3V while idling, thats how I finally found this one. It was only maintaining around 12.6V at idle. Replaced the coil (also known as a stator) and voltage regulator/rectifier as a pair and now it's back on the trail.
IMG 20221211 153850403
 
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DanielGroulx1320

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Compression was 135 psi
Compression is too high should be 80psi, took me 4 starters learning it, Ther a decompression on the exhaust lobe so as the exhaust lobe spins it opens the exhaust valve to release compression on start up then once it starts the force moves this thing on the cam so it’s doesn’t loose decompression once started
 
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