P1000 A "HOW TO Question Seat Back Removal

HBarlow

HBarlow

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How is the vertical seat back in a Honda Pioneer 1000-3 removed?

I've procrastinated too long. I'm tired of wearing hearing protection muffs to save what little remaining hearing I have and to provide some peace and quiet when driving the buggy. I've ordered a roll of porous rubber sheet. I plan to cut and glue the rubber sheet to the rear cabin wall behind the seat back and the underside of the Honda accessory roof.
 
Rayger143

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Screen Shot 2021 11 17 at 121807 PM
 
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How is the vertical seat back in a Honda Pioneer 1000-3 removed?

I've procrastinated too long. I'm tired of wearing hearing protection muffs to save what little remaining hearing I have and to provide some peace and quiet when driving the buggy. I've ordered a roll of porous rubber sheet. I plan to cut and glue the rubber sheet to the rear cabin wall behind the seat back and the underside of the Honda accessory roof.

Too bad you've ordered it already. I'll be selling a shield for that machine in the next couple of months. Fits perfect and you don't have to glue anything.
 
HBarlow

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I already ordered the 3/8" by 48" wide rubber sheet from Lowe's Home Improvement. It's scheduled to be delivered to my door next Wednesday.
 
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Been making them for the 500 for yrs and have sold hundreds of them. There are members running them in their P1's, P7's and Talon's now. They were cool enough to let me use their machine to get a pattern and got one for free in return. Wouldn't discourage anyone from making their own but the price of this material is about what you'd pay for one of these. I've made patterns for over a dozen different machines and my advice would be to buy enough for at least two. The first one will suck no matter how precise you try to be.
Price will be around $100 shipped. Material has gone up and shipping has gone up 3 times since I started.

 
HBarlow

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I would be happy to buy and install your rubber shield but I want thicker rubber to absorb the noise and vibration. This is what I've ordered:


I plan to cut and fit the material to fit the various raised and not raised panels and attach each with automotive spray adhesive. Perfect cuts and fit will not be a priority.

I haven't seen the material or previously used it so this is going to be an experiment - which I may regret.
 
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Lady01

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I would be happy to buy and install your rubber shield but I want thicker rubber to absorb the noise and vibration. This is what I've ordered:


I plan to cut and fit the material to fit the various raised and not raised panels and attach each with automotive spray adhesive. Perfect cuts and fit will not be a priority.

I haven't seen the material or previously used it so this is going to be an experiment - which I may regret.
those spray adhesives are not very likely to last, even the Gorilla glue versions... its a bit more expensive but I have been using something else and have had no adhesive failures. Tractor Interior Upholstery Tractor Interior Upholstery LLC | Cab Kits | Tractor Headliners | Post Covers | Acoustical Foam PermaGrip PG107 is the very best adhesive spray I have found.
1637322942499
 
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HBarlow

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those spray adhesives are not very likely to last, even the Gorilla glue versions... its a bit more expensive but I have been using something else and have had no adhesive failures. Tractor Interior Upholstery Tractor Interior Upholstery LLC | Cab Kits | Tractor Headliners | Post Covers | Acoustical Foam PermaGrip PG107 is the very best adhesive spray I have found.


I appreciate your advice. I'll order the product you've recommended.

The one and only small upholstery shop nearby in Beckley (WV) discouraged me from hiring him to add some type of sound insulation to the underside of my roof. He said he would do it IF I provided the adhesive. He warned me that he had tried doing that and found the adhesive would fail on a warm summer days and the insulating pad would separate from the roof.

I was planning to go to NAPA and try to buy a high quality spray adhesive and hope it would work.

Your recommendation is perfectly timed. I'll buy the PG 107.

My guess is the problem is, as usual, excess government. The influence of tree huggers has taken an old product that worked off the market.
 
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Lady01

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I appreciate your advice. I'll order the product you've recommended.

The one and only small upholstery shop nearby in Beckley (WV) discouraged me from hiring him to add some type of sound insulation to the underside of my roof. He said he would do it IF I provided the adhesive. He warned me that he had tried doing that and found the adhesive would fail on a warm summer days and the insulating pad would separate from the roof.

I was planning to go to NAPA and try to buy a high quality spray adhesive and hope it would work.

Your recommendation is perfectly timed. I'll buy the PG 107.

My guess is the problem is, as usual, excess government. The influence of tree huggers has taken an old product that worked off the market.
Go Navy!
 
HBarlow

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Are you a Navy veteran?

I ordered two cans of PG-107. In order to get the website to accept my order I had to provide a tractor make and model. I have a baby tractor - a Kubota BX I use for mowing, snow removal, and chores around my small place so entered the make and model. The site accepted it!

This company offers some nice insulating material and insulation kits.

I wish these tractor guys would make kits for Honda Pioneers also.

Thanks again.
 
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HBarlow

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No, I don't think so but maybe I'm missing something?

I plan to glue the rubber sheet to the cab back from the seat frame up to the rear window. I'll, remove the seat back.

I may have a challenge in reattaching the seat back. May have to obtain longer bolts.
 
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Hondasxs

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I wouldn't glue it. You will regret it in the future. Find another way to mount it so it can be removed and reinstalled.
The seat back and bottom itself should be enough to hold it in place long term.

But... to his, his own.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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HBarlow

HBarlow

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That makes sense but there is a lot of cab wall surrounding the seat back that would be left uncovered and not insulated if only the seat back is secured. A significant amount of noise and heat is transmitted through the thin cab wall.

What do you suggest doing about that?
 
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Old Ironsides
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No, I don't think so but maybe I'm missing something?

I plan to glue the rubber sheet to the cab back from the seat frame up to the rear window. I'll, remove the seat back.

I may have a challenge in reattaching the seat back. May have to obtain longer bolts.

That will be the problem with material that thick, you'll need longer bolts. Also a good amount of noise and heat come through the seatbelt latch area and I don't think material that thick could be put under the seat while maintaining adequate coverage. You'll have to leave big holes which defeats the purpose. The tolerances are pretty tight on that seat bottom refastening, there are pads under the seat that need to rest on the frame. In regards to weight, the one I make for the Rzr is the heaviest and weighs just under 4 lbs. My biggest concern when making these shields is not to encroach on the fit and function of factory safety items while achieving the maximum amount of coverage.
Consider doing it to your roof but I'd hold off on gluing anything under or behind the seats. The feedback I've had from the P1 shield is that it substantially blocks the heat and noise in that area and actually moves it to the top of the seat. One tester said he was going to try stuffing a pool noodle in there.
 
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HBarlow

HBarlow

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I'll think about your comments but at this point, I have not removed the seat back so cannot make informed decisions. I won't remove the seat back until sometime next week when I have the rubber material in hand.
 
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