P1000 Aux Lithium Battery

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TOGAvenged7x

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I have read good reviews about Antigravity batteries. I need a battery for my aux battery and I'd prefer lithium. Has anyone used this brand? Which model did you go with?
 
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Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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I use one in both the Talon and Pioneer.
But for the cranking battery.

I briefly looked one time. But we need to find the max output/time.

Some lithium batteries can't output 200+ amps for more than a few seconds. The BMS will kill it. Meaning it's not a good battery for winching.

I don't have your answer.

Don't forget your lithium isolator.
 
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CID

CID

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I can't speak to the points @Hondasxs brought up (very high amp draw) but - over on ADVRider, a guy decided to test lithium batteries, he had a ton of knowledge and high dollar test equipment. He kept his thread running for 3 or 4 years - his takeaway was that Antigravity and EarthX were the two best available.

He'd go on long rants about Shorai's 'false' advertising, refusing to use standard measuring practices like CCA, for instance.

Another point, they really suffer in cold temperatures.
 
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Remington

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Another point, they really suffer in cold temperatures.
☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻THIS FO SHO !☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻
 
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TOGAvenged7x

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What do we classify as cold? Below freezing for weeks at a time?

I live in Southern SC.
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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I can't speak to the points @Hondasxs brought up (very high amp draw) but - over on ADVRider, a guy decided to test lithium batteries, he had a ton of knowledge and high dollar test equipment. He kept his thread running for 3 or 4 years - his takeaway was that Antigravity and EarthX were the two best available.

He'd go on long rants about Shorai's 'false' advertising, refusing to use standard measuring practices like CCA, for instance.

Another point, they really suffer in cold temperatures.
lol - forgot about that - all that and may need a battery heater, possibly add 3rd battery and controls in cold climates

love it when a simple solution turns into an over complicated engineering project to make the bling rock lites work
 
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TOGAvenged7x

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lol - forgot about that - all that and may need a battery heater, possibly add 3rd battery and controls in cold climates

love it when a simple solution turns into an over complicated engineering project to make the bling rock lites work
Lol, mine is for running light bars and light pods. This hurricane had me out past dark for a week and made me realize I need more lighting and I opted for the pods that flash white, yellow or both given I was on the side of a road chopping up my trees that had fallen on the front side of my property.
 
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CID

CID

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What do we classify as cold? Below freezing for weeks at a time?

I live in Southern SC.
It's been a long time since I was following that thread but not for weeks at a time. Any temp drop to ~35* and starting a motorcycle would become considerably more difficult. Once the battery itself reached ~35*, problems would begin. And since they have very little mass, their temp drops as fast as the surrounding air.

Check out Antigravity's site - you need to know if they're up to high draw applications, like your winch.
 
Remington

Remington

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Lol, mine is for running light bars and light pods. This hurricane had me out past dark for a week and made me realize I need more lighting and I opted for the pods that flash white, yellow or both given I was on the side of a road chopping up my trees that had fallen on the front side of my property.
Just stick with the tried and trusted std battery system with all that your running. Work smarter not harder or Buy once cry once or whatever floats your boat.
Note, You also have to be careful when float charging Lith’s as well. Charger has to be specific to them and you cant mix std like AGM with a Lith either, my buddy thats the ERV specialist mechanic at a dealer tells me. End result is bad he says.

We havent seen pics if your rig like we kindly asked and have answered alot of question youve had. With all these lights and stuff inquiring minds got our imagination running wild of what machine we are trying to help here! 😉

This is the battery i have and most here get
ML26-12 12V 26AH Sealed 12 Volt... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHNMJWK?tag=sxsweb24-20
 
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TOGAvenged7x

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Aiken SC
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  1. 1000-5
Just stick with the tried and trusted std battery system with all that your running. Work smarter not harder or Buy once cry once or whatever floats your boat.
Note, You also have to be careful when float charging Lith’s as well. Charger has to be specific to them and you cant mix std like AGM with a Lith either, my buddy thats the ERV specialist mechanic at a dealer tells me. End result is bad he says.

We havent seen pics if your rig like we kindly asked and have answered alot of question youve had. With all these lights and stuff inquiring minds got our imagination running wild of what machine we are trying to help here! 😉

This is the battery i have and most here get
ML26-12 12V 26AH Sealed 12 Volt... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHNMJWK?tag=sxsweb24-20
My bad i had not seen the request for pics!

My p1000 came with a winch wired from the factory so im not seeing the need to rewire to the aux battery but I may. I have two sets of the attached light bar and pods for front and back but I need the second battery and the isolator kit as well.
20241013 143620
Screenshot 20241013 142516 Amazon Shopping
 
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Remington

Remington

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My bad i had not seen the request for pics!

My p1000 came with a winch wired from the factory so im not seeing the need to rewire to the aux battery but I may. I have two sets of the attached light bar and pods for front and back but I need the second battery and the isolator kit as well. View attachment 446828View attachment 446827
There we go! 👍🏻 Nice rig, I like the Camo.
If your running a winch plus the other stuff, Id hook it to an aux batt. These Hondas are voltage sensitive for the DCT etc. its good to keep the main battery for the OEM things of the rig as much as possible and Accessories to a second battery with true isolator. Youll be better in the long run 😉
 
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Average_Joe

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I run lithium, they run at a higher voltage that's why you can't mix the chemistries and need chargers that are designed to charge them. I personally like the weight and how well they handle bouncing back from being ran dead and how fast they can charge back up. On our KRX I run the True am lithium isolator with three batteries, I have the stock lead acid and 2 Lifepo4 lithium in parallel. The lithium batteries were bought for our Wildcat X but I couldn't find a place to mount them they sat for 3 years or I would have went with one larger lithium in the krx. But the pair handle my Garmin accessory controller and everything I have connected to it, 8 rock lights, 2 whip lights, 2 blue sea usb chargers and a 42in rough country Spectrum light bar. The Garmin powerswitch tells me the voltage of the lithium batteries and the total amp draw. I can watch the voltage sag real time when I start turning stuff on the USB chargers, whips and rocks don't pull enough to register and the voltage may drop .3 volts but the light bar when I turn it on it pulls 15 amps and can drop the voltage 1-2 volts it bounces back.

When the main battery goes in the krx if they can handle winch draw I'll be going lithium but I also for now live in a warmer climate if we dip into the 30's it's for a few days then back to the 70's.
 
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