P1000 Battery upgrade

[Yotebuster]

been reading a lot very disappointed in the Pioneer battery set up from factory seems they REALLY dropped the ball here, anyway have not found anybody posting about a real good battery upgrade to fit in factory battery location and possibly avoid having to wire a second battery? is there a option people have used? Found this battery ??

https://www.amazon.com/RGZ16H-WS-Replacement-Battery-SXS1000M3-SXS1000M5/dp/B07W4RXZCP?tag=sxsweb24-20

surely has to be a single battery option that will fit under hood and do the job and not have to modify a $20,000 machine right away seems like honda should have did a recall or something to fix the problem or maybe I’m over exaggerating the problem?

 

[Admin]

 

[trigger]

I think it's being exaggerated. Pretty sure all the Pioneers come with a Yuasa and you'll play hell finding a better battery for its size.

 

[Scoop]

I think it's being exaggerated. Pretty sure all the Pioneers come with a Yuasa and you'll play hell finding a better battery for its size.

Gotta agree with this.

Also, even if there is/was a "better" battery to replace the OEM battery, it's not going to be as good as a dual battery setup (with an isolator, especially if you install accessories).

 

[Yotebuster]

Gotta agree with this.

Also, even if there is/was a "better" battery to replace the OEM battery, it's not going to be as good as a dual battery setup (with an isolator, especially if you install accessories).

well understand that but will be running a Heater and occasionally 12” light bar factory installed on my Limited SE edition do not want to run into problems but dang shouldn’t have to run a 2nd battery if the factory battery and set up is any good!! but most seem to think so from what I read. has factory installed winch too but of course limited use only when needed not plowing

 

[Scoop]

well understand that but will be running a Heater and occasionally 12” light bar factory installed on my Limited SE edition do not want to run into problems but dang shouldn’t have to run a 2nd battery if the factory battery and set up is any good!! but most seem to think so from what I read. has factory installed winch too but of course limited use only when needed not plowing

Sounds like you've done some reading here already. Please keep reading.

It's not that a single battery "can't handle it", per se. It's mostly a inexpensive insurance policy in case you find yourself drawing a significant amount of juice (e.g., winching, radio will hanging out, etc.). The DCT is very fickle and likes plenty of power to shift properly.

 

[PJon]

been reading a lot very disappointed in the Pioneer battery set up from factory seems they REALLY dropped the ball here, anyway have not found anybody posting about a real good battery upgrade to fit in factory battery location and possibly avoid having to wire a second battery? is there a option people have used? Found this battery ??

https://www.amazon.com/RGZ16H-WS-Replacement-Battery-SXS1000M3-SXS1000M5/dp/B07W4RXZCP?tag=sxsweb24-20

surely has to be a single battery option that will fit under hood and do the job and not have to modify a $20,000 machine right away seems like honda should have did a recall or something to fix the problem or maybe I’m over exaggerating the problem?

I read all of the posts, and installed the second isolated battery. OEM battery is still doing well after 3 years but only runs OEM lights, trans and injection. Second batt runs winch, GMRS radio, spal underseat fan and usb charge ports. I’ve had trans gremlins which were corrected by tightening battery posts and checking grounds. Normally charges both batteries at 14.0 volts, but have noticed when spal fan is turned on that aux battery voltage drops to 13.7 volts. The problem is not the batteries, but rather the stator which only puts out so many watts. Don’t expect miracles when you load up your charging system with loads of accessories, put the second battery in and let it run the extra goodies. You don’t want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere because of low voltage on the trans and fuel system.

 

[bumperm]

surely has to be a single battery option that will fit under hood and do the job and not have to modify a $20,000 machine

If your SE only cost $20K, I got hosed!! The SE comes with the winch wired directly to it's battery. If you ever find yourself in a position where you can't run the engine while winching, and it's a good, serious pull, you'll be quite pleased with yourself for having added that second battery and shifted the winch power leads to that! Redundancy is most always a good thing, 'cept trying to make it work with girlfriends or wives.

 

[Rayger143]

@bumperm nailed it. Lights and tunes etc are nice to have with your buggy shut down. Get the isolated battery setup and don’t look back.

 

[HBarlow]

Finding a quality battery with higher amperage rating is easy. Any good automotive battery will provide what you want. The challenge is to find a large automotive battery that will fit in the small space provided. I suspect that is impossible.

Honda's goal was a battery that met the electrical load of a standard buggy, is light in weight, and small. Their choice was a compromise.

If greater capacity is required you could always use a boat battery box and secure it in the bed with long cables.

 

[Ohio4x4]

Finding a quality battery with higher amperage rating is easy. Any good automotive battery will provide what you want. The challenge is to find a large automotive battery that will fit in the small space provided. I suspect that is impossible.

Honda's goal was a battery that met the electrical load of a standard buggy, is light in weight, and small. Their choice was a compromise.

If greater capacity is required you could always use a boat battery box and secure it in the bed with long cables.

Under the drivers seat there's room for any full size battery.

 

[HBarlow]

Under the drivers seat there's room for any full size battery.

That would be a practical solution but that's where my Inferno cab heater is installed.

 

[Yotebuster]

If your SE only cost $20K, I got hosed!! The SE comes with the winch wired directly to it's battery. If you ever find yourself in a position where you can't run the engine while winching, and it's a good, serious pull, you'll be quite pleased with yourself for having added that second battery and shifted the winch power leads to that! Redundancy is most always a good thing, 'cept trying to make it work with girlfriends or wives.

yes the factory winch wired to positive side of starter relay.from winch contactor then when you move that and the factory installed switch panel power wire over to secondary battery now you have no voltage meter on your main battery because it is tied into the factory switch panel harness someplace isn’t it?

 

[bumperm]

yes the factory winch wired to positive side of starter relay.from winch contactor then when you move that and the factory installed switch panel power wire over to secondary battery now you have no voltage meter on your main battery because it is tied into the factory switch panel harness someplace isn’t it?

No, not on my SE, anyway. I moved *only* the winch from the main battery to the Aux. This had no effect on t,he stock voltmeter (which I later removed when I installed a dual voltmeter to display both batteries). While the original voltmeter used key-on positive, with the dual voltmeter, both positives are applied to the meter continuously, with only the ground switched so the meter displays at "key-on". I added a momentary push button to apply ground to the meter when key-off, so I can check bat voltage without ignition on - it's right below the meter in the pic below.

To be clear, I think most leave most of the original "factory switched positive" stuff, such as starter, ECU, headlights, taillights, ignition related stuff, etc. on the original main battery. The Aux battery is typically used for the winch and most all added accessories such as light bars, radio etc. . . . though some of that will be wired so it's "key-on" only by utilizing a relay to energize the accessory fuse block.

 

[Yotebuster]

OK so if I move the positive power for the factory switch panel from the starter relay to the second battery it will not affect the volt meter on orig battery? I will be adding a heater and the factory switch panel and everything under the hood has Oem plug and play stuff for heater and wipers etc. so if I move that power wire to the accessory battery everything ithat is wired on the switch panel should be powered through the second battery at least I’m thinking so then I just have to unhook the factory ground wire extra one that they come with that’s connected to the winch contactor swing that around to the second battery and then run a negative from the second battery to the winch contactor swap the power from contactor on the starter relay to the second battery positive and should be all good besides the Ture isolator in there of course? think I’m getting right in my head anyway. The factory OEM switch plate and harness stuff kind of played with my mind for a little bit on how to make sure I’m wired up right

 

[bumperm]

OK so if I move the positive power for the factory switch panel from the starter relay to the second battery it will not affect the volt meter on orig battery? I will be adding a heater and the factory switch panel and everything under the hood has Oem plug and play stuff for heater and wipers etc. so if I move that power wire to the accessory battery everything ithat is wired on the switch panel should be powered through the second battery at least I’m thinking so then I just have to unhook the factory ground wire extra one that they come with that’s connected to the winch contactor swing that around to the second battery and then run a negative from the second battery to the winch contactor swap the power from contactor on the starter relay to the second battery positive and should be all good besides the Ture isolator in there of course? think I’m getting right in my head anyway. The factory OEM switch plate and harness stuff kind of played with my mind for a little bit on how to make sure I’m wired up right

Maybe we're mixing up titles here but the "starter relay", which is normally referred to as a "starter solenoid or contactor", stays on the main battery! You move *only* the heavy wire from the winch, or winch solenoid/contactor, from the positive terminal of the main battery to the positive terminal of the aux battery. Note that to keep wiring on the actual battery terminals to a minimum (a good thing when changing batteries), you can instead connect the winch to the appropriate 5/16" terminal on the True isolator (if installed).

No intent to be disparaging, but if you are not familiar with wiring etc, there are some good instructional videos and wiring diagrams that have been previously posted here that will point you in the right direction. As is often the case, there's more than one way to get 'er done according to your needs.

 

[Yakman]

Here's what I'm using and its been powering all my peripheral equipment just fine without drawing on engine battery. With the isolator between batteries you won't draw from the main but during charging the isolator will allow charging of secondary battery once main is charged.

Amazon.com: 12V 26AH Battery Replacement for Odyssey PC925 : Health & Household

Amazon.com: 12V 26AH Battery Replacement for Odyssey PC925 : Health & Household

www.amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WRG2U58/?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[Yakman]

No, not on my SE, anyway. I moved *only* the winch from the main battery to the Aux. This had no effect on t,he stock voltmeter (which I later removed when I installed a dual voltmeter to display both batteries). While the original voltmeter used key-on positive, with the dual voltmeter, both positives are applied to the meter continuously, with only the ground switched so the meter displays at "key-on". I added a momentary push button to apply ground to the meter when key-off, so I can check bat voltage without ignition on - it's right below the meter in the pic below.

To be clear, I think most leave most of the original "factory switched positive" stuff, such as starter, ECU, headlights, taillights, ignition related stuff, etc. on the original main battery. The Aux battery is typically used for the winch and most all added accessories such as light bars, radio etc. . . . though some of that will be wired so it's "key-on" only by utilizing a relay to energize the accessory fuse block.

View attachment 320318

I have that temperature gauge too!

 

[Yotebuster]

I have that temperature gauge too!

Maybe we're mixing up titles here but the "starter relay", which is normally referred to as a "starter solenoid or contactor", stays on the main battery! You move *only* the heavy wire from the winch, or winch solenoid/contactor, from the positive terminal of the main battery to the positive terminal of the aux battery. Note that to keep wiring on the actual battery terminals to a minimum (a good thing when changing batteries), you can instead connect the winch to the appropriate 5/16" terminal on the True isolator (if installed).

No intent to be disparaging, but if you are not familiar with wiring etc, there are some good instructional videos and wiring diagrams that have been previously posted here that will point you in the right direction. As is often the case, there's more than one way to get 'er done according to your needs.

no we’re on the same page it’s just that the positive winch cable from the winch contactor goes to the starter solenoid right next to primary battery on SE model instead of directly to the positive Side of the primary battery for power that’s only difference same difference just move that wire

lots of great info on this place!!! and appreciate all the help.

 

[BDW1]

been reading a lot very disappointed in the Pioneer battery set up from factory seems they REALLY dropped the ball here, anyway have not found anybody posting about a real good battery upgrade to fit in factory battery location and possibly avoid having to wire a second battery? is there a option people have used? Found this battery ??

https://www.amazon.com/RGZ16H-WS-Replacement-Battery-SXS1000M3-SXS1000M5/dp/B07W4RXZCP?tag=sxsweb24-20

surely has to be a single battery option that will fit under hood and do the job and not have to modify a $20,000 machine right away seems like honda should have did a recall or something to fix the problem or maybe I’m over exaggerating the problem?

As has been stated in other replies, not sure it is an immediate issue if running very light accessories. However, putting in a duel battery system with isolator is super simple and a great foundation to grow/build upon as you find additional accessories you can't live without. I have done four units already. 2016, 2018, 2021 (father-in-laws) and just in the past weeks another 2021 of my own.

And to Honda's credit, they provide the battery space and factory installed ground (Neg) wiring right from the factory. First thing I did! Truely, even before putting my first mile on the machine. And before mile 10; I had switch panel, front and rear bar LEDs, dome light, cargo light and winch... the point is you going to end up adding "can't live without" accessories so bite the bullet and duel the battery. You won't be sorry.

 

[someguy1313]

following along