Broken + stuck ball joint advice

[ranchdad]

Hey everyone, broke a couple of ball joints last week (previous post). No issues getting the upper ball joint off but the lower is stuck. Two issues I see, first being the lip is bent over the arm-hole and second the wiggly piece (for lack of a better term) is gone so there is nothing solid to apply pressure to. For context, I'm using the harbor freight ball joint press

I started to press on the open side but stopped after the realization that it's likely going to punch through the back rather than press out. Anyone run into this before? Hoping there is an easier way than burning through a bunch of dremel cutting wheels

 

[Neohio]

Can you use a 1/2" deep socket in place of the ball stud that is missing and push it out?

 

[ranchdad]

Can you use a 1/2" deep socket in place of the ball stud that is missing and push it out?

good idea, I hadn't considered that. quick sanity check, it does press on the ball stud side right?

 

[Neohio]

good idea, I hadn't considered that. quick sanity check, it does press on the ball stud side right?

Sometimes we are so concerned with doing things properly, we overlook backyard engineering to get it done.

And yes, apply force to the stud side, the joint bucket should pop out the other end.

 

[ToddACimer]

With a HF BJ press you should be able to put the shaft inside the BJ cup and the smallest collar on the lower side of the a-arm and push it through. Alternatively a chisel on the stud side can be used to crush the ball joint body. Chisel it front side, back side and knuckle side, it'll almost fall out once deformed

 

[Scoop]

With a HF BJ press you should be able to put the shaft inside the BJ cup and the smallest collar on the lower side of the a-arm and push it through. Alternatively a chisel on the stud side can be used to crush the ball joint body. Chisel it front side, back side and knuckle side, it'll almost fall out once deformed

22% off for a few more days!

 

[P1K5Dave]

Or a kit like Scoop posted can be borrowed for free on an Autozone or Advanced loaner tool program.

 

[Scoop]

Or a kit like Scoop posted can be borrowed for free on an Autozone or Advanced loaner tool program.

Real men don't borrow tools. 🤣 🤣 J/K

 

[ToddACimer]

Real men don't borrow tools. 🤣 🤣 J/K

Honestly this is 100% true. I'm not saying I have the tools to do whatever on a Tuesday. But buying tools after I got married meant that on any given day I could tackle a car/truck/SXS project on a weekday and have the tools to finish it so I still had a weekend for fun. I like to say I nailed it.

 

[Scoop]

For me, I prefer to have the peace of mind that I have the tools to do a job, no matter when or how often I want to do it, and without having to rely on or wait for someone else. I also don't mind being the guy who has an obscure tool or two that someone else can borrow.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Angle grinder and hammer is a cheap and fast solution. Might be preferred from the s*** show pics I just saw lol

 

[ranchdad]

With a HF BJ press you should be able to put the shaft inside the BJ cup and the smallest collar on the lower side of the a-arm and push it through. Alternatively a chisel on the stud side can be used to crush the ball joint body. Chisel it front side, back side and knuckle side, it'll almost fall out once deformed

Thanks I'll give the chisel a shot today. Tried the socket suggestion and it started but the mushroomed ball joint body is too deformed to push through. I'll post a pic later if anyone is interested

update: chisel worked

 

[ToddACimer]

Thanks I'll give the chisel a shot today. Tried the socket suggestion and it started but the mushroomed ball joint body is too deformed to push through. I'll post a pic later if anyone is interested

update: chisel worked

Glad you got it out

 

[ranchdad]

Ok new ball joints are on but I'm having an issue getting it all connected to the knuckle.

I've tried:
top arm/axle/shock first but then the lower ball joint wont reach
lower arm/axle first but then the top ball joint wont work

When I take the axle out, everything fits fine (second pic) so I have a hunch it has something to do with that. If you look at the first pic, the axle boot is bent at the knuckle rather than the CV boot closer. Did I put the axle in wrong/damaged?

 

[ToddACimer]

Make sure the splines are fully seated on the axle shaft into the knuckle

 

[CID]

New at this, but assuming the P1K is like a Talon - did the circlip click all the way into the differential?

 

[ranchdad]

thanks for the replies. Honestly I'm not sure, I just made sure it was in as far as the other side lol. Sounds like a bit over my head, know where I can find more info on this? searched the service manual for 'axle' and couldnt find much

 

[ToddACimer]

thanks for the replies. Honestly I'm not sure, I just made sure it was in as far as the other side lol. Sounds like a bit over my head, know where I can find more info on this? searched the service manual for 'axle' and couldnt find much

I've always installed both ball joints, then the axle and then the lower a-arms bolts. There's hardly room to torque the lower BJ nut with the axle in place.

 

[ranchdad]

I've always installed both ball joints, then the axle and then the lower a-arms bolts. There's hardly room to torque the lower BJ nut with the axle in place.

That's a good idea, do you attach the shock to the upper arm before or after putting the axle in place? Watching install videos on Youtube, seems like nobody else has the same issue.

 

[ToddACimer]

That's a good idea, do you attach the shock to the upper arm before or after putting the axle in place? Watching install videos on Youtube, seems like nobody else has the same issue.

Shock goes on last