P700 Cam replacement

[A Hornsby]

Hi all I'm going to be tearing into my 15 700 to check the cam. From what I've been able to find a lot of it's symptoms sound like a worn cam. My question is are there any tech articles that outline the process with torque values parts that should be replaced and things to watch out for?

 

[Buggyman]

Hi all I'm going to be tearing into my 15 700 to check the cam. From what I've been able to find a lot of it's symptoms sound like a worn cam. My question is are there any tech articles that outline the process with torque values parts that should be replaced and things to watch out for?

you can check the search bar on the upper right corner, or I believe if you upgrade to Lifetime member for a small fee you can access the SERVICE manual on the forum.

 

[HondaTech]

Always replace the buckets as well, the cam lobe that's worn will always damage that valves bucket.

Get the gasket kit from Honda, it includes the copper washers for the head cover bolts.

Id probably replace the valve adj. cap orings too.

Don't take the thermostat cover off unless it shows to be leaking.

The airbox can be left in, just loosen the clamp screw at the head and push the whole assembly back, throttle body and all. You'll need to take the vent hose off the bottom of the cylinder first though.

The exhaust doesn't need to be split, just take the nuts off the head, remove the mount bolts and move it to the drivers side.

I'm sure there's other tricks I'm forgetting.

 

[A Hornsby]

Always replace the buckets as well, the cam lobe that's worn will always damage that valves bucket.

Get the gasket kit from Honda, it includes the copper washers for the head cover bolts.

Id probably replace the valve adj. cap orings too.

Don't take the thermostat cover off unless it shows to be leaking.

The airbox can be left in, just loosen the clamp screw at the head and push the whole assembly back, throttle body and all. You'll need to take the vent hose off the bottom of the cylinder first though.

The exhaust doesn't need to be split, just take the nuts off the head, remove the mount bolts and move it to the drivers side.

I'm sure there's other tricks I'm forgetting.

Thanks so much that's exactly what I was wanting.

I did some checking today I don't have any dial indicators but used a straight edge and calipers to measure the amount of opening on the valves and got .317 of movement on the exhaust but only. 188 on the intake does that sound right I'm thinking they should be closer than that

 

[A Hornsby]

I also noticed there's a snapping noise everytime just before the exhaust valves start to open

 

[DG Rider]

Assuming it doesn't wipe a cam between now and then, next time I do a valve check, I gonna record a video of the valves moving just so people can have a rough guide of how they should look.

 

[HondaTech]

The valves can't be checked normally to verify a wiped cam. Since on TDC compression the rocker arm is on the base circle not the lobe.

So you'd need to find the T mark, check the clearance if it's super excessive (on TDC overlap) then turn the crank 360 degrees and check again.

This should put you on TDC compression and the valves should be tighter but still have clearance. The excessive clearance 360 degrees back would indicate a wiped lobe since the rocker arm is on the lobe.

I'm not sure about the movement of the valve tbh, I don't know if the lobe heights are the same off hand. But the intake is the one that usually goes bad first. The easiest way to tell is a low rev limit or really slow acceleration and lack of shifting into third since the engine lacks rpm to get there

 

[A Hornsby]

I wasn't trying to check the valves just merely measuring how far it opened the valves. Turn anything 360 degrees and it'll put your right back in the exact same spot. Those are the symptoms and no matter what else I've done they've stayed the same thanks. Guess I'll start ordering parts to change out the cam

 

[HondaTech]

I wasn't trying to check the valves just merely measuring how far it opened the valves. Turn anything 360 degrees and it'll put your right back in the exact same spot. Those are the symptoms and no matter what else I've done they've stayed the same thanks. Guess I'll start ordering parts to change out the cam

On a 4 stroke engine, the piston is at TDC twice in a 360 degree rotation. Once at compression, both valves closed, and once at overlap, when both valves are slightly open.

The valves normally feel tight on overlap, but since the lobe is worn they will be excessively loose.

 

[A Hornsby]

On a 4 stroke engine, the piston is at TDC twice in a 360 degree rotation. Once at compression, both valves closed, and once at overlap, when both valves are slightly open.

The valves normally feel tight on overlap, but since the lobe is worn they will be excessively loose.

Exactly right which means you only turn the crank 180 degrees to get to overlap from compression like I said 360 degrees puts you right back to where you started but thanks I didn't even think about checking at overlap

 

[HondaTech]

Exactly right which means you only turn the crank 180 degrees to get to overlap from compression like I said 360 degrees puts you right back to where you started but thanks I didn't even think about checking at overlap

Maybe I'm just not explaining it correctly. The camshaft moves at half the speed of the crankshaft. So 360 degrees of the crankshaft is 180 degrees of the cam.