P1000 Electrical Help

CumminsPusher

CumminsPusher

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For the relayed switches all they need is low power. Accessory wire type thing. But yes you could. If you do anything off of the headlight switch I'd keep it low power fused and/or relayed. I'm not a fan of using factory to power anything up
 
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I have a question about using the universal waterproof fuse/relay box. For simplicities sake, I am going to just wire all of my light bars and pod lights through the relays. My question is, can I use the fused non-relay wires to provide power to my switches? I was thinking about using one of the 15amp fused circuits and jumpering it across all the switches. Then tapping the headlight wire to power the led backlights. Do any of you see a problem with this?
Yes. This will work.
 
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jasontjames

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For the relayed switches all they need is low power. Accessory wire type thing. But yes you could. If you do anything off of the headlight switch I'd keep it low power fused and/or relayed. I'm not a fan of using factory to power anything up

If I don't use a factory wire, how do I get the leds backlights on the switches to not be on all the time? My thought was to use the headlight wire so that the backlights would only be on when the headlights were on.
 
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CumminsPusher

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Backlights on the switches! JJ yes sorry I thought you were referring to the back up lights. Absolutely!! Yes they do not draw enough current to matter. I'm sorry for my own confusion!! But still fuse it. Now I have recently found a setup for automatic turn on at dusk that's super cheap and easy as well and that's what I'm now running. because I don't like having to use the headlights If interested I could tell you more but yes you were on the right track.
 
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jasontjames

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Backlights on the switches! JJ yes sorry I thought you were referring to the back up lights. Absolutely!! Yes they do not draw enough current to matter. I'm sorry for my own confusion!! But still fuse it. Now I have recently found a setup for automatic turn on at dusk that's super cheap and easy as well and that's what I'm now running. because I don't like having to use the headlights If interested I could tell you more but yes you were on the right track.


Please tell me more!! I would like to not have to use headlights.
 
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There are three setups that I've found. I bought this one just to test and it works great but the mounting sucks. It's hard to find a good spot where it's not horrible. I just mounted it on top of the dash.
Image

Now I have ordered two more understand they are all reasonable I like things automated and hate splicing anything into factory at all and have yet to on this vehicle. This second one should be here in a couple of days and am very excited because it's based off of everything the other is with a remote sensor that could be placed say just above the hood or top of dash as well. This is definitely what I would suggest based off of the prior unit but it was a little unclear as it said 12v 120v so I'm assuming it'll be fine. It's three wires as well as the other super simple. Ground wire/power wire (same as accessory) /and one going to your switch lights. That easy. You can see the remote sensor. So...you turn on power to your rig it gets power and when it's dark it turns on switches fully auto. You don't need to even turn on headlights. If dark key gos on they light up. Same as the pic on top but unit is waterproof in the engine compartment.
Image



Now if you had a wild hair the next one I ordered just for fun to try a couple things out on interior lighting and can be multi controlled is harder to hookup and I'm not even sure what I'm going to do other then try it.
Image

But the center one is the one. Like I said I'm trying to make sure but... Really not complicated to use. if it works same as the other then it works awesome! Be easier to hide is all. I will report on that but see no problems with it if the information was correct. Nicer then cutting Honda stuff up and you don't have to run headlights just to see. Plus it's just cool :)
 
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N

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If I don't use a factory wire, how do I get the leds backlights on the switches to not be on all the time? My thought was to use the headlight wire so that the backlights would only be on when the headlights were on.

Forgive me for chiming in without completely reading all of your thread. Check out this info on Key on Power. It is a great way to power your switches, can be jumped across the whole panel and save your five circuits for other things. I use the always on fused circuits to actually power the accessories and the key on power to light the switches. That way, I get power to those accessories without turning on the key, such as work lighting, interior lights and the like. I just used the relayed circuits for my heavier lifting like my light bar and such.

key on power | The Honda Side by Side Club!
 
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CumminsPusher

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Yes we know that. If you look back overa year ago a lot of the current systems are based loosely off of a previous design. Done a couple of these:) even this thread is pretty old. this is kinda beyond that a bit. With the current setups you have to tie off factory wiring I'm trying to get away from that totally and automate things. I've always tried hard to leave the factory Honda alone. All I mentioned here was the illumination can be ran to a simple external unit rather then splicing into the headlight switch. Then for people that have lots of light you don't need to run the poor lighting from the headlights to turn on switch illumination and suck up an additional 50+ watts from the Honda. Headlights become optional
 
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I'm just about ready to start the wiring project for lights, etc. I already have the 2nd battery installed. I've been doing a lot of homework here and have come up with this for how I will install the PDM. It's pretty simple, but I thought I would run it by everyone here for input and scrutiny, and maybe help someone else out that is pondering their own install.

2nd Battery for Pioneer


Accessory power will come from here P1000 - Key On Power, Illumination, and backup source! - Honda Pioneer 1000 That will be the only connection to the original wiring of the machine.

The inline relay will be this, or something similar Amazon.com: TE tyco BOSCH 75 Amp High Current 12 Volt Automotive Relay SPST: Automotive

The inline fuse is what came with the universal relay.

Comments, suggestions and scrutiny is gladly accepted and appreciated!
 
TexasHeat

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No it's a power distribution module, has circuit breakers built in. It will automate a few of the things I want to do.

Automatic backup lights, Retained power after ignition power is dropped... You can get creative with it. You also don't need to carry spare fuses in your polaris repair kit.
yes i was checking that out from the other thread, looks great and on the list. thanks!
 

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