P500 Foreman engine in a P500?

P

Pax

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Hi,
I've had hell getting my 2018 P500 working after an air filter air and dust ingestion a couple years ago. Local mechanic (nondealer) has done a total of 3 top ends, new jug (bored again with last top end), new crank, new valve seals. Engine never makes it through a break in period without burning oil (oil will be off dipstick before I get through a tank of gas). Now it has a bad clunk that I suspect is clutch......I've been watching websites and calling Power Sports Nation for a new motor but have not had any success for several months. Has anyone installed a foreman 500 motor? They seem to be readily available. 2 local dealerships quoted me 7K for complete rebuild......The mechanic that did the repairs doesn't know why it keeps failing and doesn't know what else he can do to help.
Thanks,
Pax
 
H

HondaTech

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What does your dealer normally charge for a P500 rebuild?
$7K seems outrageous! I'd scrap it and buy a new P500!

Mike

With a crankshaft it should be under $3k-$4k i would think and that's on the high end.

I've never been in a P500 engine yet, plenty of 700 and a couple 1000. I've done a few 500 atvs, none of which would be anywhere that expensive, ofcourse there's a little more labor involved to removed and installed the engine on a SXS.
 
Remington

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With a crankshaft it should be under $3k-$4k i would think and that's on the high end.
$hit if thats the case, him trailering it to u from ID and back, hes still under the rape he was quoted!
Sounds like they seen him coming and are ready for the Cosby in a can treatment.

Id say @Pax needs to start calling other dealers in a 2-500 mile radius for other estimates
 
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H

HondaTech

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$hit if thats the case, him trailering it to u from ID and back, hes still under the rape he was quoted!
Sounds like they seen him coming and are ready for the Cosby in a can treatment.

Id say @Pax needs to start calling other dealers in a 2-500 mile radius for other estimates

I'm sure alot of places are pricing it at "not interested" prices.

I'd rather just tell you im not interested
 
Remington

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I'm sure alot of places are pricing it at "not interested" prices.

I'd rather just tell you im not interested
Yeah, we do the same thing sometimes with some generators that are in rough shape we don’t wanna mess with
 
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DRZRon1

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Hi,
I've had hell getting my 2018 P500 working after an air filter air and dust ingestion a couple years ago. Local mechanic (nondealer) has done a total of 3 top ends, new jug (bored again with last top end), new crank, new valve seals. Engine never makes it through a break in period without burning oil (oil will be off dipstick before I get through a tank of gas). Now it has a bad clunk that I suspect is clutch......I've been watching websites and calling Power Sports Nation for a new motor but have not had any success for several months. Has anyone installed a foreman 500 motor? They seem to be readily available. 2 local dealerships quoted me 7K for complete rebuild......The mechanic that did the repairs doesn't know why it keeps failing and doesn't know what else he can do to help.
Thanks,
Pax
jeez - any more local mechanics around?

a descent engine shop should be able to post measure, check and tell ya if your parts are good or bad.....I am sure you know, the manual has all the critical specs for cylinder bore, piston, etc....

I know I may be oversimplifying this, but jeez, its not that complicated with some knowledge and competence - especially when you are paying for the service.

this may sound off the wall, but you may want to consider shipping the thing to Hondatech, at least u will get a fair shake and a working machine - there are descent rates if you are not in a hurry to get it out and back, some good deals to be had when they just wanna fill the transport truck up.
 
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P

Pax

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Thanks for the replies. The Mechanic that has been working on it I think would do at least the labor part of any further work for free because he wants to fix the issue for me but is at a loss as to what else could be done. I brought up maybe changing the cylinder head since he's rebuilt most everything else, although that would be quite a bit of cash in parts for a shot in the dark. If I elect to surrender, what do you guys think would be reasonable to sell it for as is? I would be giving full disclosure of the issues of course. It has a heater, soft cab, roof, walker evans, front and rear light bars, snorkels to prevent further dust ingestion, around 1,100 miles. I even have a set of camso tracks with less than 100 miles on them, although I'll probably save them for the next machine.
 
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The Green Goat

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Buy one and do it yourself. Can't be that hard. Plus... DCT transmission would be a first.
 
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The Green Goat

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That would be an undertaking and a half

The PCM and wiring harness would need to be scrapped and then it would never be happy due to speed differences in gearing.
Hmmm. well that sucks. 😆. Was hoping he would do it and show me how.
 
Remington

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The Mechanic that has been working on it I think would do at least the labor part of any further work for free
If its still fuc’d up since he did the work, he should take it and do what it takes to fix it right for free! That would be the right thing to do!
If I elect to surrender, what do you guys think would be reasonable to sell it for as is?
With its issues? No more than $1,000 not including accessories.
If u go that rout Id part all the accessories out and sections of the rig. Cuz once you tell someone what the issues are and what the dealer quoted you, there gonna…..
1697164088648
 
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P

Pax

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I question if there is still dust in the motor. The mechanic said he cleaned it well but the cross hatching on the cylinder walls is usually gone around 100-150 miles on each rebuild. I think next step would be tear it all down and clean it again? Would replacing cylinder head be a good idea since that's pretty much the only thing that hasn't bee replaced in case bad valves? He put new valve seals on it once.
 
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Remington

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I question if there is still dust in the motor. The mechanic said he cleaned it well but the cross hatching on the cylinder walls is usually gone around 100-150 miles on each rebuild. I think next step would be tear it all down and clean it again? Would replacing cylinder head be a good idea since that's pretty much the only thing that hasn't bee replaced in case bad valves? He put new valve seals on it once.
Sounds bad enough that it just needs to be gone through and re don from scratch. Can just assume or you will be back where your at now again.
Thats why i said he should re do it for free cuz he missed things the first time.
And yes, at this point put on a new head and be done with it.
Pay once cry once.
 
DRZRon1

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I question if there is still dust in the motor. The mechanic said he cleaned it well but the cross hatching on the cylinder walls is usually gone around 100-150 miles on each rebuild. I think next step would be tear it all down and clean it again? Would replacing cylinder head be a good idea since that's pretty much the only thing that hasn't bee replaced in case bad valves? He put new valve seals on it once.
for s***s ang giggles, pull the intake off after the filter or at least push a damp rag down the tube - if its not spotless u still have crud in the system?? suggest to pull the intake all apart - could be a anything from a missing clamp to just never cleaned.
 
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JACKAL

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Thanks for the replies. The Mechanic that has been working on it I think would do at least the labor part of any further work for free because he wants to fix the issue for me but is at a loss as to what else could be done. I brought up maybe changing the cylinder head since he's rebuilt most everything else, although that would be quite a bit of cash in parts for a shot in the dark. If I elect to surrender, what do you guys think would be reasonable to sell it for as is? I would be giving full disclosure of the issues of course. It has a heater, soft cab, roof, walker evans, front and rear light bars, snorkels to prevent further dust ingestion, around 1,100 miles. I even have a set of camso tracks with less than 100 miles on them, although I'll probably save them for the next machine.
What about the valve guides, etc. if that engine was dusted well and the valves. valve guides, and valve seals, are damaged, you can defitely lose oil there. Something that could be overlooked if concentrationg on piston, rings, cylinder, etc.
 
P

Pax

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What about the valve guides, etc. if that engine was dusted well and the valves. valve guides, and valve seals, are damaged, you can defitely lose oil there. Something that could be overlooked if concentrationg on piston, rings, cylinder, etc.
Thanks, I was thinking the same, brought up replacing
What about the valve guides, etc. if that engine was dusted well and the valves. valve guides, and valve seals, are damaged, you can defitely lose oil there. Something that could be overlooked if concentrationg on piston, rings, cylinder, etc.
thanks, I brought up buying a new OEM cylinder head to my mechanic last week- he thought it couldn’t be that since he did new valve seals. I was thinking it either has to be valve guides or is still dusted? The cross hatching being gone on each rebuild makes me think still dirty?
 
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JACKAL

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Thanks, I was thinking the same, brought up replacing

thanks, I brought up buying a new OEM cylinder head to my mechanic last week- he thought it couldn’t be that since he did new valve seals. I was thinking it either has to be valve guides or is still dusted? The cross hatching being gone on each rebuild makes me think still dirty?
Well any rebuild is as only as good as the mechanic, and his attention to detail. I'll admit I used to do a lot 40 years ago in the ATC racing days both 2 & 4 stroke, but haven't been involved in any engine work internally in probably 20 years. Still basic principles apply for all small engine repairs. Never had to re-do a Honda 4 stroke until it hit 12K+ rpm tho o_O

It matters if its just been same size piston and maybe oversize rings, or was it over bored by 20 to 40 thousandths with a matching piston and rings? If it was tried to be repaired on the cheap there is a handful of variables the mechanic have have opted to not do that may be contributing to the oil consumption not being corrected.
 
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