P1000 Help! Submerged my 1000-5

[MVP2017]

Dropped my 1000-5 (No snorkel or ext vent lines) in a deep water hole last night, it died from water being sucked into the engine. This caused the unit to not turn over after being pulled out & trying to restart.(thank goodness) I pulled the plugs, blew the water out of the cylinders by cranking. Pulled the intake line off the breather due to the tube being full of water. Fired it up and limped it out of the creek to get home.
What all do i need to change /clean /replace?? I realize the obvious oil& filters, trans, front and rear diffs, fuel tank, air filter. Any other not so obvious things that need addressed?
I apologize if this has been asked and answered, if so can someone send me a link? I have searched the threads and can't find anything.
Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Admin]

 

[Bastardchild]

Dropped my 1000-5 (No snorkel or ext vent lines) in a deep water hole last night, it died from water being sucked into the engine. This caused the unit to not turn over after being pulled out & trying to restart.(thank goodness) I pulled the plugs, blew the water out of the cylinders by cranking. Pulled the intake line off the breather due to the tube being full of water. Fired it up and limped it out of the creek to get home.
What all do i need to change /clean /replace?? I realize the obvious oil& filters, trans, front and rear diffs, fuel tank, air filter. Any other not so obvious things that need addressed?
I apologize if this has been asked and answered, if so can someone send me a link? I have searched the threads and can't find anything.
Any help would be appreciated!

I think you got it covered. Buy lots of cheap oil, and filters for the first couple oil changes. Change oil, run it around the yard, change oil and filters, run it around the yard, repeat, repeat,..there will be a little grayish water residue that gets churned up from running it for a few minutes after every change. When the residue isnt noticeable anymore start changing the oil with the expensive hondaline recommended oil. Do the same with the diffs and sub trans, radiator, overflow bottle, and of course the gas tank. I imagine the gas tank will actually be the first thing you should clean out before doing any of this though. You will probably have to do the clutch initialization procedure after all this also if there seems to be any slippage. When everything is back to normal, study up how to extend vent lines from you tank, diffs, etc..and decide on what snorkle you like and install one for insurance against future deeper than expected water holes. Its not the end of the world, and Im sure other people will be along shortly to chime in. Oh yeah, pics or it didnt happen! Good luck!

 

[MVP2017]

I think you got it covered. Buy lots of cheap oil, and filters for the first couple oil changes. Change oil, run it around the yard, change oil and filters, run it around the yard, repeat, repeat,..there will be a little grayish water residue that gets churned up from running it for a few minutes after every change. When the residue isnt noticeable anymore start changing the oil with the expensive hondaline recommended oil. Do the same with the diffs and sub trans, radiator, overflow bottle, and of course the gas tank. I imagine the gas tank will actually be the first thing you should clean out before doing any of this though. You will probably have to do the clutch initialization procedure after all this also if there seems to be any slippage. When everything is back to normal, study up how to extend vent lines from you tank, diffs, etc..and decide on what snorkle you like and install one for insurance against future deeper than expected water holes. Its not the end of the world, and Im sure other people will be along shortly to chime in. Oh yeah, pics or it didnt happen! Good luck!

I think you got it covered. Buy lots of cheap oil, and filters for the first couple oil changes. Change oil, run it around the yard, change oil and filters, run it around the yard, repeat, repeat,..there will be a little grayish water residue that gets churned up from running it for a few minutes after every change. When the residue isnt noticeable anymore start changing the oil with the expensive hondaline recommended oil. Do the same with the diffs and sub trans, radiator, overflow bottle, and of course the gas tank. I imagine the gas tank will actually be the first thing you should clean out before doing any of this though. You will probably have to do the clutch initialization procedure after all this also if there seems to be any slippage. When everything is back to normal, study up how to extend vent lines from you tank, diffs, etc..and decide on what snorkle you like and install one for insurance against future deeper than expected water holes. Its not the end of the world, and Im sure other people will be along shortly to chime in. Oh yeah, pics or it didnt happen! Good luck!

Thank you! I did come across the clutch reinitialization. How about the fan and cable box that have vent lines?
And yes i'll be snorkeling before it goes out again!
LOL on pics! It was midnight in a thunderstorm all phones were being used for flashlights.

 

[Bastardchild]

Yes the cable box and fan motor have vent lines. Let me see if I can find the YouTube vid that I watched to learn how to vent everything. I'll post it on here if I can find it again.

 

[Bastardchild]

Found it! My wife has a 2018 P1000-5 and I watched this vid to learn how to vent hers.

 

[Bastardchild]

Also, if you plan on running deep water regularly, unscrew your gas cap and put silicon on the gas cap rubber gasket, then always tighten it as tight as you can. The type silicon that stays greasy and doesnt turn rubbery. Also, you could put dialectric grease in all your electrical connections. The little male/female quick connects. Thats mainly if you ride water alot. If you just have a splish splash out on the trails now and then youll probably be fine without.

 

[HondaTech]

Hopefully you havent bent a rod.

Any weird noises from the enigne?

Watch the oil level for signs of consumption, if the rod is bent just slightly it could cause the psiton to be forced into one side of the cylinder and wear the rings until they dont seal.

 

[MVP2017]

Hopefully you havent bent a rod.

Any weird noises from the enigne?

Watch the oil level for signs of consumption, if the rod is bent just slightly it could cause the psiton to be forced into one side of the cylinder and wear the rings until they dont seal.

I didn't hear anything different at all. I drove it about 2 miles to the truck after getting it fired back up. Im going to flush and change everything before i start it again. Had just done a service so I'm out of oil & filters. There was a considerable amount of water in the engine oil... a light tan color and runny texture. I will keep a close eye on the consumption thanks for the heads up!

 

[MVP2017]

Yes the cable box and fan motor have vent lines. Let me see if I can find the YouTube vid that I watched to learn how to vent everything. I'll post it on here if I can find it again.

I appreciate the info! My question was, should I be addressing anything with those other components that have vent lines but no fluid to change. Should I spray something in the vent lines on fan or cable box to displace the moisture? Should i take either of them apart to clean?
Thanks!

 

[Bastardchild]

Ahh I see what you mean. I think thats not a bad idea. The cable junction box is located under the floorboard behind the drivers seat, probably wouldnt hurt to pop it open and clean out any water and spray with some lube before you button it back up and vent it. There may be a bit of water in the fan motor vent hose. I guess it wouldnt hurt to take it off the back of the radiator and inspect. Maybe turn it upside down and see if water drips out or something and dry it out with an air hose or something. Maybe somebody else has a better idea. I know there is electrical component cleaner that comes in a spray can kinda like brake cleaner or wd-40, but Ive never used it.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

After draining I put diesel fuel in the diffs to collect water. Put the machine on jack stands and spin the tires for a minute then drain right away. It collects the water and cleans everything really well. I've seen it done in engines and trannys also. Otherwise keep changing oil and running for a minute or 2 until it comes out clear.

 

[MVP2017]

After draining I put diesel fuel in the diffs to collect water. Put the machine on jack stands and spin the tires for a minute then drain right away. It collects the water and cleans everything really well. I've seen it done in engines and trannys also. Otherwise keep changing oil and running for a minute or 2 until it comes out clear.

Actually that was my first thought, I just wasn't sure what kind of interaction issues there might be between the synthetic oils/fluids & the diesel. I agree it would displace the water faster and more effectively. Thanks for your input!

 

[MVP2017]

sub trans 1 1/2qt's on the top... engine & dct 7 1/2qt's on the bottom
front diff looked good... rear diff had a little water
Siphoned gas very little water.
I started to drain coolant but after looking/thinking isn't it a sealed loop system? Is there any way water could get in? If so wouldn't it be obvious at the overflow tank?
Difference in color isn't it the same oil?

 

[0860silverado]

View attachment 212435
sub trans 1 1/2qt's on the top... engine & dct 7 1/2qt's on the bottom
front diff looked good... rear diff had a little water
Siphoned gas very little water.
I started to drain coolant but after looking/thinking isn't it a sealed loop system? Is there any way water could get in? If so wouldn't it be obvious at the overflow tank?
Difference in color isn't it the same oil?

Honda calls for the same type of oil in the sub trans, and the engine/DCT, but the systems do not exchange oil at all. Completely separate cases. Only the engine and 6 speed DCT actually cycle the same oil between themselves.

 

[Bastardchild]

View attachment 212435
sub trans 1 1/2qt's on the top... engine & dct 7 1/2qt's on the bottom
front diff looked good... rear diff had a little water
Siphoned gas very little water.
I started to drain coolant but after looking/thinking isn't it a sealed loop system? Is there any way water could get in? If so wouldn't it be obvious at the overflow tank?
Difference in color isn't it the same oil?

It could get in your overflow tank and if the radiator needed to syphon from the overflow dirty water could be syphoned in the radiator. Honestly though I have never vented the overflow reservoir on anything Ive ever owned and havent really noticed a difference in the radiator fluid cleanliness/dirtyness.

 

[NTCPrezJB]

Sorry to hear of your troubles. How goes the fight against water contamination @MVP2017 ?

 

[MVP2017]

Sorry to hear of your troubles. How goes the fight against water contamination @MVP2017 ?

Left everything drained and open for last 24hrs. I've been researching fluids to displace water that is compatible with synthetic oils. Thinking I'm going to do a wd-40 flush before cheap oil flushes tonight. I will be picking up Honda oil & filters tomorrow for the final fill. Aaaand will be replacing all the vent lines to roof height.

 

[JcornRose]

Did the SAME thing last year. Found a lot of cheap oil at ace hardware, and even amazon. A lot of oil changes, Vented and snorkeled. She runs better than NEW.

 

[JcornRose]

Did the SAME thing last year. Found a lot of cheap oil at ace hardware, and even amazon. A lot of oil changes, Vented and snorkeled. She runs better than NEW.

The wife continues to send it harder than I do.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Was cringing at your thread title. Hopefully everything is still solid. Mine totally seized but our friends ran however needed a full rebuild so watch everything for a bit like has been said. The 1000 HATES water so you probably got lucky, that’s good to hear!