P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Internal gear reduction

[jaybyrd]

A Internal Gear Reduction for the Honda Pioneer 1000 has been developed.

• 25% primary drive reduction.
• Intended for running up to 31" tires.
• More positive clutch engagement with intended tire size.
• Top speed on stock tires - 53MPH.
• OEM Gear Quality.
• Can be installed with general mechanic tools.
• Detail instructions included.
• Must ship clutch gear hub and main rear engine cover to NC for machining.
• Small side effect, auto mode only works correctly up to 95% throttle.
• Full auto shifting piggyback fix in testing phase
• Performance videos coming soon!

Cost is $850 for parts, machining services and return shipping
Requires Clutch Gear Hub and Rear Cover Spacer to be removed and mailed to Mt Olive, North Carolina for work. 1 week turn around time.

Install Service
Machine can also be delivered to Mt Olive, NC for complete install.
Additional install cost is $500 plus oil.

Ordering Info, Install Details:
Contact Jeremy at [email protected] or 919-222-8969 (leave message).


Thanks.


Pictures of what needs to be shipped to NC for machining.

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

There are some videos of the GR. We will try to get them posted

 

[amc019]

Awesome, can't wait for more people to get theirs set up. I would be interested in seeing the instructions so I could determine if its a job I can perform on my own or not. I am a pretty decent mechanic, but I don't own a lot of special transmission-differential-esque tools.

 

[TOOLOUD]

I can txt videos to anyone who can post them up on here

 

[Scooterchris]

Does it get new clutches with the kit?

The clutches are perfectly fine in this machine.
The gears are way to high for a machine that when loaded is weighing anywhere from 2100 to 2500 lbs fully loaded etc.
A 10 or 15 percent reduction would really improve the Machine just on stock tires.
That's about what the pioneer is over geared compared to similar machines.
Now the 25 percent puts you a little better than stock while running 32's.
Do like myself and run 30 inch outbacks or similar and have one badass machine.
We've also cut weight off the gears themself as the overall not needed thickness allows the engine what seems to Rev quicker now.

 

[Delton]

The clutches are perfectly fine in this machine.
The gears are way to high for a machine that when loaded is weighing anywhere from 2100 to 2500 lbs fully loaded etc.
A 10 or 15 percent reduction would really improve the Machine just on stock tires.
That's about what the pioneer is over geared compared to similar machines.
Now the 25 percent puts you a little better than stock while running 32's.
Do like myself and run 30 inch outbacks or similar and have one badass machine.
We've also cut weight off the gears themself as the overall not needed thickness allows the engine what seems to Rev quicker now.

I'd say reducing weight of gears would make it rev quicker. I'm waiting for someone to remove the counterbalancer. I removed the one in my old cbr1100xx motor and it revved way quicker. I've installed IGR on a foreman before. Can't imagine this would be any harder. Just clearanced the case a little with a dremel if I remember correctly. This is on my to buy list but there's a couple of expensive items before it.

 

[Scooterchris]

I'd say reducing weight of gears would make it rev quicker. I'm waiting for someone to remove the counterbalancer. I removed the one in my old cbr1100xx motor and it revved way quicker. I've installed IGR on a foreman before. Can't imagine this would be any harder. Just clearanced the case a little with a dremel if I remember correctly. This is on my to buy list but there's a couple of expensive items before it.

I can say if you're gonna run a 30 Delton make sure it's true 30 and weighing atleast 50 lbs a piece.
Any smaller and lighter and it's just retarded power. Pardon my way of putting it

 

[Delton]

I can say if you're gonna run a 30 Delton make sure it's true 30 and weighing atleast 50 lbs a piece.
Any smaller and lighter and it's just retarded power. Pardon my way of putting it

I totally agree with that. My Evos aren't true to size but I plan on going different route next time. Something that is true.

 

[Kilo427]

Very interested in this guess I need to buy bigger tires first lol

 

[Scooterchris]

Very interested in this guess I need to buy bigger tires first lol

Don't have to if you don't want to just recommended for something a little heavier

 

[Scooterchris]

For anybody wondering what has to be done to get the clutch assembly out in order to send in the hub for the reduction work... The valvebody housing acts as the clutch cover, once you remove this component the clutch assembly will slide out of the engine, there are 8 bolts around the circumference at the rear of the housing where it mates to the main rear cover that have to be removed, don't bother with the bolts at the front of the housing (toward rear of machine), the valvebody is a 2-part assembly but you do not have to separate it to get to the clutches, just pull it off as one unit. There are two electrical connectors you have to unplug, one 2-pin blue connector to the left and flat wide connector to the right that feeds the three solenoids on the bottom of the valve body, those are the only two connections going to the valvebody itself but there are a few more to the right that you will have to unplug to get the harness out of the way, one going to the shift motor and one going to the angle sensor, there's a couple clips you'll have to pop loose holding the harness in place. Once you get the connections unplugged and bolts out the valvebody can be removed, you may have to jar it slightly buy it should come off easily. The only potential loose part to look for is a bearing that fits in the inside of the valvebody that supports the rear of the clutch and shaft. Once you get the housing off the clutch assembly will slide out, make sure the forward clutch inner hub plate comes out as well with the washer inside it. This is not the entire process to install the reduction, this is just what's needed to pull the clutch assembly so you can send in the clutch hub for machinework, the main rear cover has to be removed to get to the drive gear on the end of the crankshaft that gets swapped out as well but the stock drive gear is not needed for the reduction building, the drive gear gets replaced with a completely new gear.



There are 8 bolts total, some of them are shown here, one of the top bolts can't be completely removed because the head of the bolt contacts the emergency bypass valve, just leave the bolt loose in the housing.



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There's a sub-harness feeding the solenoids on the bottom of the valvebody, it stays in place, no need to unplug the individual solenoids.



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Clutch assembly should slide out easily

 

[Scooterchris]

Last you need to remove the clutch packs. Pay attention to the front and rear side of the clutch assembly so you do not get the clutch packs mixed up after removal, take pics or make some notes so you'll know which side is which. Remove the clutch packs using two prybars. You'll need to sit the gear on some sort of blocking (so that the bottom clutch pack is up off the work surface) across from each other so you're prying against the gear itself, if not you risk warping the gear flange.



The only bit of case grinding is in these 2 small spots where the yellow is.
You can use your bored case for guides on this



You will end up with this bare hub which needs to be shipped in for the reduction work, there are two o-rings on either side, remove the o-rings carefully and reinstall after you get the reduction back or install new ones if you prefer, they'll need a good coating of oil before installing the clutch packs.

 

[Scooterchris]

If you want the rear cover bored you'll need to send it in with the clutch hub, the cover does not have to be bored to install the reduction BUT..in the future if you need to remove the clutch assembly for clutch replacement you will have to completely disassemble the rear of the engine again because the larger reduction clutch gear will not fit through the stock size hole in the cover. I strongly suggest sending it in to be bored and save yourself some headache down the road. The bored cover will help with showing you where the case has to be cut for clearance as well.

 

[ghost]

I keep thinking I'm done with mods on the pioneer. Does it ever end?

 

[Delton]

I keep thinking I'm done with mods on the pioneer. Does it ever end?

Nope.

 

[ghost]

Nope.

Yeah. I'm a novice - learn at home mechanic. I just keep going deeper and deeper into the machine. Thanks to threads like this

 

[Delton]

Yeah. I'm a novice - learn at home mechanic. I just keep going deeper and deeper into the machine. Thanks to threads like this
View attachment 26896

It's a learning experience to say the least. I can do Jap bikes, small engines and some 4wheelers. This is a whole other animal. Love working on it though.

 

[amc019]

Hopefully someone else in AR will get one so I can watch them install it on theirs first so I'll know what NOT to do

 

[AKRider]

Hopefully someone else in AR will get one so I can watch them install it on theirs first so I'll know what NOT to do

I'm definitely a novice on things like this. Once I decide to do it, and I'm pretty sure I will, I am either going to enlist the help of a motor head friend or see if one of the local aftermarket shops will give me a decent deal on the teardown and re-install. Hell, it might be something they can work with the inventor on and do it for more local people up here.

 

[Delton]

I'm definitely a novice on things like this. Once I decide to do it, and I'm pretty sure I will, I am either going to enlist the help of a motor head friend or see if one of the local aftermarket shops will give me a decent deal on the teardown and re-install. Hell, it might be something they can work with the inventor on and do it for more local people up here.

I bet that will really take off in AK.