Honda Pioneer 700 Custom Turbo!

[ohanacreek]

Shut up and take my money!!!

Holy crap that's WAY faster than stock, mine won't do that going down a steep hill.

 

[Admin]

 

[spifyd]

That's exactly what it feels like. it feels like it used to going down a steep hill . This thing has so much crap on it last summer and couldn't even get to the rev limiter unless you're going downhill

 

[ohanacreek]

Hmm I haven't tried the rev limiter since I added the majority of my adds. I've been close but haven't made an attempt to actually hit it... I'll have to try this weekend when I get to ride.

 

[spifyd]

all rite a little update. for those of you that didn't go to wind rock. my Chinese turbo had the set screw the holds the baring journal in back out. this causes the spools to walk allover the place and the oil supply hole to block off. this caused off and on spool seizing and oil to fill the intake and exhaust. that happened on Friday night. I had it running Saturday about 2 hours after the big ride started. we tried to find everyone but no luck. it was still puffing a little all day and night from left over oil in the intercooler and the exhaust side needing new bearings. never the less a bunch of people got to try it out Saturday night.

the other thing I found was over 5 psi it would start pinging. this was not a big surprise all of my testing was done below freezing. I just simply turn the boost down to 5 psi.
so now that I am home I had a chance to take a few things apart. first off the turbo needs a rebuild kit. I found a new Chinese kit for my Chinese turbo that's on its way here from china. I just hope its not a slow boat. lol
so not sure if I had done any damage to the motor I decided take a little peak. I am happy to say all is well not even the slightest hint of detonation no scoring or anything. im working on a low compression piston and thinking off changing the cam . I wanted to retard the stock but its already retarded from the factory.
I an looking at the Rincon carb and efi cams. so far I cant decide which one but leaning towards the efi.
after some good conversations with some of the people there at wind rock I moved my egt sensor 2.5inchess closer to the valves to see if I get different readings there.
I am waiting on a new timing key I had 3.3 deg advance now im going with 2 deg retarded. when I get that I can put the whole back of the motor back together.

after running all weekend with a broken sway bar link and not missing it I removed the whole bar. note: I broke the link using it for a pry bay one very cold night trying to free up a tanged winch cable.
my goal is to get it so it can run 10 psi at 90 deg. with out melting the head pipe.
has any one tried to pressure wash there exhaust with heat wrap on it. the front wrap melted off and the rear seemed to have dissolved.

 

[spifyd]

so wisco said there only piston is a 10 to 1 .that's way to high its also .160 thick so we would have to remove 1/2 of the top to get down to the comp. we wanted so that wont work. I have the bike back together with 3 base gasket and 2 head gaskets. the base gaskets are about .010 each and the head gaskets are.040 each. all are steel. if my math is right that should be about 8.2 to 1. I have also been told if im not twisting the motor higher than stock the cast piston should be ok. I have also put a -2 deg. key in it to back of the timing a little.
it will be awhile before I get to try it out. that thing called work is calling and I have to travel for a week or so. its still cold here anyway were in a heat wave 36 deg right now. I will need a hot day and a long up hill to test it out.
I also did some testing on exhaust temp. with the pipe glowing nice and red I had 1850 4.5 inches from the valve. so I took one of my probes and bent it so I could get it right at the valve. I was with in 1/2 in from the valve. I ran the bike and had the pipe as hot as I could get it and to my surprise it was 1650 deg right at the valve. so I guess im going to just let the pipe glow and see what happens.

you guys know you can just yes me like frank does when im rambling on about this stuff. lol

 

[Hondasxs]

Yep..
lol

 

[Hondasxs]

Yep..
lol

J/K,
But you really do have me so lost, I don't even know what to say or ask you. But I really do enjoy watching your progress.
I have heard my buddy who builds race cars talking about having a custom piston made. But not sure how much $$$$ that would be.
I do wish you luck and hope you get it running top notch again.

 

[spifyd]

she will be back out in a few days. she can run just fine now just a little puff out the pipe from the turbo after descending hills. when the slow boat from china comes we will fix that. I will lock tight the set screw this time. lol
I have been playing with a c/r calculator right now with 3 base and 2 head gaskets I am at 8.1 to 1 cr. I just don't like two head gaskets its kinda gross and the two head gaskets screws up valve train geometry.
the head gasket is two .010 shims and a .020 shim in the middle I am thinking about getting the .020 shim out and trying that I think that was 8.7 c/r. still cant decide. I do know I have to get this project over with so I can start on something else. like a cv joint or manual shifting.

 

[dansvan]

Have you thought about using a boost referenced electronic timing retard? MSD? Would be a whole lot simpler than tearing into the motor playing with timing keyways. And if you got a batch of bad gas you could turn a dial for more retard or if you ran good gas you could turn it up more. Just a thought. They also make very effective knock sensor timing retard systems.

 

[spifyd]

I have looked a little. Every thing I found was quite expensive. What would be nice is a timing retarder and a knock sensor . we can all dream can't we.
I am trying to keep away from electronics as much as possible and come up with a good compromising set up.
I will need some warmer weather to see were I am right now. The completion is down to 8.1 right now. That should rely help.
I'm pretty shore I will be going back after the reduction gear so I can fine tune then if needed.

 

[dansvan]

Reduction gear? Source?

 

[spifyd]

The reduction gear on the Pioneer is a 2.5 gear ratio. the reduction gear on the rincon is a 2.0 so I'm just going to buy the reduction gear from the rincon off eBay. it will be exactly the opposite of what the rincon guys do with the big red gears when they want to go mudding.

 

[spifyd]

A little update.
its back together. I have been riding it around home. still cold here 40s. I had it at 12 psi for a run down the road the trains couldn't shift as fast as the rev-limiter worked hit rev limiter every gear. turned it down to 10. it feels better than it ever has .waiting for warm weather to see how it does. its at 8.2 cr and -2.5 degs timing. the new turbo bushing and rings are in turbo's tight and working good. old oil rings were shot from the set crew falling out. the oil rings were t shaped I didn't know if they were made that way or worn. they were worn. the new ones look like small piston rings.
I went from 30 wait oil to 40 motor oil to try to drop stall speed. stall went from 4500 to 4200 at 9 psi boost. also pulls harder under stall.
the real trails don't open till memorial day so that's when the real test will be but I'm pretty confident its all set for the summer. unless I change the reduction gearing. I'm waiting until I take a few rides thought the mountains to decide on that.

 

[spifyd]

I have been worried about the egt temps and the header pipe glowing red under light load. some very knowledgable guys at the meet told me not to worry about it. so ive been kind of ignoring it.
we are going up north this weekend with some extra guys and needed one more bike. so I dug out my old 2000 rancher, charged the battery and it fired right up. while I was running it I tried the 3000 rpm no load test and the head pipe glowed red. so I guess I have another reason to just ignore the red head pipes.

 

[allgm1]

Spifyd this is on my '15 stock pioneer, I can only imagine what your pipe would look like if your head pipe is glowing.

 

[spifyd]

I covered it up so I don't have to look at . lol the headed rap quiets the engine compartment drastically.

 

[joeymt33]

I covered it up so I don't have to look at . lol the headed rap quiets the engine compartment drastically.

That's good to know. Thanks for letting us know. Has anyone else noticed that the header wrap quiets the engine noise?

 

[Simpleman]

I didn't notice any noise reduction ,but rather way less heat transfer. I used JEGS brand hood liner kit material for its heat reflective tech but the bonus is it has a thick rubber backing that did decrease cab noise. I installed it under the seat trim area... motor compartment and surrounding areas to keep the seat cool. Also used the stuff to insulate the air box as well as intake tube in order to have the coolest densest air charge as possible.

 

[bagotaco]

That's good to know. Thanks for letting us know. Has anyone else noticed that the header wrap quiets the engine noise?

I bought 50' of header wrap of ebay $19. it definitely decreased the noise level. I haven't had a chance to get in the trail to see if it helped help reduction (I'm sure it will). I doubled up the layers at the front of the exhaust

 

[joeymt33]

I've done that on most of my trucks but have yet to do it on the pioneer. I also did that on the foreman 450 and it helped keep my left leg cooler.