DG Rider
Member: Triple Clutch Club
Lifetime Member
This is the pump recall for 2019 models:
hondasxs.com
There is a video in that link.
A while back there was talk that this might be extended to 2020 models (since dismissed by @HondaTech's rep ). In light of something that happened on my last ride (a random stall with no explanation) , I opted to order the replacement parts.
Part # 06160-HL3-305. I ordered this from a place called TRI county Honda for $63 bucks and it showed up in a few days. This replaces parts inside the existing module. The whole module is like $180 from someplace like RMATV, but I was concerned that one of the faulty pumps may have been sitting on a shelf somewhere. To me, this was the best way to ensure I got the updated pump.
Im surprised at what all came with this for $63:
1. Pump module lock ring.
2. Pump module seal.
3. Pump sub harness.
4. Fuel line QD clip and safety collar.
5. Fuel pump O ring.
6 & 7. "E" clips.
8. O ring spacer.
9. The pump itself.
The inns and outs of the module are covered in the link above, and I didn't take pics of getting to the module simply because I was in a hurry.
On the 700, the right side under seat panel must come off, which means removing the battery and ECM along with some wire clips. I had to remove the left side as well to allow this due to some "custom heat shield" retainers. Honestly, this makes up most of the time needed.
In light of the "lock ring tool", which I've only seen in blurry, out of focus photos, I used the traditional punch and hammer to remove the lock ring. To me, this was the hardest part with the tank in the machine. If you choose to use this method, remember that you are working on a PLASTIC gas tank, so watch where you chisel. It's tight in there on a 700 for hammer swings, so you 500 guys might find it easier to pull the tank or buy the lock ring tool.
I also put a little grease on the lock ring contact points to make it easier to rotate into place...and it will take a good whack with the hammer/chisel to get it in place.
Obviously, you will want this area as clean as possible, and pebbles WIll be stuck around the lock ring. Keep everything as clean as possible, and DON'T DRY RUN the new pump out of curiosity or whatever.
The other area of concern is the clips on the module body where the procedure uses "special tools". One of these is a regular old tab, but the other two are kind of a Trident shape, wherein the center tab must lift out, while the outer points squeeze in under the center tab, and the whole thing lifts up. I used zip ties under the center while squeezing the outers, and lifting just enough to keep them retained, while working the whole thing up. Be VERY CAREFUL with these.
All in all, on a stock 700 at least, you could probably do this in a 1-1.5 hours of straight work.
Product Update Campaign for Faulty Fuel Pump 2019 model years only!
Released today in reference to malfunctioning fuel pumps that can quit working on 2019 models Pioneer 500, 700, and 100p and Rancher, Foreman, Rubicon atvs. Honda is replacing the pump itself, not the entire assembly. No VIN range given at this time. @Hondasxs Feel free to drop into respective...
hondasxs.com
A while back there was talk that this might be extended to 2020 models (since dismissed by @HondaTech's rep ). In light of something that happened on my last ride (a random stall with no explanation) , I opted to order the replacement parts.
Part # 06160-HL3-305. I ordered this from a place called TRI county Honda for $63 bucks and it showed up in a few days. This replaces parts inside the existing module. The whole module is like $180 from someplace like RMATV, but I was concerned that one of the faulty pumps may have been sitting on a shelf somewhere. To me, this was the best way to ensure I got the updated pump.
Im surprised at what all came with this for $63:
1. Pump module lock ring.
2. Pump module seal.
3. Pump sub harness.
4. Fuel line QD clip and safety collar.
5. Fuel pump O ring.
6 & 7. "E" clips.
8. O ring spacer.
9. The pump itself.
The inns and outs of the module are covered in the link above, and I didn't take pics of getting to the module simply because I was in a hurry.
On the 700, the right side under seat panel must come off, which means removing the battery and ECM along with some wire clips. I had to remove the left side as well to allow this due to some "custom heat shield" retainers. Honestly, this makes up most of the time needed.
In light of the "lock ring tool", which I've only seen in blurry, out of focus photos, I used the traditional punch and hammer to remove the lock ring. To me, this was the hardest part with the tank in the machine. If you choose to use this method, remember that you are working on a PLASTIC gas tank, so watch where you chisel. It's tight in there on a 700 for hammer swings, so you 500 guys might find it easier to pull the tank or buy the lock ring tool.
I also put a little grease on the lock ring contact points to make it easier to rotate into place...and it will take a good whack with the hammer/chisel to get it in place.
Obviously, you will want this area as clean as possible, and pebbles WIll be stuck around the lock ring. Keep everything as clean as possible, and DON'T DRY RUN the new pump out of curiosity or whatever.
The other area of concern is the clips on the module body where the procedure uses "special tools". One of these is a regular old tab, but the other two are kind of a Trident shape, wherein the center tab must lift out, while the outer points squeeze in under the center tab, and the whole thing lifts up. I used zip ties under the center while squeezing the outers, and lifting just enough to keep them retained, while working the whole thing up. Be VERY CAREFUL with these.
All in all, on a stock 700 at least, you could probably do this in a 1-1.5 hours of straight work.
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