P1000 looking for the key-on switch harness.

bumperm

bumperm

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Don't know, maybe the store here? I just ran a wire from the aux fuse (#5), which is key-on positive, to one side of a Bosch relay coil, the other side of the coil to ground. This relay can then be used to get a switched ground for both a dual voltage display (so they are key-on) and to switch ground to a larger relay (other side of coil +) to power the key-on fuse block.
 
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sheba4

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Don't know, maybe the store here? I just ran a wire from the aux fuse (#5), which is key-on positive, to one side of a Bosch relay coil, the other side of the coil to ground. This relay can then be used to get a switched ground for both a dual voltage display (so they are key-on) and to switch ground to a larger relay (other side of coil +) to power the key-on fuse block.
i think most people do this. im not too good at wiring but will try this. did you buy the bosch real coil? do you have a pic i can look at?
thanks,
Gary
 
Wellzy

Wellzy

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I got one of these for my own machine and another Pioneer I did some work on. The harness is perfect, plug it in and key on power to anything you need. I connected mine to the orange LED running lights in my front grill seen in my profile pic.

The easiest way to connect it is to use the hole in the dash where the "gonna die" sticker is if you have modified that to a switch plate. You can reach down to unplug the 12v plug harness and put this in. I did not know this at the time and did plan B. I reached in with my right hand from inside the front passenger wheel well was able to disconnect the harness and get this snapped in. Run the wires straight up to the hood area and use for what you would like.

I still have the Aux fuse to use as stated above, If I needed to add something, but that Aux fuse runs the 12v plug and I think I read here it is also the reverse lights fuse if you tap into the rear wires for the back up alarm.

Good luck!
 
Scoop

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StewB

StewB

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The harness works.
I went with a Bosch automotive relay and a Positap on the ACC fuse (black/white wire, I believe), as above.
If you have more toys coming, I do think you should research this site for the fuse block recommendations. They will make your life much easier. You can take away the jumble of inline fuses and have everything on one accessory block. Some of the fuse blocks have indicator lights that will tell you which fuse is out.

Now get out there and spend some money! :cool:
 
bumperm

bumperm

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Now get out there and spend some money! :cool:

Never before, in the history of mankind, has so much money been thrown at improvements to a brand new vehicle, as has been spent on the Honda side by side. It should come with a warning label . . . oh wait, it comes with a ton of 'em don't it? Getting rid of them labels is one of the cheaper improvements.
 
Bama-Daniel

Bama-Daniel

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Club store key on harness. Hooks up to back of factory accessory plug thing. I found a YouTube video that showed what to do also. Between YouTube and this site I know just enough to be dangerous.
 
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Bama-Daniel

Bama-Daniel

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Never before, in the history of mankind, has so much money been thrown at improvements to a brand new vehicle, as has been spent on the Honda side by side. It should come with a warning label . . . oh wait, it comes with a ton of 'em don't it? Getting rid of them labels is one of the cheaper improvements.
To funny and painfully so true. 😂
 
S

sheba4

Active Member
Jan 5, 2018
161
197
43
mn.
Ownership

  1. 500

  2. 1000-5

  3. Big Red

I got one of these for my own machine and another Pioneer I did some work on. The harness is perfect, plug it in and key on power to anything you need. I connected mine to the orange LED running lights in my front grill seen in my profile pic.

The easiest way to connect it is to use the hole in the dash where the "gonna die" sticker is if you have modified that to a switch plate. You can reach down to unplug the 12v plug harness and put this in. I did not know this at the time and did plan B. I reached in with my right hand from inside the front passenger wheel well was able to disconnect the harness and get this snapped in. Run the wires straight up to the hood area and use for what you would like.

I still have the Aux fuse to use as stated above, If I needed to add something, but that Aux fuse runs the 12v plug and I think I read here it is also the reverse lights fuse if you tap into the rear wires for the back up alarm.

Good luck!
ok thanks for that info. yes i have not installed my switch plate yet. going to install the boss radio, and for switches i will use, one for pod lights on the side and back, whip lights, maybe winch if i get one, rock lights, bilge blower if i get one... so if i get that harness? it is only good for one item? im putting in a second battery with a 12 slot fuse box so i can just go with that also..

thanks,
Gary
 
S

sheba4

Active Member
Jan 5, 2018
161
197
43
mn.
Ownership

  1. 500

  2. 1000-5

  3. Big Red
The harness works.
I went with a Bosch automotive relay and a Positap on the ACC fuse (black/white wire, I believe), as above.
If you have more toys coming, I do think you should research this site for the fuse block recommendations. They will make your life much easier. You can take away the jumble of inline fuses and have everything on one accessory block. Some of the fuse blocks have indicator lights that will tell you which fuse is out.

Now get out there and spend some money! :cool:

20211229 2106261
 
bumperm

bumperm

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May 7, 2021
1,908
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Gardnerville, NV
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
ok thanks for that info. yes i have not installed my switch plate yet. going to install the boss radio, and for switches i will use, one for pod lights on the side and back, whip lights, maybe winch if i get one, rock lights, bilge blower if i get one... so if i get that harness? it is only good for one item? im putting in a second battery with a 12 slot fuse box so i can just go with that also..

thanks,
Gary

Most will use the "key on" voltage to power a larger relay (say 50 to 75 amps or so, Stinger or other brand) and that relay will then provide key-switched power, often from the Aux battery, to a fuse block - from there, individual fuses will provide power to one or more smaller accessories. Higher current accessories, such as big light bars that draw more than 10 amps, will generally get their power from the fuse block, but rather than having that higher current going through a panel switch, the power will go instead go through a smaller Bosch style relay, with the relay coil current controlled by the panel switch.

If that sounds complicated, it's really not!

BTW, if I were doing the wiring again, I'd use two or three 6 station fuse blocks instead of a 12 way. The 6's are easier to find places for. One or two of them for key switched power, and one for always on power (for stuff like interior light, phone charger, pod or real lights you want to use for work or convenience lighting, radio power for when parked etc.
 
Scoop

Scoop

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so if i get that harness? it is only good for one item? im putting in a second battery with a 12 slot fuse box so i can just go with that also..

thanks,
Gary
The key-on harness is typically used to signal other things to "turn on", not (necessarily) to directly power something like a light.

Common example: You install a relay that connects a large gauge (lower number, thicker cable) from your battery to a fuse block (that has many places, often 6 or 12, to connect to things that need power, such as lights, radios, etc.). That relay doesn't always send power to the fuse block ... it needs to be told when to turn on (send power to the fuse block) and when to turn off (stop sending power to the fuse block). Because the key-on harness only has 12v power when you turn the key on, you use THAT to turn that relay on/off, which is what energizes/deenergizes the fuse block. Essentially, your key-on power harness acts as a switch to turn ALL the power on/off for all the accessories that are connected to the fuse block.
 
Wellzy

Wellzy

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Dec 9, 2020
269
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SW Wisconsin
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  1. 1000-5
With my dual battery set up, I skipped the Stinger or comparable relay because I guess my set up was going to be simpler.

My overhead Swamp Donkey stereo - wired the factory ring terminals directly to my second battery, it was already fused.
Reverse light - comes on with the reverse, so that uses Honda wire harness / fuse.
Front LED light bar - from the store, it connects to Honda wire harness / fuse, turns on with bright headlights.
LED grill accent lights - These are directly connected to the key on harness in this thread, they are on with key.
Horn - The power for the horn tied in with the above orange lights, getting power from the key on harness, horn grounds to frame.
White LED under front fender lights - These are the only accessory I have using my add on fuse block, which is always hot. So, since my add on fuse block is always hot, any light or item I feed from that will have to use a switch in my dash panel.

The purpose of those, under fender lights is almost the same as if you put two rock lights on the front only. This is for when the group on a night ride pulls to the side of the road to grab a Faygo or Hawaiian Punch, my stereo is hot and always using the second battery. Then I turn on the under fender lights for that light downward glow to be able to see where things are without having headlights overly shining the area. My side of the road or other parked activities never need my key on which eliminates the fuel pump, dash display etc...

The sky is the limit for how you want your machine to work for the way you use it, good luck!
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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@Wellzy - You're likely eventually going to want to add a relay before that fuse block if you add more accessories. You don't want a bunch of always hot switches in your dash panel. The key-on harness really isn't going to power many accessories, either, having a single 15A fuse that's shared with your 12v dash power outlet. Having everything go to your fuse block eliminates all the in-line fuses, too. You can add a switch that allows you to energize the fuse block without having to have the key on (toggles between always on from your 2nd battery or key-on). Finally, all it takes is forgetting to turn off one switch and your battery (or both batteries, if you don't have an isolator) are dead. But, hey, to each thier own.
 
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MXSparky

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May 26, 2020
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Mid MO
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If your looking for key on with engine not running to power you accessories, that’s not a good idea. If the key is on the fuel pump is running and will kill your main battery if the engines not running. In that case you need a aux switch to turn accessories on when the engines not running.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

Well-Known Member
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Sep 7, 2021
5,192
20,515
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Michigan
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  1. Other Brand

  2. 1000-5

  3. Talon R LV
If your looking for key on with engine not running to power you accessories, that’s not a good idea. If the key is on the fuel pump is running and will kill your main battery if the engines not running. In that case you need a aux switch to turn accessories on when the engines not running.

That's why I mentioned this:

 
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Danno357

Member
Jan 11, 2021
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Fort Atkinson Wi
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  1. 700-2
The key on harness in the store here works awesome. I used it to hook up my front led lights. I used the back up beeper hook up for my rear led’s. They only turn on in reverse, but I don’t look backwards at night other than in my mirrors! 😀

0DAF01B5 70F0 41CF B332 E245D759DB92 3E51D7DF 4A22 46E9 B170 DDE4A0FF6B96
 
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