P1000 Main battery drain since installing tru isolator

[Hondasxs]

hi - question - even if the grounds from accessories were wired to the main battery ground, is that still an issue - ground "should be" ground?

If I did this I would keep it all on second battery ground as well but technically does it matter?

Great question.
I almost posted about the topic and the statement saying that "a ground is a ground" this morning but did not.
---------------
Disclamer, I'm no expert on this; I am self-taught for the most part.
But follow along with me here in my thinking, and then you can decide.

First.. I want to tell you that what you have been taught about power flow is WRONG...
Power does not flow from positive to negative....
It actually flows from the negative to the positive. (Google it).
Yet... another study says both concepts are wrong, and there is no "flow" at all. (see the Veritasium video)
lol.. So take that for what you will.

Now, in regards to the Pioneer and wiring.
The battery is your power bank (source)
Power must return to its source to complete the circuit.
If power leaves source 2, for a truly isolated circuit, it must return to source 2 without interference from other sources.

So, let me ask you... *Using common flow logic of (+) --> (-)
Why would you force the negative current to travel through source 1 (or the frame) in order to complete the circuit and return to source 2?

Let's take a winch wiring example with the positive on the second battery and the negative using the 2018 factory wire ground.
Power leaves source 2 and does its thing.
Current must return to source 2 in some manner, some how.
For this to happen it must pass through the engine, frame, primary battery, bus bar, and finally makes it way to Source 2.
Now, I'm not smart enough to tell you what effects this has on a system but I know for a fact it does.

So, wouldn't a ground straight to the original source be the proper option?
And if it is "proper" for the winch, why is it not "proper" for your other accessories?

Now that you have this information. You can inspect your wiring and eisley pick out what is improper.

Not to discount what you have. It works, SURE. But is it proper?
The amount of current usage will dictate how long your setup lasts.

I choose a 100% isolated secondary circuit (secondary battery system).
Everything that is pulled from source 2, returns to source 2.
I also do not run a combined bus between Source 1 & 2.
I do have a negative bus, but it flows directly to source 2.

I hope that helps explain the importance of choosing a proper ground I am trying to make.
Thanks.

-------------------
Google it - does battery power travel positive to negative or positive - Google Search
Veritasium - The Big Misconception About Electricity

 

[Admin]

 

[DRZRon1]

Great question.
I almost posted about the topic and the statement saying that "a ground is a ground" this morning but did not.
---------------
Disclamer, I'm no expert on this; I am self-taught for the most part.
But follow along with me here in my thinking, and then you can decide.

First.. I want to tell you that what you have been taught about power flow is WRONG...
Power does not flow from positive to negative....
It actually flows from the negative to the positive. (Google it).
Yet... another study says both concepts are wrong, and there is no "flow" at all. (see the Veritasium video)
lol.. So take that for what you will.

Now, in regards to the Pioneer and wiring.
The battery is your power bank (source)
Power must return to its source to complete the circuit.
If power leaves source 2, for a truly isolated circuit, it must return to source 2 without interference from other sources.

So, let me ask you... *Using common flow logic of (+) --> (-)
Why would you force the negative current to travel through source 1 (or the frame) in order to complete the circuit and return to source 2?

Let's take a winch wiring example with the positive on the second battery and the negative using the 2018 factory wire ground.
Power leaves source 2 and does its thing.
Current must return to source 2 in some manner, some how.
For this to happen it must pass through the engine, frame, primary battery, bus bar, and finally makes it way to Source 2.
Now, I'm not smart enough to tell you what effects this has on a system but I know for a fact it does.

So, wouldn't a ground straight to the original source be the proper option?
And if it is "proper" for the winch, why is it not "proper" for your other accessories?

Now that you have this information. You can inspect your wiring and eisley pick out what is improper.

Not to discount what you have. It works, SURE. But is it proper?
The amount of current usage will dictate how long your setup lasts.

I choose a 100% isolated secondary circuit (secondary battery system).
Everything that is pulled from source 2, returns to source 2.
I also do not run a combined bus between Source 1 & 2.
I do have a negative bus, but it flows directly to source 2.

I hope that helps explain the importance of choosing a proper ground I am trying to make.
Thanks.

-------------------
Google it - does battery power travel positive to negative or positive - Google Search
Veritasium - The Big Misconception About Electricity

thanks - interesting ........

 

[dweber23tr]

@Hondasxs , glad you explained it. Reminded me to go look and sure enough the auxiliary fuse panel ground was connected to the primary battery from before I had the 2nd battery. Got it moved today to the auxiliary battery.

 

[Melvin35]

so it died again, im wondering if there’s some sort of short somewhere

 

[DRZRon1]

so it died again, im wondering if there’s some sort of short somewhere

-have main battery tested -Cmon man

-if main is good - disconnect everything added - What has been added - we still don’t know

-do u have. Wireless winch?

if you have a descent meter - move the leads to the amp connections on the meter and DC Milliamps and connect from negative to frame -there will be a very slight draw - but that will tell u You f u have a short


But step 1 first

 

[Melvin35]

-have main battery tested -Cmon man

-if main is good - disconnect everything added - What has been added - we still don’t know

-do u have. Wireless winch?

if you have a descent meter - move the leads to the amp connections on the meter and DC Milliamps and connect from negative to frame -there will be a very slight draw - but that will tell u You f u have a short


But step 1 first

The battery has been tested twice, its fine.

And what has been added to what? the only thing connected to the main battery is the main cables and the isolator.

yes I have a wireless winch, wired to my second battery.

 

[Melvin35]

Disregard this paragraph, corrected in a follow-on post:

Do you have a multimeter that will measure current? If so, you can disconnect the positive lead from the main battery, then connect the meter between the Tru and the lead from the battery. This will allow you to see if there's any parasitic current draw going through the Tru. Note that this test should be done after the vehicle has been sitting idle for a bit and/or the main battery voltage is under 13 volts to be sure the Tru isn't connecting the two batteries.

Using the same current testing method can easily find and trace any other parasitic loads. Simply pull the fuse to the circuit in question and connect the meter's leads across the fuse socket terminals. Of course, there will be some expected current going to "keep alive" things like radio/stereo memory, on-board "computer" stuff and the like.

OK so I finally got some time to actually sit and check things. I got battery tested again today. It is fine. I unhooked the tru terminal from main battery positive and checked to see if there is a drain and this is the result I got. Is this an isolator issue?

 

[bumperm]

OK so I finally got some time to actually sit and check things. I got battery tested again today. It is fine. I unhooked the tru terminal from main battery positive and checked to see if there is a drain and this is the result I got. Is this an isolator issue?

If that's 4.71 milliamps, for a parasitic current draw, that's not bad at all and would take near forever to drop the battery voltage. It should be fairly easy to see where that current is going. Did you add a fuse block and does that have LED lights to indicate a fuse is blown or missing? If so, that adds a fair amount (in the ma range still) of current draw. You might pull fuses one-at-a-time to see which circuit is drawing the current. Though again, a few mills of current isn't going to put your battery in the dirt.

 

[Melvin35]

If that's 4.71 milliamps, for a parasitic current draw, that's not bad at all and would take near forever to drop the battery voltage. It should be fairly easy to see where that current is going. Did you add a fuse block and does that have LED lights to indicate a fuse is blown or missing? If so, that adds a fair amount (in the ma range still) of current draw. You might pull fuses one-at-a-time to see which circuit is drawing the current. Though again, a few mills of current isn't going to put your battery in the dirt.

That’s what I don’t understand. Like I unhooked everything and just set up the main battery with nothing else. Ran fine all day zero issues.

I could run it the entire day, and that 4.71 draw would kill the battery. And that’s the only drain I’m finding

 

[Melvin35]

That’s what I don’t understand. Like I unhooked everything and just set up the main battery with nothing else. Ran fine all day zero issues.

I could run it the entire day, and that 4.71 draw would kill the battery. And that’s the only drain I’m findin

Edit: yes I have a fuse block but no LEDs in it

 

[bumperm]

Okay, you might charge the battery then disconnect a terminal. Wait a day and check charge again to see if the problem is the battery.

 

[Melvin35]

So update: I saw a thread on here after hours of digging and digging through the internet, that I can wire the isolator ground to be key on activated. Last night after spending hours trying to find what accessory was draining, which I found nothing.

So I threw a key on ground relay to the isolator and it has been sitting all night, I'm going to give it more time to see if there's any changes.