P1000 Momentary switch and dual volt meter question.

[Proff49]

Going to be installing a second battery with the True isolator kit on a P1000-3. I have a three position momentary switch for the volt meter so I can check the voltage of each battery independently (pushing the switch up will check battery 1, pushing the switch down will check battery 2, both off in the center). Question is, will the relay in the kit work with this configuration or will I need another/ different relay to get bot sides of the volt meter too work?

 

[Admin]

 

[Mark in Northern Iowa]

Best answer would be the search bar above, MANY dual voltmeter ideas.
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The way it sounds, you have the dual voltmeter that comes with the kit, all you need is a ground.
We all seem to do it differently, here is how I did mine.
I used a relay and made a switched/key on ground.
With key on or engine running, both voltmeters are on.
With key off when I push the momentary push button, both voltmeters are on.
.

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engine running

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key off

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key off, momentary push switch

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Have a good day

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Never seen one wired that way but everyone is dif. The relay provided with the kit provides a ground when powered. How are you intending to wire it. With key on power if so then your set up should work but only with key on. I don’t know if that’s what you want. If you want to see your readings without key on the relay would need to be hooked up continuously. That means it would be on all the time. It’s just providing a ground but it’s still on. I don’t know if I’d want that. I have my relay powered through a second fuse box so whenever my 2nd fuse box is hot both readings display.

 

[Scoop]

Question is, will the relay in the kit work with this configuration or will I need another/ different relay to get bot sides of the volt meter too work?

The typical dual voltmeter relay is wired to provide GROUND when energized, so you only need one relay for the ground side.

You can add a manual normally off momentary switch like in @Mark in Northern Iowa's pic if you want to check them without turning the key on.

In fact, mine is wired exactly like his pic, sans the manual pushbutton switch, but I ordered and just received a switch a few days ago. Will be adding soon.

 

[Proff49]

Ok, im back. Been busy the last couple days.

My switch has 6 posts. 3 on one side will not be used. I was thinking of putting the switch between volt meter and fuse blocks on the blue and green wires with a separate ground. I would be getting power for the blue and green wires from a fuse box off each battery instead of the isolator.

For the record, I have read many threads from different sources and haven't found anyone using an on-off-on momentary switch.

 

[Scoop]

For the record, I have read many threads from different sources and haven't found anyone using an on-off-on momentary switch.

You certainly can wire your voltmeters any way you like, @Proff49.

I guess I don't see a real benefit for using an on/off/on switch for a dual voltmeter. You will have to operate the switch three times to see what each battery is doing and turn if off (up for one, down for the other, then return to middle for off) vs. pressing and releasing a single momentary button switch to see both. I also want to see that both batteries are charging while running without having to press anything. That's why the combination of single button normally open switch (key off) and the relay (key on) is the best combo, IMHO.

 

[DRZRon1]

Ok, im back. Been busy the last couple days.

My switch has 6 posts. 3 on one side will not be used. I was thinking of putting the switch between volt meter and fuse blocks on the blue and green wires with a separate ground. I would be getting power for the blue and green wires from a fuse box off each battery instead of the isolator.

For the record, I have read many threads from different sources and haven't found anyone using an on-off-on momentary switch.

View attachment 440881 View attachment 440882

it has become an engineering project

 

[CID]

Ok, im back. Been busy the last couple days.

My switch has 6 posts. 3 on one side will not be used. I was thinking of putting the switch between volt meter and fuse blocks on the blue and green wires with a separate ground. I would be getting power for the blue and green wires from a fuse box off each battery instead of the isolator.

For the record, I have read many threads from different sources and haven't found anyone using an on-off-on momentary switch.

View attachment 440881 View attachment 440882

Switching both the blue and green wires will add more complexity and wiring connections, while just splicing into the ground side of the voltmeter will minimize complexity and wiring. You can use the spare, green ground wire on the pre-wired True relay plug (if you're using the True isolator). The blue and green wires should go directly to each side of the isolator.

I can't find the True isolator in the club store, is it still available here? @Hondasxs ?

You can see the two green wires here (almost). Once goes to the VM the other is the spare you can wire to your momentary switch.

 

[Hondasxs]

I can't find the True isolator in the club store, is it still available here? @Hondasxs ?

Search: 7 results found for "Trueam"

Search: 7 results found for "Trueam" - The Honda SxS Club!

store.hondasxs.com

 

[Hondasxs]

Going to be installing a second battery with the True isolator kit on a P1000-3. I have a three position momentary switch for the volt meter so I can check the voltage of each battery independently (pushing the switch up will check battery 1, pushing the switch down will check battery 2, both off in the center). Question is, will the relay in the kit work with this configuration or will I need another/ different relay to get bot sides of the volt meter too work?

Just read this... Totally possible. I did this on my older Pioneer. Just a single-volt meter that read #1 and #2, depending on my selection.

Do you think you can remember to turn it off? Or do you want it only to work key-on?

 

[CID]

Search: 7 results found for "Trueam"

Search: 7 results found for "Trueam" - The Honda SxS Club!

store.hondasxs.com

Curious - when I click on Parts and Acc - Isolator, all that shows up is this -

 

[Hondasxs]

Curious - when I click on Parts and Acc - Isolator, all that shows up is this -
View attachment 440910

Thanks. I'll check it.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Proff49]

It will definitely increase the number of connections. I had planned on putting the blue and green wires on fuse boxes off of each battery. Is there a reason the isolator is better?

One thing I had not thought about was being able to make sure the batteries were charging while the machine was running. I was only thinking about being able to check the voltage of independently with the machine off. Maybe Mark's way would be better.

 

[DRZRon1]

It will definitely increase the number of connections. I had planned on putting the blue and green wires on fuse boxes off of each battery. Is there a reason the isolator is better?

One thing I had not thought about was being able to make sure the batteries were charging while the machine was running. I was only thinking about being able to check the voltage of independently with the machine off. Maybe Mark's way would be better.

its really not that important what the voltage is when the machine is off - having a volt meter while the machine is running is a nice to have just to keep an eye on things.....and ez to do. I want to know what happens when I turn the key on but thats just me

how many times does someone check their car\truck when its off if the battery\batteries are charged? I have a few machines on trickle chargers - ill look at the lites every now and then when I walk by - if all are green - nothing else to check. ive had a trickle charger that was red one day and yep the battery died.

 

[CID]

It will definitely increase the number of connections. I had planned on putting the blue and green wires on fuse boxes off of each battery. Is there a reason the isolator is better?

One thing I had not thought about was being able to make sure the batteries were charging while the machine was running. I was only thinking about being able to check the voltage of independently with the machine off. Maybe Mark's way would be better.

No reason other than simplicity. I followed the Trueam wiring diagrams I had seen and ran the two VM leads directly to the isolator (unfused ). Those two wires are small enough to act as their own fuse ... I hope -

Like DRZRon, I want to know what's happening when the engine is running, it keeps me up to date on the battery's condition. If I'm suddenly only seeing 12.x volts, I know that I've lost charging, somehow and need to turn my headlights off and head for the trailer.

fwiw: since my headlights are controlled by the ignition switch, I never turn them off; incoming can see me sooner and it's easier for the guy I'm following to keep track of me. And - our signal is - if the trailing machine turns his lights off, he wants to stop (no radios).

 

[bumperm]

Checking battery voltage "no-load" or key-off, provides more accurate info about the battery's health and charge state than comparing their voltages with one under load and the other not.

With key-on but not running, you are comparing batteries with unequal loading. With engine running, increasing battery voltage is a good indication the alternator and charging system are working properly.

BTW, an easy place to get a ground for the momentary button ,is from the LED negative terminal on dang near every rocker switch on the panel (at least the back lit ones).

 

[Proff49]

Just an update. I ended up installing the volt meter like Mark suggested to save time because I was also installing a second battery, winch, and isolator. I'm going to revisit this later just so I can figure out how to do it. I still have a Cole Hersee relay, fuse box, and key on/off/auxiliary switch to install first.