P1000 Need help with second battery setup

[Ridinfool]

Ok, I'm adding some stuff to the buggy, 8" under seat fan and 4 -4" cube lights (2 on back and 2 on front) I've got a fuse block with ground and a 6 panel switch to turn them on/off was not going to do a second battery but then decided it would be better if I did. I will be wiring it so the switch panel will only work when key is on. My question is do I really need a second battery? The only other power accessory I have is my winch. Not really planning on adding anything else other than what's listed above. This is the battery I'm using and the solenoid what isolater kit do I need and is that all I need to make this happen? Wife wants to know where does it end?!?!?
Of course I gave the only logical answer... it doesn't. Lil help please, with the battery thing not the wife😁

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondoman]

Ok, I'm adding some stuff to the buggy, 8" under seat fan and 4 -4" cube lights (2 on back and 2 on front) I've got a fuse block with ground and a 6 panel switch to turn them on/off was not going to do a second battery but then decided it would be better if I did. I will be wiring it so the switch panel will only work when key is on. My question is do I really need a second battery? The only other power accessory I have is my winch. Not really planning on adding anything else other than what's listed above. This is the battery I'm using and the solenoid what isolater kit do I need and is that all I need to make this happen? Wife wants to know where does it end?!?!?
Of course I gave the only logical answer... it doesn't. Lil help please, with the battery thing not the wife😁View attachment 200780View attachment 200781

I would add a second battery for the winch even if you didnt add anything else. Winches draw ALOT of power.

I have everything aftermarket on my second battery. My oem battery functions just like it would in a non modified rig. In addition, I keep a set of short jumper cables in case my oem battery takes a crap. I can jump myself off.

I think most use the True isolator. They are sold in the club store, fyi.

 

[Ridinfool]

I would add a second battery for the winch even if you didnt add anything else. Winches draw ALOT of power.

I have everything aftermarket on my second battery. My oem battery functions just like it would in a non modified rig. In addition, I keep a set of short jumper cables in case my oem battery takes a crap. I can jump myself off.

I think most use the True isolator. They are sold in the club store, fyi.

Thanks for the input, I was going to order the isolator from the store just want to get the right one.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

TRUE UTV-SBI-15 Isolator
Or the full blown True kit

TrueAm UTV LITHIUM Dual Battery Connect & Monitor Kit Isolator

FOR USE WITH LITHIUM BATTERIES ONLY The UTV-SBI-LCM includes: 1- True UTV-SBI-19L Isolator with silicon insulators and 3M Dual Lock fastner 1- 36mm blue led volt meter with dual display (requires 1- 29mm mounting hole), inludes 8′ x 18ga duplex wire with connectors 1 ea- True 12″ sealed 6ga Red...

store.hondasxs.com

 

[Ridinfool]

TRUE UTV-SBI-15 Isolator
Or the full blown True kit

I will be doing the full blown kit.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

I might have the 18 model

TrueAm UTV-SBI-18CM UTV Dual Battery Isolator Kit

The UTV-SBI-CM kit includes: 1-UTV-SBI-18 with insulators and 3M Dual Lock™ 1-12 inch #6 black cable with 6mm (1/4″) lugs 1-12 inch #6 red (primary) cable with 6mm (1/4″) lugs 1-18 inch #6 red (secondary) cable with 6mm (1/4″) lugs NOW featuring a NEW 36mm Single Meter Dual Display blue LED volt...

store.hondasxs.com

 

[Ridinfool]

I might have the 18 model

TrueAm UTV-SBI-18CM UTV Dual Battery Isolator Kit

The UTV-SBI-CM kit includes: 1-UTV-SBI-18 with insulators and 3M Dual Lock™ 1-12 inch #6 black cable with 6mm (1/4″) lugs 1-12 inch #6 red (primary) cable with 6mm (1/4″) lugs 1-18 inch #6 red (secondary) cable with 6mm (1/4″) lugs NOW featuring a NEW 36mm Single Meter Dual Display blue LED volt...

store.hondasxs.com

I just ordered that from hondasxs, thanks👍

 

[CID]

Sorry I don't remember where I found these -

 

[Hondasxs]

We only have the 18 and 19L versions.
In stock and shipping.

Thanks for posting the links.

 

[Ugly]

Sorry I don't remember where I found these -

View attachment 200783

View attachment 200784

Great information. Thanks for the post.

 

[Hondasxs]

Great information. Thanks for the post.

Also, take into consideration how you wire up your system. If you use a stinger to provide power from a second battery, then you can skip installing the relay part of the isolator kit. Just hook 1 line to the feed AFTER the stinger and the other line to a key-on source.

 

[gearguywb]

Just ordered the mighty max for a second battery and will be ordering the complete kit from here. Also picked up a Blue Sea fuse block. Anyone have a diagram (or even a pic or two) of how they wired all of that together.

My plan is to leave the OEM battery just for running the rig, winch, street legal ket, acc. power etc all to the fuse block, powered from the second battery

 

[JoeyL]

I finished up the diagram of my system that i started a while ago.
Im sure this has been done before, and the diagram is not 100% complete, but here it is.
I have a second battery w a True Isolator (complete kit w dual volt meter) and I am also using a stinger 200A relay to switch my power feed to the fuse block. I added a DPDT 3 position (ON/OFF/ON) switch (OTRATTW) to switch between accessory power always on and accessory power on with the key and no accessory power. This switch feeds an "Accessory Bus" that feeds all the small stuff on the dash and also turns on the stinger to provide power to the fuse block.

So far I really like the ability to switch the accessory power. If I am in and out of the buggy a lot i can switch to always on and not interrupt the stereo every time i stop and start. Most other times i just leave it in keyed power mode.

If you dont want the switch the diagram is still basically valid, just eliminate the always on power wire and feed everything with the key on power.
the harness at the club store is a good way to get key on power.
KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer

A couple of extra notes:
The Axon winch has an internal relay, so your winch wiring will be a little different.
I should put a fuse in the main that feeds the fuse block, I just haven't done it yet.
I used 6AWG wire for all of the main wiring, it is shown thicker in the diagram.

Good Luck!

 

[JenElio]

I finished up the diagram of my system that i started a while ago.
Im sure this has been done before, and the diagram is not 100% complete, but here it is.
I have a second battery w a True Isolator (complete kit w dual volt meter) and I am also using a stinger 200A relay to switch my power feed to the fuse block. I added a DPDT 3 position (ON/OFF/ON) switch (OTRATTW) to switch between accessory power always on and accessory power on with the key and no accessory power. This switch feeds an "Accessory Bus" that feeds all the small stuff on the dash and also turns on the stinger to provide power to the fuse block.

So far I really like the ability to switch the accessory power. If I am in and out of the buggy a lot i can switch to always on and not interrupt the stereo every time i stop and start. Most other times i just leave it in keyed power mode.

If you dont want the switch the diagram is still basically valid, just eliminate the always on power wire and feed everything with the key on power.
the harness at the club store is a good way to get key on power.
KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer

A couple of extra notes:
The Axon winch has an internal relay, so your winch wiring will be a little different.
I should put a fuse in the main that feeds the fuse block, I just haven't done it yet.
I used 6AWG wire for all of the main wiring, it is shown thicker in the diagram.

Good Luck!

View attachment 201206

Thats pretty dang nice! I've been studying up on wiring so can some what do mine soon. Do you have individual relays for the accessories?

 

[Ridinfool]

I finished up the diagram of my system that i started a while ago.
Im sure this has been done before, and the diagram is not 100% complete, but here it is.
I have a second battery w a True Isolator (complete kit w dual volt meter) and I am also using a stinger 200A relay to switch my power feed to the fuse block. I added a DPDT 3 position (ON/OFF/ON) switch (OTRATTW) to switch between accessory power always on and accessory power on with the key and no accessory power. This switch feeds an "Accessory Bus" that feeds all the small stuff on the dash and also turns on the stinger to provide power to the fuse block.

So far I really like the ability to switch the accessory power. If I am in and out of the buggy a lot i can switch to always on and not interrupt the stereo every time i stop and start. Most other times i just leave it in keyed power mode.

If you dont want the switch the diagram is still basically valid, just eliminate the always on power wire and feed everything with the key on power.
the harness at the club store is a good way to get key on power.
KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer

A couple of extra notes:
The Axon winch has an internal relay, so your winch wiring will be a little different.
I should put a fuse in the main that feeds the fuse block, I just haven't done it yet.
I used 6AWG wire for all of the main wiring, it is shown thicker in the diagram.

Good Luck!

View attachment 201206

AAAAAAAWWWWWEEEEESSSSOOOOMMMMEEE!!!!🤩🤩

 

[JoeyL]

Thats pretty dang nice! I've been studying up on wiring so can some what do mine soon. Do you have individual relays for the accessories?

I don’t have any that require that much amperage yet.


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