P1000 New to this

[JLH]

What size/brand of battery does most folks use for a dual set up under the hood? My true isolator should deliver next week. I plan on adding several lights and a radio, plus fans under the seat.

 

[Admin]

 

[JTW]

What size/brand of battery does most folks use for a dual set up under the hood? My true isolator should deliver next week. I plan on adding several lights and a radio, plus fans under the seat.

Amazon.com: Odyssey PC925L Automotive Light Truck Battery: Automotive

 

[LapZ]

What size/brand of battery does most folks use for a dual set up under the hood? My true isolator should deliver next week. I plan on adding several lights and a radio, plus fans under the seat.

I'm also ordering a True isolator, where do u plan on putting second battery, under driver seat or under hood?

 

[JTW]

I'm also ordering a True isolator, where do u plan on putting second battery, under driver seat or under hood?

He was asking for underhood..

 

[JLH]

I'm planning on putting it under the hood in the recess. I want to get a waterproof bag and carry stuff under the seat.

 

[JLH]

Amazon.com: Odyssey PC925L Automotive Light Truck Battery: Automotive

Thank for the response, I was wondering what size would fix there. Any tips on securing it in the hole?

 

[JTW]

Thank for the response, I was wondering what size would fix there. Any tips on securing it in the hole?

I used a tie down strap and routered a hole on the forward side of the battery hole.. mine runs over the bar behind the battery (that's where the plastic ends and the rubber meets) and under the battery hole then over the front bar where the strap hole is routered. In the first pic below the relays where the buckle is, there is a little shelf, under that shelf is the metal bar I'm referring to.

I switched to this type of tie down cam strap (below) because it secures it much tighter. With the strap running to the outside of both metal bars (frame structure under the plastic) there's nowhere for the battery to go or move. Oh, I also used some rubber matting scraps I had to shim around the battery for a tighter fit.

 

[JTW]

Hope that makes sense.. I'll have to take some more pics if you need some clarification. This is just what I had already on my phone. If you feel under the plastic via the wheel we'll you'll feel the two metal "bars" I'm referring to.. they run on the front and back side of the battery hole.

 

[JLH]

Hope that makes sense.. I'll have to take some more pics if you need some clarification. This is just what I had already on my phone. If you feel under the plastic via the wheel we'll you'll feel the two metal "bars" I'm referring to.. they run on the front and back side of the battery hole.

That makes things a lot easier to work out. I had thought of a few things but hadn't located the bars yet. Thanks again.

 

[LapZ]

He was asking for underhood..

Hahaha, Wow, Drinking and reading this forum doesn't work for me. I see clearly now where he is putting it!

 

[JTW]

Hahaha, Wow, Drinking and reading this forum doesn't work for me. I see clearly now where he is putting it!

You'll fit right in then!!

 

[RickB]

Gotcha, So here's my next question. On my P700 I had Winch/Plow, sound bar, LED's around the house, Voltmeter panel. Do you think it would be wise to add a second battery for these accs. if low voltage affects the shifting?

I added a second battery. My thought was even if you can get away with the stock battery to run everything, I'd rather have the reassurance that I won't run out of juice when I'm way up in the hills somewhere. It's not a terribly expensive add-on either for the peace of mind....

 

[sierrahiker68]

JTW, is the device (Relay /solenoid) above and to the left of you True isolator for your winch?

 

[JTW]

JTW, is the device (Relay /solenoid) above and to the left of you True isolator for your winch?

No.. the winch solenoid is in the upper left corner behind the battery.. it's on one of the frame uprights... the solenoid in the center of the pic you're seeing is basically my on off switch for all my accessory power. Winch stays hot directly to the battery.. fuse/relay box is to the left of the solenoid you're speaking of where the intake cover use to be.. and the accessory solenoid is just breaking the feed line to the fuss/relay box via a switch on my switch panel.

 

[sierrahiker68]

No.. the winch solenoid is in the upper left corner behind the battery.. it's on one of the frame uprights... the solenoid in the center of the pic you're seeing is basically my on off switch for all my accessory power. Winch stays hot directly to the battery.. fuse/relay box is to the left of the solenoid you're speaking of where the intake cover use to be.. and the accessory solenoid is just breaking the feed line to the fuss/relay box via a switch on my switch panel.

Got it, thanks
That is what Im thinking too, just not using that massive of a relay to control "Accessory" power.. My total accessory load comes to less than 20 amps. I am going to use a 40A relay..

 

[JTW]

Got it, thanks
That is what Im thinking too, just not using that massive of a relay to control "Accessory" power.. My total accessory load comes to less than 20 amps. I am going to use a 40A relay..

Lol.. yeah,my lightbar draws more than that.. solenoid was cheap on Amazon 80amp I believe. $15

 

[DmaxHunter]

Same one most people are running.

Sorry to revive this thread, but I'm researching a lot on dual battery setups. Think I've got a lot of it figured out but what is the black square below and to the right of the True Isolator in this pic?? (It has 4 neg lines, 3 large and one small, and 2 large positive lines connected to it).

 

[ohanacreek]

Sorry to revive this thread, but I'm researching a lot on dual battery setups. Think I've got a lot of it figured out but what is the black square below and to the right of the True Isolator in this pic?? (It has 4 neg lines, 3 large and one small, and 2 large positive lines connected to it).

Winch contactor. I used 4ga cable from my Optima under the seat. It comes up there in the center the positive goes to the ISO the meg goes to the Winch Contactor, thena 4ga jumper goes from ISO to Contactor for the winch battery feed. The black and read that go down are more 4ga wire going from the contactor to the winch itself.

I used the battery feed side of the winch contactor/ ISO as bus points for the power system. to reduce the length of wires and points of corrosion.

There is a short 4ga wire coming from main battery to ISO and main battery to neg side of contactor.

The way mine was set up the only reason for the connection between the two batteries is to charge the secondary battery(which feeds all added accessories) only when the main battery is above 12.8v

Clear as mud?

 

[DmaxHunter]

Okay, winch contactor, makes sense now. I think I'm tracking most of it, just a few more questions to make sure.

I used the battery feed side of the winch contactor/ ISO as bus points for the power system. to reduce the length of wires and points of corrosion.

When you say bus points for power system, do you mean to your accessory fuse block?? Is that where those smaller gauge wires go?

There is a short 4ga wire coming from main battery to ISO and main battery to neg side of contactor.

I get the one going to the ISO. I don't understand why the Neg from the main battery to the contactor. Why is that one needed?

The way mine was set up the only reason for the connection between the two batteries is to charge the secondary battery(which feeds all added accessories) only when the main battery is above 12.8v

And the only 'connection' between the two batteries is through the True Isolator right? Am I seeing that correctly? If so that makes total sense and that's exactly how I want to set mine up.

 

[ohanacreek]

Okay, winch contactor, makes sense now. I think I'm tracking most of it, just a few more questions to make sure..

When you say bus points for power system, do you mean to your accessory fuse block?? Is that where those smaller gauge wires go?.

10ga red on secondary side of ISO goes to PDM60 by Rowe electronics. Which is .... well easier to go look at their webpage. It feeds all my switches and accessories.

The Lightbar draws @25amps so it goes to a fused relay.

I get the one going to the ISO. I don't understand why the Neg from the main battery to the contactor. Why is that one needed? .

You have to connect the systems just connecting to positive side doesn't give you a complete circuit(sure frame grounds MIGHT complete the circuit but it's not best practice)

And the only 'connection' between the two batteries is through the True Isolator right? Am I seeing that correctly? If so that makes total sense and that's exactly how I want to set mine up.

Yes