New Wheel & Tire Questions

[NFA_Fun]

I am looking at buying a set of 5 wheels and tires for my Talon R. Want same size all the way around including the spare.

Live in Eastern AZ and primarily ride forest roads and trails, to include blacktop. Some snow but no mud or anything to crazy.

A91MA Ryno Beadlock – Raceline Wheels

TM Reg. No. 7,264,392 • Rugged split 10 spoke design with offset spokes gives the Ryno UTV a modern feel• Constructed out of heavy duty A356 aluminum with a forged 6061 beadlock ring with US made Grade 8 zinc beadlock hardware included • UTV Beadlock Bolts = 1" length• Available in Machined...

racelinewheels.com

Homepage

www.maxxis.com

The tire and wheel combo above is what I am looking into.

Questions....

Are bead lock needed? Do want to be able to air down for trail riding. Any concerns to be aware of with bead locks??

Have read all positive reviews on the Maxxis Buckshot Mudder II tires. Any concerns using them on the Raceline bead locks?

Overall thoughts in general??


Heading to Ouray in August for two weeks and will be taking the Talon along. Want to have everything ready to go and tested soon, so looking to do this by the end of the month.

Thanks!!

 

[CID]

I think bead locks are almost mandatory, airing down is commonplace and improves the ride quite a bit. I'm still running stock wheels and tires at stock pressures on my Talon R and still have to be careful when loading the sidewall lest I pop a bead. It's rocky here and lower pressures would be welcome but that'll have to wait for bead locks and better tires.

Since you want 5 identical wheels for rotation, you have to buy wheels, they might as well be bead locks IMO.

 

[PaulF]

Just remember that beadlocks tend to leak a little. Not all but most of them do and the tire bead thickness will dictate how much they leak. You will need to keep an eye on tire pressure.

Never trust the X+Y offset numbers, they are mostly used for marketing and often inaccurate. The wheels you linked to are not really 5+2. They are only +10 mm offsets so that make them closer to a 4+3. You can run them but remember 3 things...

1. Your front scrub radius will be much more than stock.
2. Depending on what size tire you end up with (you didn't say), you will be between 72 and 75 inches wide up front with that +10 mm offset.
3. To make the rear as wide as the front, you will need to install 1.5" spacers on each side on the rear.

 

[CID]

Just remember that beadlocks tend to leak a little. Not all but most of them do and the tire bead thickness will dictate how much they leak. You will need to keep an eye on tire pressure.

Never trust the X+Y offset numbers, they are mostly used for marketing and often inaccurate. The wheels you linked to are not really 5+2. They are only +10 mm offsets so that make them closer to a 4+3. You can run them but remember 3 things...

1. Your front scrub radius will be much more than stock.
2. Depending on what size tire you end up with (you didn't say), you will be between 72 and 75 inches wide up front with that +10 mm offset.
3. To make the rear as wide as the front, you will need to install 1.5" spacers on each side on the rear.

Unintended consequences. Shame about the leakage, not sure I'm willing to put up with that.

 

[denniswestfall]

I've got system 3 sb4 beadlocks and after checking them at 50 miles and tightening the ring bolts, I havent lost a pound of air in the last week and a half.


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[PaulF]

I've got system 3 sb4 beadlocks and after checking them at 50 miles and tightening the ring bolts, I havent lost a pound of air in the last week and a half.
View attachment 207454

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I have the exact same rims. Have about 300 miles on them and re-torqued the rings a couple times. Since last Friday, RR lost 0, RF lost 1, LF lost 4, RR lost 8. They have leaked this way since day one and I just keep an eye on them.

Maybe I should have been a little more accurate, some beadlock/tire combinations leak and some don't. I have Tusk Terrabites and they tend to have thinner (and a little more inconstant) beads so they tend to leak. One of these days, I will seal them up but for now it doesn't really bother me.

My paddles are a different story. Those are HD-9's and at first, the fronts wouldn't even hold air for 10 minutes. Discovered the front beads were supper thin and the rear beads were super thick. Weird part was the rings on the wider rear rims were machined flat and caused them to cup and the fronts were machined with a small recess cut, causing them to leak. I swapped the rings front to rear and problem solved. These paddles will loose a couple pounds if they sit for a month.

 

[NFA_Fun]

Paul, thanks for the detailed info! Tire size will be 30x9.0r15.

If I read all the other tire post right, is a 1.5” spacer required for the 5+2 wheels as well?

Goal is to stay close to stock width as possible

 

[PaulF]

Paul, thanks for the detailed info! Tire size will be 30x9.0r15.

If I read all the other tire post right, is a 1.5” spacer required for the 5+2 wheels as well?

Goal is to stay close to stock width as possible

The tires you linked are not listed in that size but if you are really using that tire size then...

30X9.0R15 tires on the +10 mm offset Raceline wheels you linked to will make you 72" wide 😲

When using the same wheels front and back, the offset doesn't determine the spacers. No matter the offset (as long as the front and rear are the same), you always need 1.6" but they don't make them that size so you have to use 1.5" spacers.

If you want to stay at or near 68.4" you must use a 6+1 wheel. Only 2 known manufacturers, STI has a 50 mm offset and System 3 has a 45 mm offset. With the tire you listed above, you will be 68.7" wide with the STI and 69.1 with the System 3.

Anything with less than a +45 mm offset will make you quite a bit wider.

If you are actually using 30X9.50R15 (which I suspect you are) then you need to add about 1" to those width measurements I stated above.

 

[Enigma]

Great information PaulF. Very helpful.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Unintended consequences. Shame about the leakage, not sure I'm willing to put up with that.

Just rtv the bead.

zero leakage.

 

[CTDpower]

If you want to stay with raceline then you could get the podium wheels in a 15x6. They are +40. That would make it over 2" narrower front and rear, still more than stock though. Email raceline and ask about fitment issues. They replied back to me instantly (same day). Maxxis is owned by their parent company. Raceline makes beacklock ring spacers. They can tell you for that combination if you will have any trouble or need the spacers.

 

[Fyathyrio]

How about a non-beadlock wheel option for near stock width? I would like same wheel/tire combo front & rear, but really don't want/need the hassle of airing up & down, or constant bead ring torque checking, or loss of air, or balance issues, or any of the other concerns inherent with beadlocks. I just wanna hop in and ride.

The closest I've found so far are the ST-3, with a 40mm offset. That wheel would make about 3/4" wider front not including tire width addition, right?

I've not lost a pound of air in 8 months on stock.

 

[PaulF]

Run 4 stock front wheels with 1.5" spacers on rear. This works real good up to 10" wide tires. This will make you about 1" wider than stock due to the tires being wider.

The only other selection is some (various manufacturers) with +40 mm offsets. These will all put you about 2" wider than stock with a 10" tire.