D
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Here's my dual intake snorkel solution that uses 2" PVC pipe all the way to the intake tube and no rubber adapter or reducer.
Materials
(1) 2" PVC 10' to make the other pieces. May have gotten away with 8' - $6.99
(1) 2" PVC @ 3" long taper one end
(3) 2" PVC 90 degree elbows - $1.79 ea $3.58 total
(2) 2" PVC 60 degree elbows - $1.79 ea $3.58 total
(1) Wye adaptor with 90 degree - $2.79
(3) 2" PVC @ 1 1/2" long
(1) 2" PVC @ 11 1/2" long
(1) 2" PVC @ 2 1/2" long
(2) 2" PVC @ 21" long
Total $ 16.94
I already had the rest of it.
PVC primer and cement ~ $7 or $8
Hose clamps ~ $10
Paint ~$5
Zip Ties ~ $1
Approx. $41 for the whole thing.
This is going to be a long post... I may turn it into a video.
The above material list looks like this prior to fitting and gluing. The 21" pieces can be whatever you want and I don't show them in the photo below. I also don't show the 90 degree elbows I used at the top because it's your preference.
Remove rear rack and plastic by removing the 8 bolts that mount the rack to the frame. Remove the plastic dart that holds the factory intake tube to the rear fender. Unplug the brake light harness located just above the battery box.
Remove the factory "snorkel" but not the rubber intake tube.
1 1/2" PVC is too small to fit into the factory intake tube. 2" is a little too big. I used my belt sander mounted upside down (you can also put a belt sander in a vise) and sanded one end of the PVC pipe for 10 minutes until it fit into the factory intake tube. It's a very snug fit and works great. This is the same thing you have to do for the intake mod on an F150.
It's a tight fit into the intake tube.
Dry fit all pieces to make sure everything fits. Partially reinstall the rear rack because it's a tight fit between the rack and the roll bar and you need to make sure the snorkel is out of the way. I used a Sharpie to mark and number all pieces to align them during gluing.
I leveled the PVC to intake tube connection. I'm not sure if that's important but it seemed like it could be.
I glued some of it on ground and some of it in place to make sure everything fits. Here it is all glued up.
After the PVC cement dried, I applied silicon caulk to all joints. After everything dried I sprayed it with Krylon plastic paint.
I ran into a snag. The intake tube came loose trying to wrestle the 3" tapered piece in. I noticed a thin film of something that looked like a waterproof seal. I cleaned the tube and surfaces and applied Permatex black around the air box hole. I put the tube back in then blobbed Permatex black all around including around the sensor next to the intake tube.
Even being one big piece, it installed pretty easily. I used temporary zip ties to get everything level and lined up.
Lots of zip ties and a few hose clamps to hold it securely to the roll bars. As mentioned above, I had to use a larger hose clamp on the factory intake tube.
I installed the rear rack and checked the fitment. Plenty of room, however, the plastic tray that used to sit in front of the air box no longer fits. I'm going to have to cut it up.
And done!
Materials
(1) 2" PVC 10' to make the other pieces. May have gotten away with 8' - $6.99
(1) 2" PVC @ 3" long taper one end
(3) 2" PVC 90 degree elbows - $1.79 ea $3.58 total
(2) 2" PVC 60 degree elbows - $1.79 ea $3.58 total
(1) Wye adaptor with 90 degree - $2.79
(3) 2" PVC @ 1 1/2" long
(1) 2" PVC @ 11 1/2" long
(1) 2" PVC @ 2 1/2" long
(2) 2" PVC @ 21" long
Total $ 16.94
I already had the rest of it.
PVC primer and cement ~ $7 or $8
Hose clamps ~ $10
Paint ~$5
Zip Ties ~ $1
Approx. $41 for the whole thing.
This is going to be a long post... I may turn it into a video.
The above material list looks like this prior to fitting and gluing. The 21" pieces can be whatever you want and I don't show them in the photo below. I also don't show the 90 degree elbows I used at the top because it's your preference.
Remove rear rack and plastic by removing the 8 bolts that mount the rack to the frame. Remove the plastic dart that holds the factory intake tube to the rear fender. Unplug the brake light harness located just above the battery box.
Remove the factory "snorkel" but not the rubber intake tube.
1 1/2" PVC is too small to fit into the factory intake tube. 2" is a little too big. I used my belt sander mounted upside down (you can also put a belt sander in a vise) and sanded one end of the PVC pipe for 10 minutes until it fit into the factory intake tube. It's a very snug fit and works great. This is the same thing you have to do for the intake mod on an F150.
It's a tight fit into the intake tube.
Dry fit all pieces to make sure everything fits. Partially reinstall the rear rack because it's a tight fit between the rack and the roll bar and you need to make sure the snorkel is out of the way. I used a Sharpie to mark and number all pieces to align them during gluing.
I leveled the PVC to intake tube connection. I'm not sure if that's important but it seemed like it could be.
I glued some of it on ground and some of it in place to make sure everything fits. Here it is all glued up.
After the PVC cement dried, I applied silicon caulk to all joints. After everything dried I sprayed it with Krylon plastic paint.
I ran into a snag. The intake tube came loose trying to wrestle the 3" tapered piece in. I noticed a thin film of something that looked like a waterproof seal. I cleaned the tube and surfaces and applied Permatex black around the air box hole. I put the tube back in then blobbed Permatex black all around including around the sensor next to the intake tube.
Even being one big piece, it installed pretty easily. I used temporary zip ties to get everything level and lined up.
Lots of zip ties and a few hose clamps to hold it securely to the roll bars. As mentioned above, I had to use a larger hose clamp on the factory intake tube.
I installed the rear rack and checked the fitment. Plenty of room, however, the plastic tray that used to sit in front of the air box no longer fits. I'm going to have to cut it up.
And done!
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