P1000 Park and 2wd lock adjustment

[ghost]

Yeah - it is a bit confusing.
The manual says to make sure it is in 2wd mode, then check the release of diff lock.
I did my adjustment while it was locked and it worked. Not sure if matters what mode it is in while doing the adjustment since you are pushing the arm back while making the adjustment.
Here is the full page from the manual.Hopefully the details are visible when you click on it.

 

[Admin]

 

[ghost]

My 2wd lock indicator will not turn , and also 4wd and diff lock will not turn on .The cable adjustments seem fine . But it only starting after i tried to make sure and adjust the cables were adjusted like shown but i Did not jack up the rear on the one side like i suppose to . I should have left it alone . lol Any HELP ?

Read the instructions carefully and start over.
The adjustment nuts will pull out on a partial turn - they should fall back into position when you adjust a bit more. The should be in the lowered position.

 

[jpgoody98]

Clarification please. Your post here says to make sure your in 2wd meaning both rear wheels locked correct? But the post down below from the manual says to verify rear wheels are not lock like meaning make sure it in turf mode. Which is it?

That is a little unclear in the book as well Bayouownbeer...

It says to perform the procedure while in LOCK...and never mentions moving the selector to TURF.

If you read closely it states to: Raise one side, then rotate tire to "check the release of rear differential lock"...it seemed odd to me too, but I assumed that mean the full release of the rear lock cable......as in absolute full lock. ( the lock only truely engages/disengages when wheels spinning).... Plus, when I did mine, the LOCK icon indicator did NOT come on UNTIL i rotated the raised tire.....So it seemed correct to me.

Mine was getting a little troublesome when going from lock/turf modes, now its working great.

So that why I said "2: Jack one side off ground, rotate one wheel, this ensures full LOCK cable position." in my post above....to attempt to avoid confusion......

Above Ghost posted the entire page, thanks Ghost, about the procedure for people to read for themselves.

And YES, like Ghost mentions, make sure you give the adjustment nuts a FULL rotation, if you look closely at them there is a large lobe/groove they fall back into after each revolution to hold their place.

 

[Bayouownbeer]

That is a little unclear in the book as well Bayouownbeer...

It says to perform the procedure while in LOCK...and never mentions moving the selector to TURF.

If you read closely it states to: Raise one side, then rotate tire to "check the release of rear differential lock"...it seemed odd to me too, but I assumed that mean the full release of the rear lock cable......as in absolute full lock. ( the lock only truely engages/disengages when wheels spinning).... Plus, when I did mine, the LOCK icon indicator did NOT come on UNTIL i rotated the raised tire.....So it seemed correct to me.

Mine was getting a little troublesome when going from lock/turf modes, now its working great.

So that why I said "2: Jack one side off ground, rotate one wheel, this ensures full LOCK cable position." in my post above....to attempt to avoid confusion......

Above Ghost posted the entire page, thanks Ghost, about the procedure for people to read for themselves.

And YES, like Ghost mentions, make sure you give the adjustment nuts a FULL rotation, if you look closely at them there is a large lobe/groove they fall back into after each revolution to hold their place.

Thanks I did mine the other day the only thing I didn't do was push back on the center one to get the 1/4" clearance. I did the 1/4"
Adjustment without pushing it back. Seems to work fine. I'll redo it when get time

 

[Hognott]

And YES, like Ghost mentions, make sure you give the adjustment nuts a FULL rotation, if you look closely at them there is a large lobe/groove they fall back into after each revolution to hold their place.

Mine will set on the barrel at 1/2 turn increments (180 degrees). 1 full rotation was too much.

 

[MBPIONEER]

***CABLE SUMMARY***

Here's the run down on these cables folks....per the Honda Service Manual....

Two Spots of adjustment, they do two different things.

1: Shift Lever Adjustment (P-N-H-L)
2: Drive Mode Lever Adjustment (2WD-TURF...ect)

BOTH of mine very much needed adjustment at 20hrs/100miles...cables always stretch when new.

Shift Lever:
Very important, does your SxS lurch, pop out of gear, late clutch engage/disengage?
This adjusts under the hood, under the battery, very important.
1: Remove hood, battery, and the black access panel underneath battery.
2: You will then see the cable, sitting in its "stay", 19mm lock nuts holding its position.
3: Place SxS in Neutral & 2WD.
4: Loosen both holding nuts, got back to the SxS cab. **Do not shift from N**
5: With out leaving N, check the Shift Lever's "vertical free play" (wobble), it should be CENTERED.
-------------Not favoring the up(Park) direction, or down(High) direction.
-------------Mine was heavily favoring the up direction, toward park...
6: Adjust the lock nuts until the free-play is centered, I needed to tighten the top nut.
7: Once happy, tighten the lock nuts 20ft-lbs and re-check.

This solved all the little issues my SxS had developed at break in. It was lurching when taking off from a stop, very annoying when pulling onto trailer or into garage. And when braking to a stop the clutch was disengaging late.

Drive Mode Lever:
1: Place SxS levers in Park and 2WD.
2: Jack one side off ground, rotate one wheel, this ensures full LOCK cable position.
3: Dump the bed, remove access panel in the driver side rear passenger foot well.
4: Remove four 10mm bolts on cable housing cover.
5: You will see:
---------Two cables coming in on outside, one in center exiting to rear diff.
---------All three are in a holder swiveling "arm".
6: Adjust the two outside cable's until the "arm" is centered between the housing's four tick marks.
7: Then adjust the middle cable so its pivot pin is flush with the "arms" index line.
--------Check that there is at least 1/4'' (6mm) gap between this pivot pin and rear of the arm's guide hole.

It should look like this when finished:



View attachment 11625

Thank you very much for the time and details in your comment. You saved me a an hour drive to the dealer then likely waiting a couple days to go back and get it. Happy I can drive on my lawn again!

 

[Mtncur28]

thanks guys it took me about 15 minutes to get it right, working great

 

[500]

I had to adjust mine as well. It seemed that the adjustments rattled loose.

The box is under the rear passenger floorboard. There is a access panel on the floor itself.

Tonight mine became hard to shift into low randomly. Drove around 5-6 miles and all of a sudden it wouldn't go into low. Very difficult to shift back up to park and back into gear. Now, when in gear, it idles forward or backwards while in gear without applying any throttle. First time this has happened. I assume Park/drive cable adjustment? Would this be related to the clutch never releasing/disengaging now while at idle? I quit driving it as I don't want to damage the clutches since they won't disengage.

 

[joeymt33]

Tonight mine became hard to shift into low randomly. Drove around 5-6 miles and all of a sudden it wouldn't go into low. Very difficult to shift back up to park and back into gear. Now, when in gear, it idles forward or backwards while in gear without applying any throttle. First time this has happened. I assume Park/drive cable adjustment? Would this be related to the clutch never releasing/disengaging now while at idle? I quit driving it as I don't want to damage the clutches since they won't disengage.

Is it idling too high?

 

[500]

Is it idling too high?

No change in idle. Bangs when you shift it. Clutch won't disengage.

 

[Nightcrawler]

Sounds like the exact symptoms of the cable needing to be adjusted to me.

 

[500]

Am I correct in that once I remove the battery and disconnect the ground, the clutches will have to be reset?

 

[Nightcrawler]

I never noticed any difference, and have heard others here report the same.

 

[chadbo]

I haven't made any adjustments but noticed park h l shifter getting hard and was trying to study on adjusting but finally noticed gas petal sticking just a touch. So little I didn't notice rpm up at all but it lacking that touch was making the shift stiff

 

[500]

Fixed, see "Clutch/shifting question" thread.

 

[Plumber101010]

If the box under the battery controls park neutral blah blah, and the one in the rear only handles the drive modes something is not right. Because as soon as I tightened everything in the rear box, the shifting lever became extremely tight to get out of park???

This box is not supposed to have anything to do with that right?

 

[500]

If the box under the battery controls park neutral blah blah, and the one in the rear only handles the drive modes something is not right. Because as soon as I tightened everything in the rear box, the shifting lever became extremely tight to get out of park???

This box is not supposed to have anything to do with that right?

They are directly related. The park engagement also moves the cables in the rear box.

 

[500]

If the box under the battery controls park neutral blah blah, and the one in the rear only handles the drive modes something is not right. Because as soon as I tightened everything in the rear box, the shifting lever became extremely tight to get out of park???

This box is not supposed to have anything to do with that right?

I actually ended up adjusting both of mine. However, below the battery it is just jam/lock nuts on the cable adjustment to set the neutral position, not a box like the rear.

 

[Plumber101010]

WoW!!! talk about a fast response

I am seriously amazed at what one full complete turn did. Now when I put it in diff lock it immediately lights up and goes into gear. Can't believe one turn made such a difference.

I cheated though, I didn't jack it up, I just left it in neutral and rolled the whole thing a couple feet back-and-forth assuming it did the same thing

 

[Plumber101010]

Was a little confused about the center adjusting. It says to adjust the pivot pin flush. Flush which way? Bottom of the pin flush, top or middle? Looking at the picture I would say bottom but even the bottom isn't exactly flush.

And also I can't see in the thread where it says what each outside cable does? The center it says the rear diff but what does the driver and passenger side cable do?