P1000 Pioneer 1000 5 Dump Bed - Lift Strut Replacement - Heavy Duty

[Wisco-Tango]

So I ordered my strut and received it today. I attempted to compress it by hand to see how much force was exerted, and could not get the strut to budge one bit. I am not a small guy and used my weight to exert more force with no movement. So I decided to use a ratchet strap to compress it before I installed it on my machine.

Guess what? Still no movement and it appeared to start to try and bow the rod as I exerted more force on the strap. I've sent an e-mail off to the manufacturer to see what's up and to see if I can get a replacement.

Am I missing something? Anyone experience this?

Thanks.

 

[Admin]

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Why are you trying to compress it?
Lift your bed all the way up and install it fully extended.
I don't follow your difficulty.
Look at the pictures in my post #1.
You don't need to compress it to install.

 

[Wisco-Tango]

My OEM strut for my 1000-3 I believe is longer than that on a 1000-5 as it extends to a little over 25.5" inches. If I ordered the shorter strut you did then you are correct that I wouldn't need to compress it to install. I ordered the longer strut so the box would limit out on travel prior to the strut. Either way the strut should compress the way I had the strap rigged on it.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Sorry friend,
I still don't understand the need to compress it by hand, unless it's too long to fit.
Doesn't surprise me you can't readily compress the cylinder based on its specs.
Stabilus would likely exchange it if not damaged. Lifetime warranty.
Sorry if I didn't explain well enough. #37
Dont hurt yourself.

 

[Wisco-Tango]

Sorry friend,
I still don't understand the need to compress it by hand, unless it's too long to fit.
Doesn't surprise me you can't readily compress the cylinder based on its specs.
Stabilus would likely exchange it if not damaged. Lifetime warranty.
Sorry if I didn't explain well enough. #37
Dont hurt yourself.

For all intents and purposes it is to long to fit fully extended. I did that on purpose, as I wanted to maximize the lift height, so I went slightly longer than the max my box will go with the current strut (25.5"). It is roughly 1.5" longer than the current strut.
I can exert way more force then the strut exerts with the way I wrapped my strap around it with the ratchet along the length.

I was surprised when I couldn't even get a small movement when I pulled it from the box and just tried to compress it against the floor with my 260lb fat ass.

 

[Ppaliani21]

Just order what I did. It will fit and you won't be disappointed. Pm me if you need help confirming measurements and your order.
Don't burn more calories and money, buying another oem strut.
Jim

Can you give me a hand ordering a new strut for my 2018 pioneer 10000?

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Can you give me a hand ordering a new strut for my 2018 pioneer 10000?

Sure,
For a 1000 5
Order this -

I Ordered the following -
** 10-23-250(stroke), steel strut- 1250 Newton force.
** 1 - M8 X 30 mm elbow ball fitting- top
** 1 - M8 X 18mm elbow ball fitting - bottom.
If you need more, pm me.
I can order for you, if you need.

 

[Darby]

I just ordered the above - not realizing the 1000 (3), utilizes a longer (about 2" longer) strut than the (5) apparently utilizes. And the jump from a 580 nm to a 1250 is significant.... while this "works" on the 3 - it's NOT optimal. Much harder to close, (I suspect Honda used a stronger strut for the extra weight of the empty bed on a 5 with the seats/etc.) and the bed does not go up as much as it originally did. IF Your trying to do this with a 1000(3), I would try to find a strut that is around 8-900 nm and 25-26" fully extended.

 

[Lochsa88]

I just ordered the above - not realizing the 1000 (3), utilizes a longer (about 2" longer) strut than the (5) apparently utilizes. And the jump from a 580 nm to a 1250 is significant.... while this "works" on the 3 - it's NOT optimal. Much harder to close, (I suspect Honda used a stronger strut for the extra weight of the empty bed on a 5 with the seats/etc.) and the bed does not go up as much as it originally did. IF Your trying to do this with a 1000(3), I would try to find a strut that is around 8-900 nm and 25-26" fully extended.

i havent figured out what went wrong with my order, but im guessing same as yours. i read somewhere that they were likely the same so i just ordered from this post. it didnt fit my P-k3. just hadnt made time to figure if it was my error when ordering or just the wrong measurements. i'll probably make someone a deal on the one i rec'd and maybe try again. Would be nice to know for sure though before i order again. haha attached is pic of the two

 

[seijirou]

Very cool. Need to go see what my 1000-6 comes with.

 

[NTCPrezJB]

Very cool. Need to go see what my 1000-6 comes with.

Probably the 3 seater version but I’m just guessing.

 

[Darby]

i havent figured out what went wrong with my order, but im guessing same as yours. i read somewhere that they were likely the same so i just ordered from this post. it didnt fit my P-k3. just hadnt made time to figure if it was my error when ordering or just the wrong measurements. i'll probably make someone a deal on the one i rec'd and maybe try again. Would be nice to know for sure though before i order again. haha attached is pic of the two

View attachment 426614

Yea... I had my wife try to open and close the bed on my 2016 Pioneer 1000(3) - with the new strut. She couldn't do it... so it was a waste of $50. It appears my 2024 Pioneer 1000(3) strut is different than the 2016's... but in any event... this strut is too strong for a 3.

 

[Wisco-Tango]

i havent figured out what went wrong with my order, but im guessing same as yours. i read somewhere that they were likely the same so i just ordered from this post. it didnt fit my P-k3. just hadnt made time to figure if it was my error when ordering or just the wrong measurements. i'll probably make someone a deal on the one i rec'd and maybe try again. Would be nice to know for sure though before i order again. haha attached is pic of the two

View attachment 426614

I ordered the 300mm stroke @ 1250N for my 1000-3 since it is longer than the 100-5 from what you have in your picture. Since I ordered it longer than max lift height I needed to compress it a little and I couldn't @1250n. I even put a ratchet strap on it and the rod began to bow with no movement in the cylinder. Sent it back as I assumed it was defective. They haven't checked it yet, and asked what force I wanted it set to assuming it isn't defective. Sounds like I should spec the 900N one based on @Darby's wife could close, since my wife will likely have the same issue. She is a tough mid-western girl though....

 

[bumperm]

As @Dirtstiffs-1000 said, do not order a strut that is longer that your original! Trying to compress the strut without bending and damaging it will be near impossible unless you have special tooling, as any compressive force must remain perfectly in column with the strut. The shaft must stay perfectly straight, any bowing at all, with these high "spring" rates will have it bow just a tiny bit - that's all it takes for it to quickly bow more and take a permanent bend. I.e. you can't compress it with a ratchet strap or similar with any hope of not damaging it.

Also, having extra unused travel in a gas spring is of no benefit, as one would expect when installing a metal coil spring.

 

[Wisco-Tango]

As @Dirtstiffs-1000 said, do not order a strut that is longer that your original! Trying to compress the strut without bending and damaging it will be near impossible unless you have special tooling, as any compressive force must remain perfectly in column with the strut. The shaft must stay perfectly straight, any bowing at all, with these high "spring" rates will have it bow just a tiny bit - that's all it takes for it to quickly bow more and take a permanent bend. I.e. you can't compress it with a ratchet strap or similar with any hope of not damaging it.

Also, having extra unused travel in a gas spring is of no benefit, as one would expect when installing a metal coil spring.

I understand what you are saying but the method I used to compress the cylinder shouldn't have caused the bow unless the cylinder was stuck, as it wouldn't side load any more than the offset built into the mounting to attach it to the bed. The other options for a 1000-3 are 3" shorter (@Dirtstiffs-1000) config or the next longer is 1-3/4" shorter. The mfg. is willing to work with me but hasn't processed my return yet. I'll likely end up with the 1-3/4" short and will probably have them set the force to 900N (based on @Darby feedback with the 1250N on his 1000-3) as that is significantly more than my 580N OEM cylinder.

 

[bumperm]

I understand what you are saying but the method I used to compress the cylinder shouldn't have caused the bow unless the cylinder was stuck, as it wouldn't side load any more than the offset built into the mounting to attach it to the bed. The other options for a 1000-3 are 3" shorter (@Dirtstiffs-1000) config or the next longer is 1-3/4" shorter. The mfg. is willing to work with me but hasn't processed my return yet. I'll likely end up with the 1-3/4" short and will probably have them set the force to 900N (based on @Darby feedback with the 1250N on his 1000-3) as that is significantly more than my 580N OEM cylinder.

Not to be argumentative, but again, you cannot compress the gas spring with a ratchet strap with any hope of preventing it from bowing - just no way without making some sort of mechanical apparatus to add rigidity. Then that very apparatus would likely get in the way of getting the gas spring installed. If you simply loop the strap over both ends of the spring as you likely tried, the side with the ratchet mechanism will pull tighter than the opposite side due to the friction between the strap where it goes over the gas spring ends. It won't take much friction as the spring is not designed to resist much lateral force at all. This side loading will be enough to cause the spring to bend just a tiny bit, and that will be enough to fail it due to the very strong compressive loading.

When installed properly, both ends of the spring are free to pivot, moving within an arc to prevent any significant side loading. Normally, the spring attach fitting, either ball, bushing or bearing, will be mounted to the structure rigidly so it will impose no significant side loading to the spring since the spring ends are free to pivot.