I have several questions about a clunking noise when shifting between 1st & 2nd gear and 2nd & 3rd gear that WAS NOT present prior to a burnt clutch replacement. Backstory: I purchased a 2021 P1KM5 that had been ridden hard and put up wet. It had a burnt clutch and a bad rear axle / CV joint as noticed by the pronounced high rev mainly between 3rd & 5th gears and the clicking noises when turning in reverse. After reading @CumminsPusher 's guide to clutch replacement I decided to tackle the job myself doing CP's method with minimal disassembly. I'll qualify my skills by saying that I'm definitely not a skilled mechanic but I'm a pretty good parts changer. The job appeared to go off without a hitch with a successful clutch relearn procedure, shifting tight, and no noises. Then it was onto the axle/CV. I replaced the axle and viola, the clicking noise in reverse was gone. It was then, about 150 miles post clutch change, that I noticed a clicking in forward, not reverse. At first, I thought it was another bad CV joint but the clicking got louder until it became a clunking. It wasn't until I put the bike in manual shift that I noticed the clunking occurred right before a gear change. My research across this forum has led me to the shift solenoids making noise. Most people say that this is normal but my contention is that it's not normal as it only started after clutch replacement. Finally the questions:
1) Could poor cleaning during the clutch change cause this? I changed both the engine and DCT filters after the clutch replacement. I did not take apart the clutch valve body and clean it or the screen and I didn't drop the oil pan and clean the oil pickup screen. Could this lead to a lower oil pressure causing the solenoids to make more noise?
2) I asked on another thread if I could remove the clutch valve body without removing the clutch cover and @joeymt33 responded that it could. Even though it can, would oil seep out of the removed cover, or is the level in the case lower than that? Of course, this will be a moot question if I have to clean the oil pickup screen. Are new gaskets needed if removing the clutch valve body and oil pan? If so, does anyone have the part numbers?
3) I also read that chamfering the valve body around the solenoids greatly reduced the noise from a clunk to a click. Most of these posts dealt with the early models, before the clutch update. Is the valve body chamfered post clutch update or is this something that is still recommended to improve shifting?
4) @HondaTech says the correct procedure for a clutch change is to remove the whole rear engine case when installing the clutch. This is to install the 6mm bolt to align the two-piece scissor gear and set the spring tension to dampen the crank pulses. By not doing this, can this cause the increased shifting noise? Also, if the 6mm bolt is to set the tension, is there a torque spec for the install?
Sorry for the long post and tagging everyone, I just didn't want to hijack other threads with several questions pieced together.
1) Could poor cleaning during the clutch change cause this? I changed both the engine and DCT filters after the clutch replacement. I did not take apart the clutch valve body and clean it or the screen and I didn't drop the oil pan and clean the oil pickup screen. Could this lead to a lower oil pressure causing the solenoids to make more noise?
2) I asked on another thread if I could remove the clutch valve body without removing the clutch cover and @joeymt33 responded that it could. Even though it can, would oil seep out of the removed cover, or is the level in the case lower than that? Of course, this will be a moot question if I have to clean the oil pickup screen. Are new gaskets needed if removing the clutch valve body and oil pan? If so, does anyone have the part numbers?
3) I also read that chamfering the valve body around the solenoids greatly reduced the noise from a clunk to a click. Most of these posts dealt with the early models, before the clutch update. Is the valve body chamfered post clutch update or is this something that is still recommended to improve shifting?
4) @HondaTech says the correct procedure for a clutch change is to remove the whole rear engine case when installing the clutch. This is to install the 6mm bolt to align the two-piece scissor gear and set the spring tension to dampen the crank pulses. By not doing this, can this cause the increased shifting noise? Also, if the 6mm bolt is to set the tension, is there a torque spec for the install?
Sorry for the long post and tagging everyone, I just didn't want to hijack other threads with several questions pieced together.
