P1000m3 Power to LEDS

[Crash14]

I know this has probably been covered before but wth.

I have rear and front light bars and the dealer wired directly to the battery. The switches have small LED on/off lights that stay on all the time. I’ve been told that’s fine but would like yalls opinion. Should I change to operate when the key is on or what? If so, what is the best way to do it?

 

[Admin]

 

[ToddACimer]

I prefer my lights to be only powered with ignition power on

 

[jnjspring15]

Get you a small fuse block that has a ground bus bar with it, take your power and negative leads to the fuse block. Buy a fuse tap and tap the 15a accessories fuse and run that to the positive of the fuse block and then a neg leg to the negative post on the block. That should give you keyed on power, I wouldn’t think you’d have to change anything as far as the switches go as you’re just changing from a direct home run to a fused keyed power source.

 

[Hondoman]

How much current do your bars draw? My guess is more than 15a combined. If so, the accessories fuse won't handle them if they are on at the same time. I installed a solenoid that triggers from the accessory wire when the ignition key is on. It feeds my 52" light bar separate from my 100a fuse block since the bar takes a 40a fuse. I didn't want to takeaway from the amperage capacity from my fuse block.

 

[jnjspring15]

Ideally he’d be better off with a second battery, a isolator and a relay. Just trying to make the best of what he has already, my set up is similar but I have a solinoid that’s keyed hot from the accessory fuse but has a power leg straight off the aux battery then to the fuse block.

 

[Eltobgi]

I know this has probably been covered before but wth.

I have rear and front light bars and the dealer wired directly to the battery. The switches have small LED on/off lights that stay on all the time. I’ve been told that’s fine but would like yalls opinion. Should I change to operate when the key is on or what? If so, what is the best way to do it?

I recommend isolating all electrical accessories by using a dual battery set up and isolator! If you choose NOT to add another battery, then I would suggest changing it to key on to avoid the constant draw on your battery from the switches!

 

[Hondoman]

Ideally he’d be better off with a second battery, a isolator and a relay. Just trying to make the best of what he has already, my set up is similar but I have a solinoid that’s keyed hot from the accessory fuse but has a power leg straight off the aux battery then to the fuse block.

Ideally he’d be better off with a second battery, a isolator and a relay. Just trying to make the best of what he has already, my set up is similar but I have a solinoid that’s keyed hot from the accessory fuse but has a power leg straight off the aux battery then to the fuse block.

Mines setup the same as yours with an isolator and second battery. I left that part out. I agree, I think it's the best setup.

 

[Crash14]

Mines setup the same as yours with an isolator and second battery. I left that part out. I agree, I think it's the best setup.

I have 2cubes in back and a 13” front light.

 

[ohanacreek]

I have 2cubes in back and a 13” front light.

If that’s all you’ve got I doubt it’s 15a but I’d dbl check.

 

[Hondoman]

I have 2cubes in back and a 13” front light.

What is the advertised wattage on them?

 

[Crash14]

What is the advertised wattage on them?

The 13” is 73 watts and the cubes are 20 I think.
What do yall think about tap splicing both into my ignition wire?

 

[Plumber32]

The little leds do draw power over time. My switch for my stereo is wired to battery instead of fuse block.so i can run it without the key on as it counts hrs even if not running. I throw the battery tender on every week if i havent run it much. And it takes a couple hrs to top off the battery .

 

[Crash14]

The little leds do draw power over time. My switch for my stereo is wired to battery instead of fuse block.so i can run it without the key on as it counts hrs even if not running. I throw the battery tender on every week if i havent run it much. And it takes a couple hrs to top off the battery .

I can easily unplug the connections if the sxs is gonna sit for awhile.

 

[Hondoman]

The 13” is 73 watts and the cubes are 20 I think.
What do yall think about tap splicing both into my ignition wire?

If that's all they pull, then the 15a circuit will handle them. I was thinking they were "bigger" lights for some reason.

I have 52" bar on the front that is advertised as 300w. It is too much for a 15a circuit.