P1000 Question on cage chops

Beeerrry

Beeerrry

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So I’ve decided I want to do a cage chop on my 2020 Pioneer 1000–5. Once I made this decision, I started doing some research to see what people have been doing and what seems to be the most common. I’ve decided that I would like to do 4 inches on the A pillar 4.5 inches on the B pillar and 5 inches in the C pillar.  with that said I think I have everything figured out except for what takes place on the B pillar. I would like to cut out the headrest bar and weld in a bar for harnesses. With that said here is my question and a picture demonstrating what I’m asking. What should I expect behind the added metal That is the gussets for the headrest tube? if I take a grinder and grind the welds, will I have a full tube underneath or is that an area I am going to have to try and repair somehow?

Hb1 Hb2
 
Remington

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@Beeerrry why would you want to look like a top fuel dragster with that slope? You can do what you like, but once its done its done.
I did 4-1/2 all the way around. Looks better IMO and you can adjust your shocks to what dragster look or not that you want. Either way your gonna have to sleeve the ROPS cuz when u go shorter your now extending the cage. You said u did some “research” did u mean used the search for the chop top club thread? It has everything you will need to do a chop and then some.
So on mine the B/Y shape part your talking about is hollow, the pipe is not. You will have to grind down the welds to remove it. I threw it away and welded new pipe, much stronger.
Ive attached a few pics for you to see. You can also see the pipe for sleeving the B up top and I sleeved at the bottom of B and the back of C drilled bungs in those to secure it. You can see it all with some detail in my P1K5 build.
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63711452663  713B829A 3993 4BB0 9467 DDF524E44292
IMG 3687
IMG 3569
IMG 3599
63633602205  C18A6FBF EA7C 4340 A532 50E2D6522344
 
Remington

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Beeerrry

Beeerrry

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@Beeerrry why would you want to look like a top fuel dragster with that slope? You can do what you like, but once its done its done.
I did 4-1/2 all the way around. Looks better IMO and you can adjust your shocks to what dragster look or not that you want. Either way your gonna have to sleeve the ROPS cuz when u go shorter your now extending the cage. You said u did some “research” did u mean used the search for the chop top club thread? It has everything you will need to do a chop and then some.
So on mine the B/Y shape part your talking about is hollow, the pipe is not. You will have to grind down the welds to remove it. I threw it away and welded new pipe, much stronger.
Ive attached a few pics for you to see. You can also see the pipe for sleeving the B up top and I sleeved at the bottom of B and the back of C drilled bungs in those to secure it. You can see it all with some detail in my P1K5 build.
View attachment 445783View attachment 445784View attachment 445785View attachment 445786View attachment 445787View attachment 445788

Thank you for the reply although I could do without the smart comments. Yes I’ve done a lot of research. I’ve searched this form a long with others as well as several Facebook pages and there are a ton of people that have done the exact job that I’m speaking of. The only thing I was uncertain of Was what would be behind the plates once I grounded the weld and remove them. Or if I would be better off putting in a whole new piece of pipe there. the chop that I have described will not result and what you are calling a top fuel dragster. In fact what it does is makes the top square with the rest of the body as in Flat. I’m not a fan of the machines being higher in the back, but that is the beauty of the whole situation is, we are all left to, make our machine the way we would like it to be. Have a blessed day.

(I have attached a picture of someone else’s chop that is exactly as I have described. I would like to do mine. With the exception, they kept the headrest.)

F444b7d3dc7ecbeee345fd16804a25df
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Beeerrry

Beeerrry

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Thank you for the link . I did however take a look at it prior to making my post.
 
Remington

Remington

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as well as several Facebook pages and there are a ton of people that have done the exact job that I’m speaking of.
FT That explains everything lol.
They should have all the info you seek then.👍🏻
(I have attached a picture of someone else’s chop that is exactly as I have described. I would like to do mine. With the exception, they kept the headrest.)
I never said Its wrong to do it the way you want to do it, merely states why I wouldnt donit that way and options. Thats why we are here, and sorry that “top fuel dragster” got you all sore🙄 Ill make a note that you are sensitive next time.
I will say the pic u posted looks like hes haulin a load of wood in the back. Thats why before you start this and go by someone else's Idea to know there set up, arms, shocks etc. cuz If your not the same as theres, you may bot be happy with the results.
But you did get an answer to the B pillar, I hope that was to your satisfactory?
 
CGD

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Thank you for the reply although I could do without the smart comments. Yes I’ve done a lot of research. I’ve searched this form a long with others as well as several Facebook pages and there are a ton of people that have done the exact job that I’m speaking of. The only thing I was uncertain of Was what would be behind the plates once I grounded the weld and remove them. Or if I would be better off putting in a whole new piece of pipe there. the chop that I have described will not result and what you are calling a top fuel dragster. In fact what it does is makes the top square with the rest of the body as in Flat. I’m not a fan of the machines being higher in the back, but that is the beauty of the whole situation is, we are all left to, make our machine the way we would like it to be. Have a blessed day.

(I have attached a picture of someone else’s chop that is exactly as I have described. I would like to do mine. With the exception, they kept the headrest.)

View attachment 445793
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did mine 4, 4.5, and 5 and put the headrest bar back in there.
You can see pics of mine in the chop top thread .
 
JenElio

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So I’ve decided I want to do a cage chop on my 2020 Pioneer 1000–5. Once I made this decision, I started doing some research to see what people have been doing and what seems to be the most common. I’ve decided that I would like to do 4 inches on the A pillar 4.5 inches on the B pillar and 5 inches in the C pillar.  with that said I think I have everything figured out except for what takes place on the B pillar. I would like to cut out the headrest bar and weld in a bar for harnesses. With that said here is my question and a picture demonstrating what I’m asking. What should I expect behind the added metal That is the gussets for the headrest tube? if I take a grinder and grind the welds, will I have a full tube underneath or is that an area I am going to have to try and repair somehow?

View attachment 445779 View attachment 445780
To answer your one question, yes, there's a pipe behind the head rest gusset. You'll just have to be very careful grinding away at it to remove it. You can kind of see it in my picture (although I cut that pipe completely)
20210429 192327

I chopped mine exactly the way you want to other than I kept the head rest bar as well. If you chop it as so there's no need to extend the top horizontal ROPs like some mention. I do however recommend adding a sleeve as long as possible for reinforcement purposes to each pillar.

Good luck and post some pics of your chop!! 👍
 
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