P1000 Rebuilding 1000-5

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Maverick04

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All,
My plan is to rebuild a wrecked 1000-5 probably a 2018-2020. My question is if there are any parts that aren’t interchangeable between the 2016-2021 models. I am going to try and buy two wrecked ones and make one out of them. If anyone has an interchange list available it would be great as it will determine what model/year I buy.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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For purposes of your plan, they're all interchangeable. There's a few differences between 16 and 17 like seat thickness and shape of the air intake box, but they're swappable. Some updates were done to clutches, for example, but a 16 could have had that done. Comfort kit (rubber under seat) was also an update that could have been done.

Do you have a source for the wrecked vehicles?
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Also, you can swap between a deluxe and a standard model, but you run into a bunch of differences with an LE.
 
Firemedic530

Firemedic530

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The 2016 frame is much cheaper and the only way to go on frame swap. The right front brake hose and master cylinder are different on the 2016. 2017 and up are the same. I used a 2016 frame on my 2017 and had to cut the brake mount off and weld the 2017 on. I also gusseted the frame around the a arms and cross members.

Be aware that parts are on backorder and may hold you up. I was 3 months for a radiator and still waiting on plastic panels ordered in November.

20210514 210743 20210515 195535
 
solrus

solrus

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Look for 2017 and up , I refurbed 2019 Deluxe 5 seater with 460 miles and it was easy. Doors /roof parts easy to buy from those who went to full aluminum cabs. I found wrecked totaled by the state pioneer that AZ state troopers dropped from the trailer when loading and damaged huge honda full doors, windshield glass, scratched plastic panels and top rops tubes on the drive side , rear view mirror ( no fractured skull remnants :) , at least visible were not found. I found mine on Copart, shipping was 750 from AZ to MT by car freight truck. Paid 13k (12k win bid, had to compete with someone from Russia or Belorussia and fees, no sale tax , I just filed for AZ sale tax rebate and Copart paid me back as deposit on my acc, if I knew I would submit all form prior and did not have to overpay taxes) . Repairs and upgrades 2k . Sold broken full doors for 500$ and some parts.

As you see it was not bad deal, at least AZ state installed all possible accessories, windshield with wiper, honda switch panel, soft window and hard front, heater kit that I had to fix flanges and replaced with aluminum, they were melted

62b58a00 f124 4c17 abde b061a3ec3788 802a8d9e 0130 4db7 9e7d fca4658be036 B069dfee ac5a 448c b2ac 8bbbde3e3b03 F9813ff1 3579 4309 b915 9a5e866e5973
 
solrus

solrus

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The 2016 frame is much cheaper and the only way to go on frame swap. The right front brake hose and master cylinder are different on the 2016. 2017 and up are the same. I used a 2016 frame on my 2017 and had to cut the brake mount off and weld the 2017 on. I also gusseted the frame around the a arms and cross members.

Be aware that parts are on backorder and may hold you up. I was 3 months for a radiator and still waiting on plastic panels ordered in November.

View attachment 288511 View attachment 288512
You have , must admit , lots of patience. What brand paint do you use for the frame? Alkyd, epoxy paint by chem composition?
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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The 2016 frame is much cheaper and the only way to go on frame swap.

Wow, that's good info. I went to ronayers.com and checked - the 2018 frame was $1771 and the 2016 was $1652. I was thinking, ok, a hundred bucks or so.

Then I went to Partzilla and found the 2018 frame was $ 2340 and the 2016 is $720. The moral of that story is definitely go 2016, and shop around.

I wonder if the 2016 frame is just a clearance item? As in, they'll sell a guy a with a 2016 a later-model frame down the road and he has to do mods?
 
M

Maverick04

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Jun 7, 2021
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Upper Michigan
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  1. 1000-5
For purposes of your plan, they're all interchangeable. There's a few differences between 16 and 17 like seat thickness and shape of the air intake box, but they're swappable. Some updates were done to clutches, for example, but a 16 could have had that done. Comfort kit (rubber under seat) was also an update that could have been done.

Do you have a source for the wrecked vehicles?
I was looking at COPART and a local wrecked one.
 
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P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Yeah, I'm not real familiar with the LE, but the i4wd system changes a lot, including diff and axles as mentioned, plus the computer and all. There's no 4 lock on the shifter.
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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Yeah, I'm not real familiar with the LE, but the i4wd system changes a lot, including diff and axles as mentioned, plus the computer and all. There's no 4 lock on the shifter.
True it doesn't "lock" in the same manner as 4WD Lock. Rather it behaves kinda like an intelligent limited slip differential, in that it allows better steering response while still conveying much of the traction advantage of a front locker. i4WD does this by allowing the front wheels to rotate at different speeds for improved steering, like 4WD front unlock). But when one wheel starts to slip or spin, the computer knows it as there is a speed sensor on each front wheel. It then applies braking to the slipping wheel to transfer power to the opposite wheel that still has traction.
 
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Firemedic530

Firemedic530

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I did the entire frame because I had to and it was a big job. I also found things bent/ broken that I hadn't planned on that made it worse.

I would definitely recommend changing out the left side engine mount bolts while the engine is out of the frame. It's a known problem of those bolts that go into the engine case breaking and stripping threads. I didn't change mine and had to do it 1,000 miles later. The frame is in the way when it's assembled. I also bought and modified the Hess talon bracket to try and prevent any future problem with those bolts.

20220911 134249
 
MadMike92

MadMike92

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I did the entire frame because I had to and it was a big job. I also found things bent/ broken that I hadn't planned on that made it worse.

I would definitely recommend changing out the left side engine mount bolts while the engine is out of the frame. It's a known problem of those bolts that go into the engine case breaking and stripping threads. I didn't change mine and had to do it 1,000 miles later. The frame is in the way when it's assembled. I also bought and modified the Hess talon bracket to try and prevent any future problem with those bolts.

View attachment 367743
you talking about the top bolt?
 
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