P1000 Riders Beware

amc019

amc019

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Jan 23, 2016
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Little Rock, Ar
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  1. 1000-5
While finishing up on my alignment for the CATVOS 3" kit last night, where I was starting the rig to drive it around the neighborhood in-between adjustments, I went to turn the machine on one last time and nothing. No dash, no lights, no solenoid/relay clicks, just dead. I knew I hadn't touched anything electrical on this machine, so it wasn't anything I had done.

Started playing around and finally found the culprit under the hood. Where the main 50 AMP fuse is bolted down in the fuse box, the dip-Sh*t that built this part on my rig had over tightened or cross threaded the bolt into the nut insert and it had stripped so the fuse was loose in the holder. After I removed the bolt, you could see that hardly any threads were left in the threaded nut-insert. So I got extremely aggravated as I had planned to ride tomorrow afternoon after not being able to at all since the weekend I bought it in January, threw a few tools around the garage while I was at it. But this meant that a trip to the dealership was out of the question. So I removed the fuse box and opened the little tab underneath where you can get to the clips that hold the nut inserts. Removed them, and saw that they were square, not regular nuts. I panicked a but thinking there was now way to find them anywhere.

Luckily Lowes had just what I needed. 5mm botls with 0.8 thread count. Got 4 bolts, nuts, lock washers, and flat washers because when I removed the bolts that were not stripped, all of them still had some of the metal material from the nut insert stuck in the threads, so I only assume it is a matter of time before they all fail. the 5mm nuts also fit in the square hole on the fuse block perfectly, so it turned out to be an easy fix.

However, I mention all this because I can't imagine what I would do if this happened out on the trail and my machine power cut in and out as it went over each bump in the road. So check your main power fuses! if its tight, leave it alone, if you can jiggle it even a little, better look into replacing the bolts and nut inserts. Honda used dinky stainless-style soft metal bolts and nuts on these things, makes me think about all the other potential issues it could have later.

In all honesty, I was missing my RZR last night. Never had to turn a wrench on her and I hate even thinking that.
 
Bayouownbeer

Bayouownbeer

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Jun 3, 2014
797
1,119
93
Chauvin LA
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  1. 1000-5
While finishing up on my alignment for the CATVOS 3" kit last night, where I was starting the rig to drive it around the neighborhood in-between adjustments, I went to turn the machine on one last time and nothing. No dash, no lights, no solenoid/relay clicks, just dead. I knew I hadn't touched anything electrical on this machine, so it wasn't anything I had done.

Started playing around and finally found the culprit under the hood. Where the main 50 AMP fuse is bolted down in the fuse box, the dip-Sh*t that built this part on my rig had over tightened or cross threaded the bolt into the nut insert and it had stripped so the fuse was loose in the holder. After I removed the bolt, you could see that hardly any threads were left in the threaded nut-insert. So I got extremely aggravated as I had planned to ride tomorrow afternoon after not being able to at all since the weekend I bought it in January, threw a few tools around the garage while I was at it. But this meant that a trip to the dealership was out of the question. So I removed the fuse box and opened the little tab underneath where you can get to the clips that hold the nut inserts. Removed them, and saw that they were square, not regular nuts. I panicked a but thinking there was now way to find them anywhere.

Luckily Lowes had just what I needed. 5mm botls with 0.8 thread count. Got 4 bolts, nuts, lock washers, and flat washers because when I removed the bolts that were not stripped, all of them still had some of the metal material from the nut insert stuck in the threads, so I only assume it is a matter of time before they all fail. the 5mm nuts also fit in the square hole on the fuse block perfectly, so it turned out to be an easy fix.

However, I mention all this because I can't imagine what I would do if this happened out on the trail and my machine power cut in and out as it went over each bump in the road. So check your main power fuses! if its tight, leave it alone, if you can jiggle it even a little, better look into replacing the bolts and nut inserts. Honda used dinky stainless-style soft metal bolts and nuts on these things, makes me think about all the other potential issues it could have later.

In all honesty, I was missing my RZR last night. Never had to turn a wrench on her and I hate even thinking that.
I have ran across several stripped bolts so have others. Poor quality control. Some where from dealer
 
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Johnny_C

Johnny_C

Active Member
Nov 19, 2015
303
143
43
Western N. Carolina
Can you show where to look?

I'm glad you were able to correct it!

Thanks!

John

While finishing up on my alignment for the CATVOS 3" kit last night, where I was starting the rig to drive it around the neighborhood in-between adjustments, I went to turn the machine on one last time and nothing. No dash, no lights, no solenoid/relay clicks, just dead. I knew I hadn't touched anything electrical on this machine, so it wasn't anything I had done.

Started playing around and finally found the culprit under the hood. Where the main 50 AMP fuse is bolted down in the fuse box, the dip-Sh*t that built this part on my rig had over tightened or cross threaded the bolt into the nut insert and it had stripped so the fuse was loose in the holder. After I removed the bolt, you could see that hardly any threads were left in the threaded nut-insert. So I got extremely aggravated as I had planned to ride tomorrow afternoon after not being able to at all since the weekend I bought it in January, threw a few tools around the garage while I was at it. But this meant that a trip to the dealership was out of the question. So I removed the fuse box and opened the little tab underneath where you can get to the clips that hold the nut inserts. Removed them, and saw that they were square, not regular nuts. I panicked a but thinking there was now way to find them anywhere.

Luckily Lowes had just what I needed. 5mm botls with 0.8 thread count. Got 4 bolts, nuts, lock washers, and flat washers because when I removed the bolts that were not stripped, all of them still had some of the metal material from the nut insert stuck in the threads, so I only assume it is a matter of time before they all fail. the 5mm nuts also fit in the square hole on the fuse block perfectly, so it turned out to be an easy fix.

However, I mention all this because I can't imagine what I would do if this happened out on the trail and my machine power cut in and out as it went over each bump in the road. So check your main power fuses! if its tight, leave it alone, if you can jiggle it even a little, better look into replacing the bolts and nut inserts. Honda used dinky stainless-style soft metal bolts and nuts on these things, makes me think about all the other potential issues it could have later.

In all honesty, I was missing my RZR last night. Never had to turn a wrench on her and I hate even thinking that.
 
sthomp54

sthomp54

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2015
356
375
63
I honestly think Honda has some serious quality issues in that SC plant. I am pretty surprised at the poor assembly(overtightened, stripped, and some missing bolts), weld splatters all over the frame under the paint. I still love the machine but it just doesn't seem like Honda quality to me.
 
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sharp

sharp

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Jan 27, 2016
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Tennessee
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  1. 1000-5
Tried to install after market back bumper it's about a 15min job. Bolts to get the side plastic off were on so tight it stripped. Then drilled a hole in the middle of the bolt to use a extractor kit and then it broke off in to the hole I drilled go figure. I was mad that such a small job was taking forever y'all know what I'm talking about. I ended up cutting about a 1 inch by 1 inch hole underneath the bed with my pocket knife to get the factory hinge out and feed the new one in. You can't see the hole I cut but I hated to do it. Oh and by the way if you drill a hole in the bolt to use a extractor don't let the bolt get so hot it melts the plastic
 
Springer

Springer

Active Member
Apr 2, 2014
312
234
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Image
Tried to install after market back bumper it's about a 15min job. Bolts to get the side plastic off were on so tight it stripped. Then drilled a hole in the middle of the bolt to use a extractor kit and then it broke off in to the hole I drilled go figure. I was mad that such a small job was taking forever y'all know what I'm talking about. I ended up cutting about a 1 inch by 1 inch hole underneath the bed with my pocket knife to get the factory hinge out and feed the new one in. You can't see the hole I cut but I hated to do it. Oh and by the way if you drill a hole in the bolt to use a extractor don't let the bolt get so hot it melts the plastic
I had one of the bed side welded nuts stripped as well right from the dealer. The entire left bed side was loose and rattling. The bolt extends about a 1/2 inch past the welded nut, so I was able to put a locknut on the end of it to tighten it down. Seems to hold real nice now.
 
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Delton

Delton

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Jan 6, 2016
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Middle TN
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My side panels (and doors too) had plastic material get into the threads of the inserts. I had to pick it all out before bolt would even try to start.
 
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jguillot

jguillot

Member
Jan 15, 2016
58
32
18
So much mud got between my doors and panels that they would hardly swing open. Aggressively used, yes, but not abused.
 
S

Skillethead

New Member
Jan 24, 2016
1
0
1
Muscle Shoals, AL
When I went to remove the front bumper for a winch plate install, the 2 top bolts on the passenger side bumper mount were over tightened to the extent the square tubing on the frame and bumper was indented probably more than an 1/2 inch. It took forever to get the 2 bolts out. Now after the first ride with a passenger in the back, the seat belt latch on the passenger side won't catch on the left and the right side is stuck in the latched position.
 
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CPope

CPope

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Dec 18, 2015
352
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Pulaski TN
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  1. 1000-5
Found one today while changing the oil, thank goodness I took the skid plate off while I changed the oil, found that the clamp holding the rear sway bar one of the bolts had been stripped from the factory, the threads are still one the bolt. This allowed the sway bar to hit the drive shaft. When I seen the driveshaft had a rub mark, I found the clamp holding the bar was almost pulled completely off. I will be taking it in for warranty to have it repaired.
 
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ghost

ghost

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Dec 4, 2015
993
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BC
I'm trying really hard not to get worked up about these quality issues. Did they hire a bunch of gorillas with over torqued impact wrenches to assemble these? Just gave myself a mental image of what that would look like - LOL

Thanks for the tip to remove the skid plates for service. I'm due for the first service - I'm gonna go over everything now.
 
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dale5740

dale5740

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mt airy md
the next day after i got home from the dealer when I bought it first hing I did was check the oils. removed the seat pulled dipstick no oil at all on stick! put it back in and removed again in disbelief!! nothing.... went got some oil and figured I would add a little at a time and keep track so I could determine how low it was when I was finished. first I added 4 oz's checked it and with dipstick screwed in it just barely touched the stick on the very bottom then went from there glad I checked!!! No other issues but when I do my 20 hour I will be looking real well at everything
 
franzw

franzw

Active Member
Jan 2, 2016
277
249
43
pacific nothwest
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
the next day after i got home from the dealer when I bought it first hing I did was check the oils. removed the seat pulled dipstick no oil at all on stick! put it back in and removed again in disbelief!! nothing.... went got some oil and figured I would add a little at a time and keep track so I could determine how low it was when I was finished. first I added 4 oz's checked it and with dipstick screwed in it just barely touched the stick on the very bottom then went from there glad I checked!!! No other issues but when I do my 20 hour I will be looking real well at everything
What the frig. You picked it up from your dealer new, and they hadn't,t topped off the oil? Hard to imagine.
 
dale5740

dale5740

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mt airy md
ended up putting aprox 14 oz in it to get it up
 
Up2It

Up2It

Member
Jan 9, 2016
93
64
18
Calgary Alberta
My motorcycle has a very specific procedure to check the oil, to the point that it is WAY to easy to over fill it if you don't follow all the rules exactly. Due to the dry sump system. I think that the P1000 seems to be the same way. Run the engine till it warms up. Turn it off and WAIT FOR 2 TO THREE MINUTES (wtf???) THEN INSERT THE DIPSTICK WITHOUT SCREWING IT IN. Seems like it would be much too easy to not follow all the instructions.
 
JasonJ

JasonJ

Member
Jan 5, 2016
30
37
18
North MS
Thank you for the heads up amc019... ill be checking that this weekend.... like you said, that would suck to find out far from home. Mine has still never seen dirt. Only thing ive found so far was a stripped bolt for the battery hold down while installing a winch.
 
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dale5740

dale5740

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Feb 4, 2016
886
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mt airy md
Thank you for the heads up amc019... ill be checking that this weekend.... like you said, that would suck to find out far from home. Mine has still never seen dirt. Only thing ive found so far was a stripped bolt for the battery hold down while installing a winch.
when i check my oil I don't think it was running before that in order to check the oil u need to run it first?
 
CashMoney

CashMoney

Active Member
Feb 5, 2016
329
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Reno, NV
www.SRTNV.com
when i check my oil I don't think it was running before that in order to check the oil u need to run it first?
Yes you need to run it. I'm pretty sure these might be a dry sump and the levels will be off if they are not ran for a few minutes before checking it.
 
dale5740

dale5740

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Yes you need to run it. I'm pretty sure these might be a dry sump and the levels will be off if they are not ran for a few minutes before checking it.
great so I may have overfilled mine then
 
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