P1000m5 Rock Donkey v2 Long Travel

[Dragon21]

They aren't perfect they could be a slightly different width and depth to really maximize what fits in the bed, but for me they are reasonably affordable, stay put, light, and easy to access. Its my perfectionist personality, I can nitpick everything to death, which is why I am always looking for something better.

Yea, but being able to seperate what you bring is added bonus with those. Mine i have a bog box weather its full or not. At least with those you can only bring the boxes you want for that ride. I like that.

 

[Admin]

 

[ohanacreek]

Yea, but being able to seperate what you bring is added bonus with those. Mine i have a bog box weather its full or not. At least with those you can only bring the boxes you want for that ride. I like that.

Exactly, I’ll probably rearrange stuff as I go based on that too.

 

[ohanacreek]

Yea, but being able to seperate what you bring is added bonus with those. Mine i have a bog box weather its full or not. At least with those you can only bring the boxes you want for that ride. I like that.

This was a pain I think I used more than a dozen ratchet straps to hold everything so I could get to it....

 

[ohanacreek]

I finally got around to fixing the a-arm holes, a member who I’d call a good friend a spectacular machinist, made me some pieces to thicken the mounts and trap the head and washer of a specific grade 10.1 bolt.

Top is mine.
Middle is factory new.
Bottom is the custom setup.





DON’T forget to trap the a-arm or you’ll be messing with the CV joint.





I ground the face clean of paint and mud cleaned all the oil off and then bolted everything back up. Then tacked the new washer in.


Time to cool and a little tractor implement paint later...







I realized I never added a picture of the hole in the bushing I added some there was no way for the marine grease to get to the bolt, but found it when I was looking for my old video of the slack.


Before with original bolts and maybe somewhat worn bushings.

After with new bolts and new bushings.

Now the only slack I have in the front end is the steering rack bushing...which probably got a lot of extra wear due to the movement of the a-arms.

 

[Rambo]

I finally got around to fixing the a-arm holes, a member who I’d call a good friend a spectacular machinist, made me some pieces to thicken the mounts and trap the head and washer of a specific grade 10.1 bolt.

Top is mine.
Middle is factory new.
Bottom is the custom setup.
View attachment 91134


DON’T forget to trap the a-arm or you’ll be messing with the CV joint.
View attachment 91136




I ground the face clean of paint and mud cleaned all the oil off and then bolted everything back up. Then tacked the new washer in.
View attachment 91135

Time to cool and a little tractor implement paint later...
View attachment 91137





View attachment 91138
I realized I never added a picture of the hole in the bushing I added some there was no way for the marine grease to get to the bolt, but found it when I was looking for my old video of the slack.


Before with original bolts and maybe somewhat worn bushings.

After with new bolts and new bushings.

Now the only slack I have in the front end is the steering rack bushing...which probably got a lot of extra wear due to the movement of the a-arms.

Just had to do the same thing to mine!!!

 

[ohanacreek]

Just had to do the same thing to mine!!!

View attachment 91147

Wow yours were way worse.

 

[Smitty335]

Just had to do the same thing to mine!!!

View attachment 91147

DANG!

 

[Rambo]

Wow yours were way worse.

Yeah I noticed some chatter not long ago. Glade I caught it before much longer. Thanks to the forum for the heads up!!!

 

[BWAF]

Good fix

I finally got around to fixing the a-arm holes, a member who I’d call a good friend a spectacular machinist, made me some pieces to thicken the mounts and trap the head and washer of a specific grade 10.1 bolt.

Top is mine.
Middle is factory new.
Bottom is the custom setup.
View attachment 91134


DON’T forget to trap the a-arm or you’ll be messing with the CV joint.
View attachment 91136




I ground the face clean of paint and mud cleaned all the oil off and then bolted everything back up. Then tacked the new washer in.
View attachment 91135

Time to cool and a little tractor implement paint later...
View attachment 91137





View attachment 91138
I realized I never added a picture of the hole in the bushing I added some there was no way for the marine grease to get to the bolt, but found it when I was looking for my old video of the slack.


Before with original bolts and maybe somewhat worn bushings.

After with new bolts and new bushings.

Now the only slack I have in the front end is the steering rack bushing...which probably got a lot of extra wear due to the movement of the a-arms.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

 

[ohanacreek]

You guys that have slots instead of bolt holes on the a-arms....how do you keep it on the trail???

I had gotten so used to the sloppy steering when I took it out for a spin today it was like a whole new machine. Felt like it was on rails it was so much better.

 

[Rambo]

You guys that have slots instead of bolt holes on the a-arms....how do you keep it on the trail???

I had gotten so used to the sloppy steering when I took it out for a spin today it was like a whole new machine. Felt like it was on rails it was so much better.

Man I said the same thing, feels totally different. Didn't realize how loose it had gotten over time. I double nutted my bolts and I'll keep a better eye on things this time!

 

[Neohio]

You guys that have slots instead of bolt holes on the a-arms....how do you keep it on the trail???

I had gotten so used to the sloppy steering when I took it out for a spin today it was like a whole new machine. Felt like it was on rails it was so much better.

Is the slots an issue with stock arms as well? Or aftermarket only?

 

[ohanacreek]

Is the slots an issue with stock arms as well? Or aftermarket only?

I think it’s an issue for those that take advantage of the Fox shocks.

 

[Ragnar406]

Did it just happen on the side/ hole where the threaded end of the bolt goes or on the end with the bolt head. Just curious. Slick fix you did... I imagine that there might be a market for it soon enough. I have been pumping in the grease prior to any really big rides in hopes to avoid.

 

[ohanacreek]

Did it just happen on the side/ hole where the threaded end of the bolt goes or on the end with the bolt head. Just curious. Slick fix you did... I imagine that there might be a market for it soon enough. I have been pumping in the grease prior to any really big rides in hopes to avoid.

It was mainly on the rear bolt hole, which is the threaded end because you can’t get the bolt in from the rear.

I was looking for a tight tolerance thick washer. When the other member came up with the machined part idea (I would post his user name but I don’t know that he wants to make 100sets.)

Theres still a tiny bit of play but you can’t eliminate it ALL, there has to be enough room for the bolt to turn. I’m hoping the grease will help not hurt, we will see in a few hundred miles. When you make modifications you have to be willing to make repairs, because you might push a part you didn’t modify past the failure point.

Factory, they hold up and take us places you wouldn’t begin to suspect for just an “old farm rig”

Mine was making noise but really started making noise when @westnpioneer and I raced the entire takeover group to the Top of the World the long rough way. I need to soften the spring rates on my shocks, that will help too.

 

[ohanacreek]

So I have the set of the pre-production Fox shock because I picked them up for far less than the new ones, problem is they were pre-production enough the dual springs were both too stiff and too weak. @snuffnwhisky had some springs with different rates up for grabs. Swapped them over and ride improved drastically, still need to mess with pre-load.

These are just tight enough to stay in place, and show the length difference.

I’m digging the black on silver.



Log tried to take his leg, his shop decided to take revenge


This man is a maestro with metal, I picked up a pair of X3 XRS retractable harnesses and (was going to install a BCF harness bar with the retractable harnesses it really wouldn’t fit in it without cutting the factory headrest mounts completely off) after holding parts while he tacked and watching him work I’m embarrassed to even call myself a grinder. I letterally had nothing to contribute welding wise. I snapped this pic on my way out of town for a few days but a quick test drive and I’m happier than a hog in mud, I’ll get it cleaned up and painted when I get back but I liked them so much I figured I’d throw them out there for others to see if they were considering retractable harnesses or didn’t know they existed. They take a second or two longer than a standard seatbelt to get into but they allow free movement forward to reach things while keeping you in place with the manual lap belt.

 

[JTW]

So I have the set of the pre-production Fox shock because I picked them up for far less than the new ones, problem is they were pre-production enough the dual springs were both too stiff and too weak. @snuffnwhisky had some springs with different rates up for grabs. Swapped them over and ride improved drastically, still need to mess with pre-load.
View attachment 92075
These are just tight enough to stay in place, and show the length difference.
View attachment 92078
I’m digging the black on silver.
View attachment 92079
View attachment 92076
View attachment 92082
Log tried to take his leg, his shop decided to take revenge
View attachment 92081
View attachment 92080
This man is a maestro with metal, I picked up a pair of X3 XRS retractable harnesses and (was going to install a BCF harness bar but with the retractable harnesses it really wouldn’t fit in it without cutting the factory headrest mounts completely off) after holding parts while he tacked and watching him work I’m embarrassed to even call myself a grinder. I letterally had nothing to contribute welding wise. I snapped this pic on my way out of town for a few days but a quick test drive and I’m happier than a hog in mud, I’ll get it cleaned up and painted when I get back but I liked them so much I figured I’d throw them out there for others to see if they were considering retractable harnesses or didn’t know they existed. They take a second or two longer than a standard seatbelt to get into but they allow free movement forward to reach things while keeping you in place with the manual lap belt.

View attachment 92074

I dig it!! I’ve been reluctant on the harness setup due to restricted movement. But this I like!

 

[ohanacreek]

I dig it!! I’ve been reluctant on the harness setup due to restricted movement. But this I like!

Same here, I don’t like the full race type harness. The retractable are better than the standard belt, it has an independent lap belt, and two shoulder belts.

The shoulder belts don’t ride on your shoulders like a static shoulder belt does so there’s no need for a bulky pad and they let you reach the drive/transmission selectors and switches if you have them.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

That damn stick through the floorboard felt like it broke my foot. lol

 

[Neohio]

That damn stick through the floorboard felt like it broke my foot. lol

You got lucky!