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P1000 So how does arched A-arms, wheel offset, forward rake and "built-in lift" effect cage geometry and Center of Gravity?

aleaddict

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Last thing I want to do is take a nose-first soil sample in a brand new P1k5. I'll be riding mostly fire service and logging roads. Closed gates are designated for vehicles 60" or less, although rules up in the PNW are only encouraged and not strictly enforced, at least that's been my experience. YMMV.

So where does the law of diminishing returns kick in with all the whiz-bang geometry we add to our scooters? Is it 1.5" offset? Or 2" offset with 3" lift? Conservative approach would be something like SATV 1.5" off-set arms, but Cfab as some taller arms with slightly longer rake. Wanting to keep my wheel base as close to 60" as possible but don't want to feel top heavy. Thoughts?
 
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Adam490

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Last thing I want to do is take a nose-first soil sample in a brand new P1k5. I'll be riding mostly fire service and logging roads. Closed gates are designated for vehicles 60" or less, although rules up in the PNW are only encouraged and not strictly enforced, at least that's been my experience. IMMV.

So where does the law of diminishing returns kick in with all the whiz-bang geometry we add to our scooters? Is is 1.5" offset? Or 2" offset with 3" lift? Conservative approach would be something like SATV 1.5" off-set arms, but Cfab as some taller arms with slightly longer rake. Wanting to keep my wheel base as close to 60" as possible but don't what to feel top heave. Thoughts?
No lift, forward and rearward raked arms. Only have experience with the satv front/rears but other than the crappy bushings they've been great and I've not been kind to them. I run @RB3offroad 1" spacers in the rear and 5+2 wheels all around. This puts me at +2 on the front because the stock are basically a 6+1. You don't really want to go any taller unless you play in the mud.

PXL 20210327 210120352
 
jeephd1903

jeephd1903

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No lift, forward and rearward raked arms. Only have experience with the satv front/rears but other than the crappy bushings they've been great and I've not been kind to them. I run @RB3offroad 1" spacers in the rear and 5+2 wheels all around. This puts me at +2 on the front because the stock are basically a 6+1. You don't really want to go any taller unless you play in the mud.

View attachment 267586
What size tires? Brand?
 
aleaddict

aleaddict

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Thx @Adam490 for the explanation! I just ordered the @RB3offroad front & rear spacers plus bushings. Will be adding the SATV A-arms and still yet to be determined aftermarket shocks.
 
Ragnar406

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No lift, forward and rearward raked arms. Only have experience with the satv front/rears but other than the crappy bushings they've been great and I've not been kind to them. I run @RB3offroad 1" spacers in the rear and 5+2 wheels all around. This puts me at +2 on the front because the stock are basically a 6+1. You don't really want to go any taller unless you play in the mud.

View attachment 267586
Thx @Adam490 for the explanation! I just ordered the @RB3offroad front & rear spacers plus bushings. Will be adding the SATV A-arms and still yet to be determined aftermarket shocks.
I agree with @Adam490 I ran spacers up front 1" and in the back 2" or 1.5" but i would go no spacers in the front and 1" in the back. Seems that once i went with the spacers that just added more stress and my Tie rod causality's went up quite a bit.
 
Ragnar406

Ragnar406

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Also with the forward a arms and spacers quite a few people (myself included) found that the top A arm frame mount holes started to get oblong. Ended up welding in reinforcements. If you do go with the Super atv a arms I recommend going ahead and ordering a set of garage products bushings - they have lifetime guarantee.
 
aleaddict

aleaddict

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BIG thanks to everyone for the advise and explanation. Last thing I want to do is start breaking parts. First time SxS owner so I'm both amp'd and a little nervous. Picking up the new ride on Friday!
 
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Jason9500

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I too am looking at ordering the SATV forward and rear offset high clearance A arms. Did you guys notice any improvement in front to rear stability as far as climbing a steep hill. I am coming off of a Polaris Ranger Crew with the long wheelbase and I am a little more nervous about tipping backwards with the shorter wheelbase. I am not really interested in lifting it any higher than an inch or two but really like the idea of the SATV a arms giving me a "longer wheelbase". Any thoughts or recommendations if I go this route?

Thanks
 
Adam490

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I too am looking at ordering the SATV forward and rear offset high clearance A arms. Did you guys notice any improvement in front to rear stability as far as climbing a steep hill. I am coming off of a Polaris Ranger Crew with the long wheelbase and I am a little more nervous about tipping backwards with the shorter wheelbase. I am not really interested in lifting it any higher than an inch or two but really like the idea of the SATV a arms giving me a "longer wheelbase". Any thoughts or recommendations if I go this route?

Thanks
Yes, it was noticeable for me even though it's only a slight difference. Front end will still get light on a steeper incline, but the most noticeable thing for me was being able to get up some rock ledges a bit easier after the 3" gain from the front/rear arm swap.
 
J

Jason9500

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Yes, it was noticeable for me even though it's only a slight difference. Front end will still get light on a steeper incline, but the most noticeable thing for me was being able to get up some rock ledges a bit easier after the 3" gain from the front/rear arm swap.
Thanks for the response. That sounds like exactly what situation I am in. I just want to clear some of the rocks without going all out with portal lifts, etc. I have climbed some steep inclines that have made me a little nervous. Like you said, the front end felt light especially when I hit little rocks or bumps on the way up. Never came off the ground but no where near the stability of the Ranger Crew. Guess it will take some getting used to.

Do you think I can get away without all of the heavy duty axle, tie rod, etc upgrades if I just go with the A arms, 1 inch set of taller tires and maybe 1.5" wheel spacers? This is basically a family ride and will not be used to make highlight films for Youtube lol.

Thanks
 
Adam490

Adam490

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Thanks for the response. That sounds like exactly what situation I am in. I just want to clear some of the rocks without going all out with portal lifts, etc. I have climbed some steep inclines that have made me a little nervous. Like you said, the front end felt light especially when I hit little rocks or bumps on the way up. Never came off the ground but no where near the stability of the Ranger Crew. Guess it will take some getting used to.

Do you think I can get away without all of the heavy duty axle, tie rod, etc upgrades if I just go with the A arms, 1 inch set of taller tires and maybe 1.5" wheel spacers? This is basically a family ride and will not be used to make highlight films for Youtube lol.

Thanks
Absolutely. Pick up a few tie-rods and the gear you need to swap one trail side and you'll be fine. If you are sticking with the stock wheels and just going to 28's, I'd skip the wheel spacers. If you watch some of my YouTube videos, or take a look at my build thread, you can see the type of terrain we're riding these in. Not just playing on the fire roads :). As long as you don't pretend it's a rock bouncer and drive within its means, it'll do you just fine. I'd suggest a skidplate as one of your first investments if you are riding anything remotely rocky or trailblazing through brush in the woods.
 
Smitty335

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Absolutely. Pick up a few tie-rods and the gear you need to swap one trail side and you'll be fine. If you are sticking with the stock wheels and just going to 28's, I'd skip the wheel spacers. If you watch some of my YouTube videos, or take a look at my build thread, you can see the type of terrain we're riding these in. Not just playing on the fire roads :). As long as you don't pretend it's a rock bouncer and drive within its means, it'll do you just fine. I'd suggest a skidplate as one of your first investments if you are riding anything remotely rocky or trailblazing through brush in the woods.
What Adam490 said! I'm running 30 inch tires and no spacers, where we ride spacers are bad MO JO, just pick a tree for the ROPS to lean against to keep you from flopping! HA!
 
J

Jason9500

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Thanks for the responses guys. I will check out your build thread Adam and try to find the Youtube videos. Will start will skid plate, A arms, bushings, and bigger tires and see how it does then. Oh, and a couple extra tie rods just in case.

Jason
 
Adam490

Adam490

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Thanks for the responses guys. I will check out your build thread Adam and try to find the Youtube videos. Will start will skid plate, A arms, bushings, and bigger tires and see how it does then. Oh, and a couple extra tie rods just in case.

Jason
I'd recommend these as well if you are going to be upgrading the arms and tires. Easy to weld in your own for much cheaper if you have access to a welder and some steel, but these are drop-in:

 
J

Jason9500

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I'd recommend these as well if you are going to be upgrading the arms and tires. Easy to weld in your own for much cheaper if you have access to a welder and some steel, but these are drop-in:

Thanks for the link. Will definitely get a set of those. Have a welder but not the skills to make them. Your info has been very helpful and probably will save me a lot of headache and $$ which my wife will appreciate!!

Jason
 
aleaddict

aleaddict

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I ordered the Garage Products bushing set for the SATV arms. Gussets are a good idea as well. Trying to take it slowly and not get over my skis. I have a Miller TIG/stick welder but not MIG so having the option of buying prefab'd gussets is cheap insurance.

Just finished spraying the property for dandelions and other nasty herbs. Love the 2" receiver!

IMG 7927
 
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