P500 Stix stopper and frame plugs

[JCart]

Finished up rear stix stoppers and frame plugs today.
Dropbox - P5 mods
You'll have to scroll down in the P5 mods folder, for some reason I don't understand, I couldn't attach pix individually.... Sorry.

Cheers, jrc

 

[Admin]

 

[oldfortyfive]

Please repost the photos. They did not come through. Thank you

 

[Montecresto]

Finished up rear stix stoppers and frame plugs today.
Dropbox - P5 mods
You'll have to scroll down in the P5 mods folder, for some reason I don't understand, I couldn't attach pix individually.... Sorry.

Cheers, jrc

Hey jrc, what's that you have fabricated in frame 23? And I love the stick stoppers in 22. What will you charge to fabricate me a set?

 

[oldfortyfive]

Great ideas. Thank you

 

[JCart]

Hey jrc, what's that you have fabricated in frame 23? And I love the stick stoppers in 22. What will you charge to fabricate me a set?

Image 23 is a rear stix stopper prior to install. They are made from 3mm thick UHMW, some 1/2" aluminum angle and some pop rivets, couple small u-bolts. What I did was pull a rear wheel off and create a cardboard template, transfer to UHMW sheet, cut out with a scroll saw. Pop rivet on the aluminum angle, I had to trim the pop rivets and hammer them shorter once on for a more snug fit to lower A-arm. You'll notice on the main frame where the lower A-arm attaches there are small gussets off the frame the 3mm UHMW fits above the gussets. This effectively attaching stix stopper at the inboard end, I then used 2 small u-bolts on the mid A-arm (lower) cross brace to attach the stix stopper on the outboard end. Using cardboard again for a template and designed the verticals and made v1 as high as practicable, once riveted on the angle (and bottom), marked the u-bolts and attached stix stopper. The verticals want to spread wider when you tighten the u-bolts, so (for now) I attached parachute cord, and applied heat via propane torch to shape them.

These are light weight stix stoppers not really meant for impacting, while crawling over rocks and stumps, but to minimize debris from getting close to CV boots. Problem I anticipate is mud and other fine material, grass seed etc., getting layered up inside, (thus the height) and also put drain holes in the very outboard end. Not sure on the holes and may change once I gets some kilometres on. I've made a set and ran on the front since late last summer and the've worked well albeit you have to watch for build up off ice and frozen mud when the weather turns cold, might twist the CV boots if frozen.

While these are light weight, UHMW is robust material, I really like working with it, much like wood (meaning wood working tools), easy maintenance (none) and incredibly strong. I'm interested to see how much abuse they'll take, I may have to use thicker bottoms like skid thickness material 9.45mm thick, time will tell.

In terms of making to sell, I'll leave that to the experts.
Cheers,
jrc

 

[JCart]

Great ideas. Thank you

You're welcome.

jrc

 

[Montecresto]

Image 23 is a rear stix stopper prior to install. They are made from 3mm thick UHMW, some 1/2" aluminum angle and some pop rivets, couple small u-bolts. What I did was pull a rear wheel off and create a cardboard template, transfer to UHMW sheet, cut out with a scroll saw. Pop rivet on the aluminum angle, I had to trim the pop rivets and hammer them shorter once on for a more snug fit to lower A-arm. You'll notice on the main frame where the lower A-arm attaches there are small gussets off the frame the 3mm UHMW fits above the gussets. This effectively attaching stix stopper at the inboard end, I then used 2 small u-bolts on the mid A-arm (lower) cross brace to attach the stix stopper on the outboard end. Using cardboard again for a template and designed the verticals and made v1 as high as practicable, once riveted on the angle (and bottom), marked the u-bolts and attached stix stopper. The verticals want to spread wider when you tighten the u-bolts, so (for now) I attached parachute cord, and applied heat via propane torch to shape them.

These are light weight stix stoppers not really meant for impacting, while crawling over rocks and stumps, but to minimize debris from getting close to CV boots. Problem I anticipate is mud and other fine material, grass seed etc., getting layered up inside, (thus the height) and also put drain holes in the very outboard end. Not sure on the holes and may change once I gets some kilometres on. I've made a set and ran on the front since late last summer and the've worked well albeit you have to watch for build up off ice and frozen mud when the weather turns cold, might twist the CV boots if frozen.

While these are light weight, UHMW is robust material, I really like working with it, much like wood (meaning wood working tools), easy maintenance (none) and incredibly strong. I'm interested to see how much abuse they'll take, I may have to use thicker bottoms like skid thickness material 9.45mm thick, time will tell.

In terms of making to sell, I'll leave that to the experts.
Cheers,
jrc

How modest of you!!!! I'd sooner have yours, but I suppose I'll settle for the aluminium ones that solrus has promoted. Btw, thanks so much for the detailed instructions for the fab on them. Can you estimate the cost of front and rear pairs? Thanks buddy.

 

[JCart]

How modest of you!!!! I'd sooner have yours, but I suppose I'll settle for the aluminium ones that solrus has promoted. Btw, thanks so much for the detailed instructions for the fab on them. Can you estimate the cost of front and rear pairs? Thanks buddy.

You could do the same thing with aluminum sheeting too, I opted for UHMW as it is nicer to work with (I think), and has more strength, slides over stuff easily (compared to other products like steel, aluminum) and has really no maintenance.

I'm gonna guess you'll need 4 square feet of UHMW for the rear and nuther 3 for the front. 28" of aluminum 1/2" angle for the rear and same for front. Big head pop rivets 20 for rear, 20 for fronts, 4 u-bolts for rears and 2 small bolts for front.

I bought a 4' by 10' 3mm thick sheet (UHMW) along with enough 9.45 mm thick material for skid plate over a year ago now and I wanna say (guessing) it was just under $500.00 CDN. Not sure what UHMW costs now, I know here in CANADA it'll be..... Oh twice the cost compared to lower 48 and guessing 4 times after the wall is built....

If you have basic tools, scroll saw, drill, pop rivet tool it's pretty straight forward to construct. I'd rather buy the tools and fumble something together as it's an opportunity for me to learn, plus I get more tools for other projects.

jrc

 

[Montecresto]

You could do the same thing with aluminum sheeting too, I opted for UHMW as it is nicer to work with (I think), and has more strength, slides over stuff easily (compared to other products like steel, aluminum) and has really no maintenance.

I'm gonna guess you'll need 4 square feet of UHMW for the rear and nuther 3 for the front. 28" of aluminum 1/2" angle for the rear and same for front. Big head pop rivets 20 for rear, 20 for fronts, 4 u-bolts for rears and 2 small bolts for front.

I bought a 4' by 10' 3mm thick sheet (UHMW) along with enough 9.45 mm thick material for skid plate over a year ago now and I wanna say (guessing) it was just under $500.00 CDN. Not sure what UHMW costs now, I know here in CANADA it'll be..... Oh twice the cost compared to lower 48 and guessing 4 times after the wall is built....

If you have basic tools, scroll saw, drill, pop rivet tool it's pretty straight forward to construct. I'd rather buy the tools and fumble something together as it's an opportunity for me to learn, plus I get more tools for other projects.

jrc

To the bolded, you big kidder! No worries, the rational Americans won't allow it, lol. I agree about making ones own. Maybe I'll just wait a bit and then do that. I just dropped 2G in this buggy and a s*** load of hours too. I'm just going to ride for a while. Thanks for the estimate though. I will need both skids and stick stoppers of course eventually. I appreciate your help as always! Oops, just realised you can't see what I bolded, it was the line about the wall.

 

[JCart]

To the bolded, you big kidder! No worries, the rational Americans won't allow it, lol. I agree about making ones own. Maybe I'll just wait a bit and then do that. I just dropped 2G in this buggy and a s*** load of hours too. I'm just going to ride for a while. Thanks for the estimate though. I will need both skids and stick stoppers of course eventually. I appreciate your help as always! Oops, just realised you can't see what I bolded, it was the line about the wall.

No problem, sorry I didn't put a $ value, its just not comparative. In terms of the skids, if you use the stock one as a template it's straight forward with basic hand tools as noted above. I bought some Honda washers (for spares) and counter sunk the 9.45 mm thick UHMW so washers fit flush and don't hang down even used the stock metric bolts. Just don't over tighten the bolts as they are pretty light weight as is the frame side threading. Skill saw works excellent, I use either a wood skill and now primarily use one for metal to cut long straight runs of UHMW. Continue to add to the Milwaukie (sp?) power tool fleet, the 18 volt battery pack ones, they seem to be good value here for reasonable powertools.

Yes I was just joshin about the wall.... thats a whole other discussion and I do have trust in the rational electorate stateside.

I need to put some Kms on mine to try the cab out as well, and ponder door design, it's the hinge integration with existing 1/2 door that's got me puzzled. That and how I can do it without a welder as I don't have one yet... sigh.

jrc

 

[Montecresto]

No problem, sorry I didn't put a $ value, its just not comparative. In terms of the skids, if you use the stock one as a template it's straight forward with basic hand tools as noted above. I bought some Honda washers (for spares) and counter sunk the 9.45 mm thick UHMW so washers fit flush and don't hang down even used the stock metric bolts. Just don't over tighten the bolts as they are pretty light weight as is the frame side threading. Skill saw works excellent, I use either a wood skill and now primarily use one for metal to cut long straight runs of UHMW. Continue to add to the Milwaukie (sp?) power tool fleet, the 18 volt battery pack ones, they seem to be good value here for reasonable powertools.

Yes I was just joshin about the wall.... thats a whole other discussion and I do have trust in the rational electorate stateside.

I need to put some Kms on mine to try the cab out as well, and ponder door design, it's the hinge integration with existing 1/2 door that's got me puzzled. That and how I can do it without a welder as I don't have one yet... sigh.

jrc

I like the skid plate ideas you used. I also like Milwaukee tools, (Rigid is good too). Say, on the doors, every body plans and builds doors incorporating the existing door. I'm curious why no one has considered removing them and fabricating an entire door assembly?? And I knew you were joshing about the wall, it was funny though, and not all the electorate is trustworthy, lol.

 

[Gem99Ultra]

Finished up rear stix stoppers and frame plugs today.
Dropbox - P5 mods
You'll have to scroll down in the P5 mods folder, for some reason I don't understand, I couldn't attach pix individually.... Sorry.

Cheers, jrc

Super looking Bad Boy. You need to establish another name for it other than "Pioneer 500". You have so many mods made on that monster than it should be named a Montecresto 500. I believe it could climb Mount Everest or run down the Marianna Deep.

 

[Seg]

Image 23 is a rear stix stopper prior to install. They are made from 3mm thick UHMW, some 1/2" aluminum angle and some pop rivets, couple small u-bolts. What I did was pull a rear wheel off and create a cardboard template, transfer to UHMW sheet, cut out with a scroll saw. Pop rivet on the aluminum angle, I had to trim the pop rivets and hammer them shorter once on for a more snug fit to lower A-arm. You'll notice on the main frame where the lower A-arm attaches there are small gussets off the frame the 3mm UHMW fits above the gussets. This effectively attaching stix stopper at the inboard end, I then used 2 small u-bolts on the mid A-arm (lower) cross brace to attach the stix stopper on the outboard end. Using cardboard again for a template and designed the verticals and made v1 as high as practicable, once riveted on the angle (and bottom), marked the u-bolts and attached stix stopper. The verticals want to spread wider when you tighten the u-bolts, so (for now) I attached parachute cord, and applied heat via propane torch to shape them.

These are light weight stix stoppers not really meant for impacting, while crawling over rocks and stumps, but to minimize debris from getting close to CV boots. Problem I anticipate is mud and other fine material, grass seed etc., getting layered up inside, (thus the height) and also put drain holes in the very outboard end. Not sure on the holes and may change once I gets some kilometres on. I've made a set and ran on the front since late last summer and the've worked well albeit you have to watch for build up off ice and frozen mud when the weather turns cold, might twist the CV boots if frozen.

While these are light weight, UHMW is robust material, I really like working with it, much like wood (meaning wood working tools), easy maintenance (none) and incredibly strong. I'm interested to see how much abuse they'll take, I may have to use thicker bottoms like skid thickness material 9.45mm thick, time will tell.

In terms of making to sell, I'll leave that to the experts.
Cheers,
jrc

hey JCart, I just had a quote sent to me here in Ottawa, they couldn't get 10 foot lenght so for 3/8 4 X 8 was $580...Ouch!

 

[JCart]

hey JCart, I just had a quote sent to me here in Ottawa, they couldn't get 10 foot lenght so for 3/8 4 X 8 was $580...Ouch!

Try these guys, they may have local office closer then BC, I'm about an hour from them so I drove over and picked up what I needed. Home - Northern Plastics Ltd. - Specialty Industrial Plastic Products

Kind of interesting these products are petro based, you'd think with the lower base price of product (oil), this would be reflected in lower sheet cost.
jrc