P1000 StrongMade 2" Review

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Ride - A - same as OEM
Handling - A - same as OEM
Flex - A - same as OEM
My conclusion is basically it retains all the benefits of the OEM ride quality but adds ground clearance.
The retained lateral stability I will give to Honda. I assumed it would feel a little more tippy due to (2) things:
1 - raising COG
2 - track width narrowing 1/2" due to A-Arms being at a steeper angle....
It did not "feel" more tippy as I pushed it pretty good yesterday and today. I credit this to Honda's wide stance, obviously not StrongMade doing anything on their parr as it's just a simple lower mount bracket lift.
Pretty cool. These things are the Hummer of the SxS world. Point and go. Give it hell and it'll climb or run over just about anything.
IMG 20160731 073555842 TOP
IMG 20160731 074228054
IMG 20160731 074404450
IMG 20160731 074423313
 
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Decided to climb the mountain and make my own trail. Went over a landmine of downed trees and limbs. These 6ply stock tires are not too bad. Also ran over some bowling ball crushed limestone with no cuts. I'll take it.
IMG 20160731 080819705 HDR
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IMG 20160731 080128806
 
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Hondasxs

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Nice..
Thanks for the info and pictures.
I enjoyed the Strongmade on my 700 and have been eyeballing it for my 1000.
But my issue is overall heigth. I only have a few inches and after a lift and tires I start to be concerned.
Tires are first, then lift if there is any room left.
 
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Nice..
Thanks for the info and pictures.
I enjoyed the Strongmade on my 700 and have been eyeballing it for my 1000.
But my issue is overall heigth. I only have a few inches and after a lift and tires I start to be concerned.
Tires are first, then lift if there is any room left.
Ya, when I add tires I'll be questionable getting it into my shop. I'll have to size them based on whatever I have left. I should have a couple inches so I'll probably good good to go with 28-30's.
 
CumminsPusher

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I love that top picture! It's cool to see the suspension crossed up. I'm surprised you say it feels the same to you. I wonder how much difference there is between strong lift and the shock spacers? I'm going to have to figure out what we are going to do I want a small lift but it's already pretty high.


Sent from iPhone
Check out this pic of the rear flex with the sway bar still connected.
IMG 20160731 073616692
 
CumminsPusher

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I like those pics. I can't really get too many for some reason. Last weekend we rode with another p1k and I chose to follow a lot just to watch the suspension move around. I've only got one that I liked but it wasn't a clear shot 00ef8b05b744768c374283c4e294f89b I think down the road I might try the strong made set. I really want front shocks and they usually have a light lift but they are so expensive. I'm sure I'll leave the rear alone but it still needs lift. Does your back end still work the same


Sent from iPhone
 
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I like those pics. I can't really get too many for some reason. Last weekend we rode with another p1k and I chose to follow a lot just to watch the suspension move around. I've only got one that I liked but it wasn't a clear shot View attachment 19354 I think down the road I might try the strong made set. I really want front shocks and they usually have a light lift but they are so expensive. I'm sure I'll leave the rear alone but it still needs lift. Does your back end still work the same


Sent from iPhone
Yes. All works same. I was surprised the rear flexed as it good as it did, esp. with the sway bar hooked up.
 
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CumminsPusher

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Ive thought about pulling it just to see what it feels like but something tells me this is too heavy a rig. I'm glad the rear end still works good that gives me a push for a lift


Sent from iPhone
 
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joeymt33

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Ive thought about pulling it just to see what it feels like but something tells me this is too heavy a rig. I'm glad the rear end still works good that gives me a push for a lift


Sent from iPhone


If I can come up with a quick disconnect system, I wouldn't mind it then.

I don't think it's smart to remove the sway bar on something that can run 60+mph.

However, for slow technical trails, it could be an advantage.
 
CumminsPusher

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I agree fully! I'm not wanting to test it with a loaded vehicle at 60. Be nice to have an electronic disconnect like the jeep kits


Sent from iPhone
 
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Chipper

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@500 when you get a chance can you get an exact height measurement please, I am also concerned with getting in garage...
 
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And also why did you get the strong made vs the highlifter???
Specifically due to it keeping the coil overs at factory angles. The more vertical they become, such as with HL lifts as well as others like SuperATV like I had on my Wolverine, they will stiffen up the ride as it's easier to compress a spring from an offset than directly. Also, if you took a coil over from an inward 20° tilt to perfectly vertical as an example, you'd lose some travel - simple geometry. However, from what I've read, and I'm sure it's due to the weight of the machine and stock coil overs, the HL on these units doesn't have a noticeable negative effect on the ride like my 1100# Wolverine had (though it kinda needed it in some cases as the stock setup was soft). Many have the HL and love it. I am just too picky ab some things and knowing I've lost .8" of travel would bother me. I'd love for someone who has the time and will to do the geometry to figure out exactly what the HL loses in travel. May only be like .3", who knows.
Best way to describe it is if you have a shock with a 3" stroke and you compress it vertically, it will have 3" of travel. If you connect it to an A Arm and lay it at 35°, the arm will travel at a greater distance than the stroke on the shock giving more travel. Once the shock travels the full 3", the a arm may have traveled 6.5". You may have already known this though...
 
Carleton

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Does anyone know how much this actually lifts the unit vs the highlifter? The reason I'm asking is because I don't want to stiffen the rear at all but wouldn't mind stiffening the front just a bit and having the arched arms. So I'm thinking about putting the Strongmade on the rear to maintain standard stiffness and shock angles, and putting the HL in the front to have the arched forward arms and stiffen the front just a bit (the front has more standard travel by about 1/2 inch)..

Thoughts?
 
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Does anyone know how much this actually lifts the unit vs the highlifter? The reason I'm asking is because I don't want to stiffen the rear at all but wouldn't mind stiffening the front just a bit and having the arched arms. So I'm thinking about putting the Strongmade on the rear to maintain standard stiffness and shock angles, and putting the HL in the front to have the arched forward arms and stiffen the front just a bit (the front has more standard travel by about 1/2 inch)..

Thoughts?
I actually debated the same scenario so that I could run the HL arched arms, and I believe this set up would be an excellent idea. The HL gives about .5" more lift on the front from my research. I may convert to this in the future, but for now I'm good as I have already bit the bullet on the A-Arm guards for the OEM arms.
 
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Carleton

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I actually debated the same scenario so that I could run the HL arched arms, and I believe this set up would be an excellent idea. The HL gives about .5" more lift on the front from my research. I may convert to this in the future, but for now I'm good as I have already bit the bullet on the A-Arm guards for the OEM arms.


Thanks for the info.. Seems like a good idea and from everything I've read, it sounds like the HL is probably a bit higher. I don't know that I would want the front up much more than the rear as it might cause you to wheelie more uphill with 5 passengers.
 
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