Talon CV boot question - in a van down by the river.

SpeedBuggy

SpeedBuggy

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Yesterday after work while out on a ride I ended up getting my Talon stuck in the Carbon River in WA. It was at a crossing I have made several times and for some reason, this time it sank like a stone into the rocks in over waist-deep, fast-moving current. The rocks and silt closed in around the inside and the outside of my rear tires and rims like quicksand. Long story short it took all my recovery gear and winch line to haul it out. Damage from the rocks churning is a bent caliper bracket, rotor, CV boot, and my Method rims are hammered with rock scratches and dings from hub to bead. I would post some pics but my phone floated away along with my gloves, two soft shackles, and registration. The ride home was uneventful and overall a great outing other than mild hypothermia.

My question is can I replace the torn boot and regrease the outer CV joint? The axel doesn't appear to be damaged. I'll do a more thorough inspection tonight once I clean it up as we ended up back late last night.
 
Rambo

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Yesterday after work while out on a ride I ended up getting my Talon stuck in the Carbon River in WA. It was at a crossing I have made several times and for some reason, this time it sank like a stone into the rocks in over waist-deep, fast-moving current. The rocks and silt closed in around the inside and the outside of my rear tires and rims like quicksand. Long story short it took all my recovery gear and winch line to haul it out. Damage from the rocks churning is a bent caliper bracket, rotor, CV boot, and my Method rims are hammered with rock scratches and dings from hub to bead. I would post some pics but my phone floated away along with my gloves, two soft shackles, and registration. The ride home was uneventful and overall a great outing other than mild hypothermia.

My question is can I replace the torn boot and regrease the outer CV joint? The axel doesn't appear to be damaged. I'll do a more thorough inspection tonight once I clean it up as we ended up back late last night.
Sounds like a boot is all you need. I had to replace one after my first trip out. I suggest coughing up the pennies for an OEM boot.I tried to use a aftermarket one size fits all, won't do that again.
 
PaulF

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Yesterday after work while out on a ride I ended up getting my Talon stuck in the Carbon River in WA. It was at a crossing I have made several times and for some reason, this time it sank like a stone into the rocks in over waist-deep, fast-moving current. The rocks and silt closed in around the inside and the outside of my rear tires and rims like quicksand. Long story short it took all my recovery gear and winch line to haul it out. Damage from the rocks churning is a bent caliper bracket, rotor, CV boot, and my Method rims are hammered with rock scratches and dings from hub to bead. I would post some pics but my phone floated away along with my gloves, two soft shackles, and registration. The ride home was uneventful and overall a great outing other than mild hypothermia.

My question is can I replace the torn boot and regrease the outer CV joint? The axel doesn't appear to be damaged. I'll do a more thorough inspection tonight once I clean it up as we ended up back late last night.
Pull it apart, clean all the grease/water/dirt off and give it a good inspection. If there are no pits/scars/gouges, get an OEM boot kit (comes with grease) and put it back together. If not, you will need a new joint. You didn't say if it was inner, outer, front or rear but it looks like if needed, you can buy an inner joint (front or rear) separate but to get an outer, you will have to purchase an entire axle.

Word of advise, you will need a strong, professional pair of clamp pliers to use the OEM band clamps. A cheap pair from HF or the auto parts store pliers will not work, they will bend before you get the clamp tightened.
 
SpeedBuggy

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Pull it apart, clean all the grease/water/dirt off and give it a good inspection. If there are no pits/scars/gouges, get an OEM boot kit (comes with grease) and put it back together. If not, you will need a new joint. You didn't say if it was inner, outer, front or rear but it looks like if needed, you can buy an inner joint (front or rear) separate but to get an outer, you will have to purchase an entire axle.

Word of advise, you will need a strong, professional pair of clamp pliers to use the OEM band clamps. A cheap pair from HF or the auto parts store pliers will not work, they will bend before you get the clamp tightened.
Thanks for the advice. It is the left rear outer and I have a mechanic buddy with the special pliers. He actually was with me when we got stuck. Was supposed to be a quick ride before we ran the scanner on my car for a check engine light. Even the bad rides are good times.
 
GBell

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The kit is around $60 for both. You don't need to take the inner off to replace the outer! Tap the outer knuckle with a dead blow hammer it will come off the shaft guaranteed i just did mine!
 
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GBell

GBell

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The kit is around $60 for both. You don't need to take the inner off to replace the outer! Tap the outer knuckle with a dead blow hammer it will come off the shaft guaranteed i just did mine!
Be sure when you go back together with it that you start the round wire clip into the splines with a pocket screwdriver!
 
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SpeedBuggy

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Thanks I got it all done a couple weeks ago. The kit was great and came with everything including new C clips. I’ve been out on several rides and not leaking. Appreciate everyone’s advice.
 
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SpeedBuggy

SpeedBuggy

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Pull it apart, clean all the grease/water/dirt off and give it a good inspection. If there are no pits/scars/gouges, get an OEM boot kit (comes with grease) and put it back together. If not, you will need a new joint. You didn't say if it was inner, outer, front or rear but it looks like if needed, you can buy an inner joint (front or rear) separate but to get an outer, you will have to purchase an entire axle.

Word of advise, you will need a strong, professional pair of clamp pliers to use the OEM band clamps. A cheap pair from HF or the auto parts store pliers will not work, they will bend before you get the clamp tightened.
Is there a brand or set of pliers you would recommend? I bought 2 different pairs from auto parts stores and broke both on the outer large clamps. They were a b****. I see this as a tool I should have a good one of.
 
PaulF

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Is there a brand or set of pliers you would recommend? I bought 2 different pairs from auto parts stores and broke both on the outer large clamps. They were a b****. I see this as a tool I should have a good one of.
Not sure, probably something like this...

I couldn't find a tool locally so I threw the Honda clamp in the trash after bending the hell out of my one and only (cheap) tool and put on one of those easy band clamps from O'reilly's that doesn't take a $60 Snap-On tool to crimp. I like the band clamps better anyway, they don't have a tenancy to "kink" the boot and leak. Been fine for over 2000 miles.
 
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SpeedBuggy

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Here’s my wheels. Machine is clean. Rocks hammered all the way up to the lug nuts
E7FEF7F9 5C9A 47E1 A031 4C7022224314
B25741BA A402 4821 B614 443F28BF095C
C322B826 F454 4522 9C65 40A1BC369188
 
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SpeedBuggy

SpeedBuggy

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Not sure if it’s paint or anodized but the finish didn’t hold up. Or the spokes if you zoom in. I’m kinda hard on s*** so just gonna run em.
 
SpeedBuggy

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I think the wheel spacers let bigger rocks in around the caliper and rotor contributing to the damage and stuck.. I’ve considered taking them off but they even the track with 5+2 all the way around.
 
H

HondaTech

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Not sure, probably something like this...

I couldn't find a tool locally so I threw the Honda clamp in the trash after bending the hell out of my one and only (cheap) tool and put on one of those easy band clamps from O'reilly's that doesn't take a $60 Snap-On tool to crimp. I like the band clamps better anyway, they don't have a tenancy to "kink" the boot and leak. Been fine for over 2000 miles.

You can buy those pliers from Lisle for $30 as well.

Honda has a pair from Oetiker that work killer but I haven't been able to find them in the wild. Only place I know where to get them is through Honda special tools.
 
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Neohio

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You can buy those pliers from Lisle for $30 as well.

Honda has a pair from Oetiker that work killer but I haven't been able to find them in the wild. Only place I know where to get them is through Honda special tools.
Share a pic of them. They are more than likely rebranded Knipex or similar.
 
H

HondaTech

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Share a pic of them. They are more than likely rebranded Knipex or similar.

Oetiker is the manufacturer of alot of those type or clamps and the 1 use pinch clamps. These pliers are directly from them, I've looked for a similar pair everywhere. There are other pairs that work but this pair happens to work the best.

OET14100393
 
Neohio

Neohio

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Yep, I tried to find those. I couldn't find them except by the Honda PN.
 
Lil_Steve

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Honda has a pair from Oetiker that work killer but I haven't been able to find them in the wild. Only place I know where to get them is through Honda special tools.

Can this pair be ordered through a Honda dealer? My Knipex worked fine for the bigger clamps but I don't have anything capable of working on the smaller shaft clamps, that one is tough to get pinched properly.
 
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SpeedBuggy

SpeedBuggy

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I used these on the small clamps when the special pliers broke
E46D90C7 159B 482A A6DB FDC391C9907E
 
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