Rear CV Noise

[prostreet66mustang]

Replacing a noisy CV Joint. Picture of stock Honda axle that had 5000 miles on it with out any problem or noise. Then went to ST got ripped of on springs and they added 1 1/2" of ride height. This is where all started. As I have went through about ever axle out there and have the pill to show it. The Honda axles are the best out there hands down. It is when you start adding more angle to them that you will get the noise. 20 degrees + a couple but if you get to 25 degrees that is too much. Find somewhere you can run hard for about 20min. then check temp of the inside CV. I saw 347degrees. In the picture hard to see the outer race has the same 1/8" groves. Just my thoughts.

 

[Admin]

 

[highpocket74]

My 19 Talon with 2800 miles is basically stock and my original CV joints are popping with any turn.

 

[Smitty335]

Replacing a noisy CV Joint. Picture of stock Honda axle that had 5000 miles on it with out any problem or noise. Then went to ST got ripped of on springs and they added 1 1/2" of ride height. This is where all started. As I have went through about ever axle out there and have the pill to show it. The Honda axles are the best out there hands down. It is when you start adding more angle to them that you will get the noise. 20 degrees + a couple but if you get to 25 degrees that is too much. Find somewhere you can run hard for about 20min. then check temp of the inside CV. I saw 347degrees. In the picture hard to see the outer race has the same 1/8" groves. Just my thoughts.

View attachment 413464

Always set ride height and don't increase the angle of your axels. At full droop the axels should be ok because there not there very long.

 

[hondabob]

My 2019 Talon R axles popped on turns until they warmed up after a few miles. I go slow on turns during warmup. The popping nearly quit at about 25,000 miles and are still ok at a bit over 40,000 miles. My 2020 Talon R is close to 9,000 miles and the rear axles popped during warmup, so I go slow on turns. It's worse after sitting for a couple of weeks. Both have increased ride height with upgraded suspension.

 

[hondabob]

My buddy has a 2023 Talon R live valve and I'm buying the 4-seat Talon R model on Friday or Saturday. Both have the rear shock cross over rings set way too low so the low-speed wash board ride sucks. It is way better after I moved his cross over rings up a few inches. The ride height is too low so I will check the axle popping on turns during warm up before and after I increase the ground clearance around 2 inches.

 

[CID]

I would think that the lower a Talon sits (to a point) would be better for a decreased CV angle resulting in less strain. Once the axle is horizontal, the CV angle would be as low as possible. A slow turn, to listen for clicking would be lowest with the axles close to horizontal which is nowhere near close to expected engineered geometry. I think my axles measured ~16* when ground clearance was set to spec, if I remember correctly.

I'm in the middle of replacing my second rear inner CV, both were clicking but I replaced them because both had started leaking grease, so I had to replace the boot and I'm not doing that without replacing the CV - unless I happen to tear the boot early in a CV's life, and I'd probably replace it anyway.

fwiw: the LR got replaced at 81xx miles and the RR is at 12,923. I don't know why the LR boot started leaking but I got bound up under power causing the RR problem.

 

[Dankathy]

I get lots of clicking/popping in turns

I would think that the lower a Talon sits (to a point) would be better for a decreased CV angle resulting in less strain. Once the axle is horizontal, the CV angle would be as low as possible. A slow turn, to listen for clicking would be lowest with the axles close to horizontal which is nowhere near close to expected engineered geometry. I think my axles measured ~16* when ground clearance was set to spec, if I remember correctly.

I'm in the middle of replacing my second rear inner CV, both were clicking but I replaced them because both had started leaking grease, so I had to replace the boot and I'm not doing that without replacing the CV - unless I happen to tear the boot early in a CV's life, and I'd probably replace it anyway.

fwiw: the LR got replaced at 81xx miles and the RR is at 12,923. I don't know why the LR boot started leaking but I got bound up under power causing the RR problem.

I get lots of clicking/popping in turns on hard surfaces warm or cold. I have lots of radius rod joints that have play in them, don't know if the binding and slipping of the tires causes them to bang around making the noise. Have never heard the popping when going straight, so not sure it's from cvs. For the price difference I'm very sure that if I end up keeping this machine i will replace both axles complete rather than ever do another cv

 

[CID]

I get lots of clicking/popping in turns

I get lots of clicking/popping in turns on hard surfaces warm or cold. I have lots of radius rod joints that have play in them, don't know if the binding and slipping of the tires causes them to bang around making the noise. Have never heard the popping when going straight, so not sure it's from cvs. For the price difference I'm very sure that if I end up keeping this machine i will replace both axles complete rather than ever do another cv

For anyone following along -
1. I just paid $195 for an inner CV and boot kit (all 4 are the same on a Talon). This was from the dealer -15%.
2. Ron Ayers sells the complete rear axle including both CVs for $233. So, for another $38 I could have got a new axle and both CVs.
3. Note that Honda doesn't sell complete axle assemblies, you buy an axle which comes with the outer CV installed and buy the inner CV separately, you have to assemble them. Note that this means you'll need a way to cinch those damnable bands - again, I have to pay the dealer to do it because the proper Oetiker pliers are ~$300. (and difficult to find in the USA)
4. The Honda axles are reputed to be the best you can buy, the aftermarket doesn't measure up ... yet, if they ever will.
5. I just ordered 2 complete axles, a front and a rear, so I'd have spares, again from the dealer minus 15% = $641.74 -- Ron Ayers price was $523.53, so I got stung for $118 but I want my dealer to stay in business, so I'll eat that difference. Not sure how long I'll remain 'stupid' but for now ...
6. The left and right side use the same axle/CV, the fronts and rears aren't the same - IOW, to have a spare, you'll need one front and one rear.

 

[Dankathy]

Dang, didn't understand they don't come assembled. Yet more motivation to sell it

 

[CID]

Dang, didn't understand they don't come assembled. Yet more motivation to sell it

Again, for the curious - an internet guy named Russel shows how to replace the inner CV, including part numbers for everything, including the uber expensive Oetiker pliers. If you can work a hammer and pliers, anyone can do this. Note that it's not as fun as opening Christmas presents but ...

Russel's video is linked in this post along with my photos learning how to do this the first time. HondaTech got a laugh out of me using pipe clamps to pull the axle together but I used it again for the second time because the new CV is so tight that I didn't know if I could get it back together once everything was full of grease.

What did you do to/with your Talon today?

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