Traded ‘21 P700D for ‘24 P1000 D5

[Mopower58]

Welcome from Mississippi and Congrats!
#NTC

 

[Admin]

 

[NevadaCC]

What I have noticed is that it seems the front axle and tires are farther forward on the 2024 P1000 in front of the front bumper and it makes a huge difference on the big rock ledges and ruts because we aren't hitting the skid plate in front and underneath so much like in our 21 P700. Not sure if this is a redesign or just a difference in the bigger Pioneer, but it makes so many obstacles that were very challenging before almost easy now with an incredible approach angle. In fact we have been running all of the same trails on the 24 1000 as our 21 700 and have not hit a skid once...that is a huge difference...seems like more than just 1 1/2" extra clearance is going on as our 700 had plenty of dents in the plates from those trails!!

I am a little bummed we didn't get a 'Trail' version of the 1000, but they just haven't been available in my neck of the woods for a long time. Mostly I just would have liked a winch already installed, we had to buy one and haven't installed it yet and I would have liked the better shocks for sure, however lowering the psi in the tires really makes a massive difference as well. Everything is very rocky here, we haven't been able to go over 30mph it's just that technical everywhere we ride. But 30mpn in the 700 was sort of scary, whereas the 1000 is just hitting it's stride lol....

Anyway, many of the trails and obstacles that were very challenging to us on the 700 are almost too easy now ha ha!!!

 

[Backwoods]

Look into the Rough Country shocks for it. I’ve heard nothing but good things and at a better price point. @Mudwisel has got them

 

[Mudwisel]

Look into the Rough Country shocks for it. I’ve heard nothing but good things and at a better price point. @Mudwisel has got them

Just for the record I do not have the rough country shocks. I did not want the digressive valving. Yes they will be better than stock. Most anything is. But they are fine for the price point and people do like them. I really like the Bandit shocks. Yes different price point and it really is about what your expectations are. I really like their valving profile. Jackyl has them also. Depending on what you can budget the RC will be an improvement over stock and worth the 700 dollars. If you can afford more to me it is a no brainer for much improved valving profile and much higher quality IMO. I have them on both sxs . They are even my choice over the elka I had on previously

 

[NevadaCC]

I looked up the Bandits and they are affordable for us.

Can I get the package of four for the P1000-5 Deluxe? Seems strange the price isn't much higher than just the 2 shock package.

 

[Mudwisel]

I looked up the Bandits and they are affordable for us.

Can I get the package of four for the P1000-5 Deluxe? Seems strange the price isn't much higher than just the 2 shock package.

I would order the bandit stage 4 . The others offered are the elka stage one and stage 2. The bandits are IMO just as good in quality and performance at a much better price

 

[NevadaCC]

Is it easy to change out the shocks?

I am not the one who does this stuff, my husband would and he is handy, but not a mechanic!

Also, how hard is it to set the dampening on these adjustable shocks? I have adjustable shocks on my mountain bike and hardly every adjust them anymore lol...

 

[TxDoc]

The people with these shocks, that are on the forum, can tell you how to adjust the shocks correctly, and probably have a video or there are some on YouTube.

Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

 

[Mudwisel]

Is it easy to change out the shocks?

I am not the one who does this stuff, my husband would and he is handy, but not a mechanic!

Also, how hard is it to set the dampening on these adjustable shocks? I have adjustable shocks on my mountain bike and hardly every adjust them anymore lol...

Start with your settings in the middle.

 

[CID]

Thanks for the welcome!

...

It looks like the low gear setting is for 5mph and under only which limits its use a bit.

Welcome from the once great state of Colorado.

There's low gear and low range, low gear can be used in both high range and low range. (as can all 6 gears and reverse)

Low range is good for speeds from 1 to ~25 mph. High range is good from 1 to ~65 mph.

Since much of your riding is technical, you'll spend that time in low range and still have all 6 gears available but a lower top speed (which you don't care much about).

Not trying to be condescending, I just don't know what you know about the use of Low and High range.

I’m not sure if it’s the clutch, transmission or throttle lol. It’s a bit below 10mph around 7 or 8 mph, too fast for low gear, but seems to be too low revs for high gear to hold steady. Shifts gears back and forth, seems to sputter and lunge a bit.

It did seem improved on our last ride at about 10 hours and 75 miles of use. Also, lowering the tires to 16 psi helped immensely, maybe just not getting bounced around so much and seat covers helped sliding around on seat, keeping foot steady.

It sounds to me like you were in High Range and should have been in Low Range.

I think the P1K is spec'd at 14/15 pounds of tire pressure, so, at 16 pounds, you're still a bit over. You'll have to experiment with that for a couple of reasons - 1. No beadlock rims, so you can't run 'real low' pressures (risk of debeading). 2. Lots of rocks with lower pressures could cause a pinch flat. This depends entirely on how aggressively you ride - 1. casually will allow lower tire pressures for a better ride. 2. higher speeds will require higher tire pressures to prevent pinch flats. Highly recommend getting a spare tire ASAP if you want to try lower tire pressures. I ran 12 lbs. without beadlocks and that's as low as I was comfortable with as a solo rider (not in a P1K but similar weight machine). Others have run 8 lbs without beadlocks and had no problems, that's completely dependent on your riding style.

Is it easy to change out the shocks?

...

Yes, easy, each shock has one upper and one lower bolt, all you'll need is a way to jack up the buggy to take the load off the bolts.

 

[NevadaCC]

Hey thanks for the information! I really appreciate it!

So here is the thing about the 'Low Range"....I looked it up in the owners manual and it said to use it only up to 5mph at consistent speeds?!?!

So yeah, its almost useless for cruising over rough terrain unless your going up very steep and rocky, rutty 4wd type terrain...that's all I've used it for when I read about the 5mph.

What am I missing?

I haven't had the 100 mile first tune-up completed yet, so I really wanted to be careful about revving the engine massively in 'Low Range'. Btw, my husband is sorta pissy about the needing the valves adjusted...he didn't realize that and because it's out of his comfort zone we have to pay massive $$$ for the first tune-up. I owned a Honda Accord for 25 years that would never stop running so I sorta accepted the valve adjustment issue with Honda, but it is super expensive to do that after just buying it.

Yes, the clutch or throttle or something is sort of lunging and unhappy around 8mp just driving down a rough dirt road. I've tried the Sport mode and MT, but it just isn't happy in any mode at about 8mph or less so much of the time. I am now trying to keep it at 10mph to avoid it, but that's not always possible on the roads around here, this is serious 4wd country. My husband even said he wished he could put a cruise control on it so we could keep it out of 'unhappy' speed.

The tires, yeah...I wouldn't mind lowering the psi even further because the dry DG plus slippery granite under it can need a lot of grip sometimes...but we are still waiting on the spare tire...it's taking forever after ordering it

Welcome from the once great state of Colorado.

There's low gear and low range, low gear can be used in both high range and low range. (as can all 6 gears and reverse)

Low range is good for speeds from 1 to ~25 mph. High range is good from 1 to ~65 mph.

Since much of your riding is technical, you'll spend that time in low range and still have all 6 gears available but a lower top speed (which you don't care much about).

Not trying to be condescending, I just don't know what you know about the use of Low and High range.


It sounds to me like you were in High Range and should have been in Low Range.

I think the P1K is spec'd at 14/15 pounds of tire pressure, so, at 16 pounds, you're still a bit over. You'll have to experiment with that for a couple of reasons - 1. No beadlock rims, so you can't run 'real low' pressures (risk of debeading). 2. Lots of rocks with lower pressures could cause a pinch flat. This depends entirely on how aggressively you ride - 1. casually will allow lower tire pressures for a better ride. 2. higher speeds will require higher tire pressures to prevent pinch flats. Highly recommend getting a spare tire ASAP if you want to try lower tire pressures. I ran 12 lbs. without beadlocks and that's as low as I was comfortable with as a solo rider (not in a P1K but similar weight machine). Others have run 8 lbs without beadlocks and had no problems, that's completely dependent on your riding style.

Yes, easy, each shock has one upper and one lower bolt, all you'll need is a way to jack up the buggy to take the load off the bolts.

 

[CID]

Hey thanks for the information! I really appreciate it!

So here is the thing about the 'Low Range"....I looked it up in the owners manual and it said to use it only up to 5mph at consistent speeds?!?!

So yeah, its almost useless for cruising over rough terrain unless your going up very steep and rocky, rutty 4wd type terrain...that's all I've used it for when I read about the 5mph.

What am I missing?

...

I think you misread something, Low Range is good for ~30 mph in 6th gear. Watch your tachometer, it'll stay at a low rpm, even in low range, up to ~30 and you can 'paddle up' anytime you want. If you're going too slow for the next gear, the software won't let you do it so feel free to try it a few times. I'm constantly using the up paddle to short shift and keep the rpm down.

 

[CID]

PS - the 100 mile valve check is the lawyer clause. I had the stealership do the first service and they really gouged me for it but I wanted that warranty 'assurance'.

 

[NevadaCC]

I just went and looked at the owner manual again and it says to use the Low Range when driving at a constant low speed of 5mph or less.

I think that makes it almost useless except for tough 4wd up inclines or when I weed drag with it.

Is this another silly instruction they put in there to cover their buns if something goes wrong?

 

[CID]

I just went and looked at the owner manual again and it says to use the Low Range when driving at a constant low speed of 5mph or less.

I think that makes it almost useless except for tough 4wd up inclines or when I weed drag with it.

Is this another silly instruction they put in there to cover their buns if something goes wrong?

Could someone with a newer P1K confirm this, plz? This sounds insane to me but Honda has done some insane things, so there's that. I'm in Low Range any time my speeds will be under 30, any twisty or steep trail. I should also note that I have a Talon, not a Pioneer 1000 but they aren't all that different ... are they?

 

[Mudwisel]

This is what I was told when I first got my P1K for riding in the hills. Unless you need low to crawl just use high but manual shift. That seemed to be easier on the transmission. This was coming from someone with a lot of experience with the DCT transmission in the hills of Tennessee