P1000 Under seat fan Fail

CJQuig

CJQuig

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My wire loom wrapped around drive shaft and tore off plastic boot, is this a big repair ?

IMG 4690
 
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Remington

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Wrong forum?
It’s the right for him you just gotta be patient or reply lol

I was going to say I guess you’ll learn how to zip tie and secure that wire loom a lot better next time lol
But as for the repair, I believe you have to remove the driveshaft to put a new boot back on if they sell it separately? Not sure if that booth is permanently attached to that shaft? You will have to contact the dealer to find that out. But definitely will have to remove or disconnect the driveshaft in order to repair the boot. But you’ll find out if you start to take it off.
 
slowdryrider

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This isn't a very nice job to do, there isn't very much wiggle room at all .Removing the shaft requires you to remove the floor . Then unbolt the front diff and move it ahead and in my case I removed mine so that I could replace the front pinion seal at the same time. So the front axles had to be pulled plus all the wiring plugs and the front diff shift cables etc: Have fun.
 
Vikes79

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My wire loom wrapped around drive shaft and tore off plastic boot, is this a big repair ?

View attachment 440570
I had something similar happen to my P1k5 a few years ago on a trip to the Black Hills.

What happened on mine was that my heater ducting worked its way loose and the drive shaft wrapped the whole works up and tore out the subtrans case seal on the drive shaft.

Sorry for the bad news, you have to pull the bumper off, pull the winch if you have one, then remove the bolts on the front differential so it can move forward. This will let you pop out the drive shaft. You’ll want to drop the skid plate as well.

This is why I don’t advise running that flimsy poor air flowing ductwork to the dash…it doesn’t work worth a crap, and can get wrapped up in the driveline…
 
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DRZRon1

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My wire loom wrapped around drive shaft and tore off plastic boot, is this a big repair ?

View attachment 440570
since ur kinda screwed on this - may wanna try those cv split boot kits - I haven't ever used one - but may be worth a shot - if that u joint is grazeable - that would be an advantage as well to keep it freshened up every now and then

other than that - pull and replace the boot
 
Hello_Darkness

Hello_Darkness

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This isn't a very nice job to do, there isn't very much wiggle room at all .Removing the shaft requires you to remove the floor . Then unbolt the front diff and move it ahead and in my case I removed mine so that I could replace the front pinion seal at the same time. So the front axles had to be pulled plus all the wiring plugs and the front diff shift cables etc: Have fun.

The floor can stay in
 
Scoop

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What happened on mine was that my heater ducting worked its way loose and the drive shaft wrapped the whole works up and tore out the subtrans case seal on the drive shaft.
That's exactly why I went with a dash mounted Ice Crusher heater in my P1K5 instead of a design that requires you to run the duct tubes from under the seat up front to the dash.
 
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Remington

Remington

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That's exactly why I went with a dash mounted Ice Crusher heater in my P1K5 instead of a design that requires you to run the duct tubes from under the seat up front to the dash.
Thats why you guys arent HVAC guys. Got to know the tricks of the trade😉
 
Remington

Remington

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That flimsy assed plastic duct crap ain't no sheet metal or B-vent!
Thats my whole point😉
But you can make flimsy stuff work right without those issues with a like HVAC equipment and tricks of the trade. We deal with flex duct all the time. Just got to know to run it or it wont work right and things get F’d up.
 
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